my tractor was working ok until i changed the head gaskets.when i went to start it started then blown fuse.it shut off tried another fuse same thing .went to put the third fuse in noticed the red/white wire on the voltage sensor was broke (the round pcs on the battery tray it has two wires red/white and grey).wanted to wait until i got a new wire connector.looking further that i had continuity on the battery between pos and the neg.i thought it was ny switch but i unhooked everything from the battery just the battery and still had continuity. never seen that before.i have a new batery wanted too wait until i got the new wire connector.question 1 has any seen a battery do that before? 2 what does the voltage sensor do?, about a week before this my wife was mowing and it blown a fuse then put a new one in it was ok what do i check next any thought would help
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1864 blown fuse
- Thread starter tcromley
- Start date
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jdiederichs
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- Jim Diederichs
The voltage sensor only activates the dash iight, but they are recognized to wear out over time and give a false signal. I wonder if yours has an internal fault to ground?
mfrade
Well-known member
Are you using a digital multi-meter?
mfrade
Well-known member
It's probably reading the electron flow and interpreting it as continuity. "Some" of the digitals we have at work act like that. We kept 2 of the old analog meters to do cross checks with, when we hit upon a reading that doesn't seem or "feel" right, we break out the old analog to verify. We bought a new Megger meter, Flukes best, and we have to test and re-test because it is just not as reliable as our old analog that finally let the smoke out after 30 years. Doing a continuity test across a battery isn't what I'd think is practical, but I guess it didn't hurt your meter.
jchamberlin
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Troy: The fuse is blowing because it is protecting your tractor from a direct path of positive current to ground, in other words, a short. On your tractor there is only one fuse and it is on the hot lead from the starter solenoid to the key switch at terminal B (for Battery). See diagram below (a better copy is available for download, for free, in the Wiring Diagrams section off the main forum page on this site (thanks, Charlie).
In an effort to narrow down the offending circuit, I would be interested to know the following:
1. Does the fuse blow when the key is in the RUN position or in the RUN with LIGHTS position?
2. Does the fuse blow only when the PTO is engaged, or does it blow whether or not the PTO is engaged?
The reason I ask these two questions is that lights, even small indicator lights, can ground out; and because the PTO can also ground out if one of the wire's insulation becomes damaged.
If neither lights nor PTO can be singled out as a cause, there is always the key, or wires attaching to it, which can become frayed, abraded, or otherwise shorted. Start at the key and examine as much of the wire harness as you can to see if you can spot a place there hot wires are touching the frame or each other.
Finally, your tractor has several electrical components which can fail causing a short to ground, like the oil sensor, fuel sensor, brake switch, and reverse switch, as well as your voltage sensor. You might try disconnecting these if possible, or at least their connections to ground, although I'm not sure if the tractor will still run in all cases.
Just a thought.
In an effort to narrow down the offending circuit, I would be interested to know the following:
1. Does the fuse blow when the key is in the RUN position or in the RUN with LIGHTS position?
2. Does the fuse blow only when the PTO is engaged, or does it blow whether or not the PTO is engaged?
The reason I ask these two questions is that lights, even small indicator lights, can ground out; and because the PTO can also ground out if one of the wire's insulation becomes damaged.
If neither lights nor PTO can be singled out as a cause, there is always the key, or wires attaching to it, which can become frayed, abraded, or otherwise shorted. Start at the key and examine as much of the wire harness as you can to see if you can spot a place there hot wires are touching the frame or each other.
Finally, your tractor has several electrical components which can fail causing a short to ground, like the oil sensor, fuel sensor, brake switch, and reverse switch, as well as your voltage sensor. You might try disconnecting these if possible, or at least their connections to ground, although I'm not sure if the tractor will still run in all cases.
Just a thought.
the light was not hooked up.no hood on at the time/ pto wire was not connect ed. i do understand the short.i have never seeb a battery have continiuty thou.the wires on the voltage sensor were broke at the connector. so that would rule out those three items. should have contin on the red wire ke y switch to battery with the wire unhooked.then check to see if cont etween ground should not have then
