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Wow. Talk about a bad day, hope you get to feeling better soon.

I finally got around to snapin a few pics of my setup. I used some 3/4" parker pushlok for my isolation between the hard pipe and the compressor.

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The worst thing is my grass is almost knee high and no one to mow it !

Nerve block is starting to look good right now ...


I need to run my hard line , probably run 3/4" to the back for the blast cabinet then branch off with 1/2" to my little machine shop in the back and up front go with 3/4" for the air tools and outside blasting. Probably 75 feet of 3/4" and 30 feet of 1/2". I should put a couple of drops somewhere in the 50' run to the back of the shop.
 
I've seen a number of articles where people used plastic pipe for their runs. Less expensive and quick to assemble. Rated for 300 or 400 lbs of pressure. But you guys have more expierence at this stuff than I do.
 
Allen,
I have used PVC in the past. it is easy to work with... However I have learned that it is a potential hazard. It may "explode" and fragment if damaged. Kind of like destroying a flourscent light tube. I have not researched the oil compatibility issue/s either..

I am currently shopless.
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and just use my air hose.

I am getting closer though, been clearing land and leveling a platform.

Cheers
Dudley
Allen I will most likely use steel pipe in the new shop.
 
Dudley...understand fragment statement...have seen what happens to it when full of water and freezes. Makes a real nastey weapon!
 
Steel pipe also cools the air to help condense the airborne moisture to allow a trap to catch it.
 
Black iron pipe isn't too extensive about $10 for an eight foot chunck. I just bought a stick or two a week till I had enough. All the rest of the fittings were recycled (garbage) from work, although I had to buy a few unions and strut clamps. Iron is pretty easy to thread for the most part.

One worked on plastic.......DONT DO IT! Someones gonna get hurt.
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imho
 
Just don't use galvanized....The galvanizing leaves flakes that get in the threads, it'll seal at low pressure, but the joints'll sizzle at 175 PSI (voice of experience)
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(Chinese fittings don't help, either)
 
Allen
you could get flamed.
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You may have hi-jacked Kentucks thread.
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Cheers
Dudley
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Here's what I used to take the paint off the old tank. $6.78 per gallon at Wally's World. It works better than I thought it would since it's environmentally friendly and biodegradable. It cuts oil and grease good too. I think I'll put it in the parts cleaner tank so that I can heat it ... non flammable ;)
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Got lucky on the air plumbing ... You can see to the left the pilot valve for continous run feature without building pressure until need to keep from having the motor stop/start/stop/start. It opens @ 140psi and my pressure switch is set at 150 turn off.
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Got a little left to do but I finally broke down and put the vibration pads under it and it's not going out the door anymore, but damn that belt sure is jumping ! I even put a dial indicator on the pump pulley to check it. The motor and it's pulley run smooth with no belt, there's no lumps in the belt ... must be the nature of the beast being a 3 banger.
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My water trap minus the ball valve on the bottom end that I put on the tank.
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Interesting observation ...
The 2 dark contactors are 230v 1ph but one is rated 3hp and the other 5hp BUT they BOTH have the same part number !!
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..magnetic starters or whatever they are ...
 
That stuff removed paint, I'll have to look into it never seen it at Wally world....hmm well thanks for the idea Kentuck!
 
KentucK:
I've been putting some time into the bench lathe restoration project (I should post an update) and have been using the electrolysis method for removing rust - I was surprised at how good that was for raising paint also (although you'd need a big tub fer that tank)
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Kendell - Let me throw this at ya ...
You say galvanized pipe will flake and get in the air line , well what about the rust that forms inside the black pipe ?
 
I've heard from friends that work in the heating business that you're not supposed to use galvanized pipe for gas lines, only supposed to use black pipe, or of course copper, but never galvanized pipe. I wonder if this is due to sealing issues, I always thought it was because the galvanizing flakes and can mess up the tiny orifices in regulators and such.
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KENtucky, actually Kendell wrote that the fittings don't seal properly at high pressure due to the flaking:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

The galvanizing leaves flakes that get in the threads, it'll seal at low pressure, but the joints'll sizzle at 175 PSI<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
Kraig - you're right, I had problems with thread sealing - I didn't mention internal flaking, but I've gotta tell ya, at odd intervals, I have to take regulators apart to get the FOD out of them..they start creeping or downright leaking. The odd thing is, I still get red rust in the first trap also, so either the galvanizing is on the outside only, or ????
Oh, and you're right also on where I first heard about using black pipe only - my friend in the HVAC business...
 
Kendell - Help me prove to Kraig that I'm not as krazze as he thinks ... Didn't you mention once (maybe on main forum before we moved here) that you had flakes get into your paint gun nozzle and have to stop and unclog it ??
I'd say the red rust you're getting is from the inside of the tank.
 
KENtucky, you're not crazy, well actually I believe that you are crazy, but I recall something about galvanized flakes getting into the air lines too.
 
KENtucky, good thing I recall hearing that, as I'm the one that asked a question that resulted with mention of it.
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