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1650 in Tough Shape

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glippert

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This probably won't be a full refurb, but I know I'll have a lot of questions, so I decided to just start a new thread for it:

I'm finally getting around to working on a 1650 I got about three years ago. It came with the motor removed, along with everything else under the hood (gas tank, firewall, muffler, etc). The tractor is in a storage unit across town, and the motor & all removed parts were under a work bench until today. As expected, the engine tin is in pretty tough shape, with lots of cracks, breaks, etc. And one of the bolts that hold the tin to the head was mostly missing. Part of it is broken off in the head! I took the head and tin to local machine shop - they'll make it good as new. The engine mounting rail mod hasn't been done yet, so as expected, the oil pan is worn badly at two of the mounting hole areas.

Is there any way to fix this, or should I start shopping?

Pan 1.jpg


Pan 2.jpg



Looks like the starter took a beating, too. I haven't bench tested it yet, but presume it works and I'll just need to find a replacement 10 tooth gear. (The ring gear on the flywheel is no worse for the wear.)

Starter 1.jpg


Starter 2.jpg



Head's a mess, but everything turns freely. I'll have to spend some quality time cleaning.

Head.jpg



Blower housing shows signs of a dance party, too. Matching holes on both sides.

Blower Housing Damage.jpg


Fortunately, the tractor was free to me, but I suspect I'll be spending a nice chunk of change before it's all done! Guess I'll have something to keep me busy for a couple weeks during Minnesota's "Stay at Home" order!
 

mgonitzke

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The pan can be TIG welded and re-machined to original dimensions. I would use a helicoil or similar in that hole when redrilling and tapping it.
100_3581.JPG
 

mfrade

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Looks like a fun project. The pan can be welded and milled back - but it would probably cost you as much if not more to do that - shop around and see if a replacement pan can be had.
 

dschwandt

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Look for a cast iron pan and pitch that aluminum piece.
And by the looks of that blower housing you will need to replace the ISO mounts as well and do the cradle mod to keep things in line and tight.
Along with a head resurface, looks to have needed a head gasket as well.
 
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glippert

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Look for a cast iron pan and pitch that aluminum piece.
And by the looks of that blower housing you will need to replace the ISO mounts as well and do the cradle mod to keep things in line and tight.
Along with a head resurface, looks to have needed a head gasket as well.
Yeah, it looks like the motor was definitely rockin' and rollin'. I do have a couple good used iso mounts on the shelf. If I'm lucky maybe this tractor will also have couple, so I can use 4 good used ones under the soon-to-modified rail and only need to buy 4 new ones for the top. And, yes, I'll dig out my plate glass for the head gasket surfaces.
 

glippert

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Any pictures around of the modified rails?
Don - Go back one level, to the main Support page, and look in the FAQs. David Kirk, Richard Christensen & Myron Bounds have complete instructions, measurements, and photos there.
 
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glippert

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Not sure where to post this question, but it feels pertinent, so I'll ask it here. What are the differences between a K341 and a K341AQS. I've got Quietlines, and I'm currently working on a 1650. I've got the manuals for K341, but sometimes wonder if I should be looking for specific AQS versions? Were there ever separate manuals? For instance, if I'm looking for a replacement oil pan; do I need to specify that it's for a Quietline/AQS? Would a pan from a 169 work with my AQS block? Just an example of why I'm wondering about the differences between the K341's.
 

snicklas

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I do recommend reading through the Manual

But, Quick answer is K341 is the basic engine. Not just specific to a Cub. The AQS are special designations, which are listed in the manual. The Q means that is a "Quiet" engine. There is one for a special oil pan, and a code for the starting type.

I highly recommend the cradle mod.... all our Quietlines have this done.

A cast iron pan from the higher horsepower IH Cub Cadets will work. The flat bottom pan like what is in an Original won't work. But one from a 12,14 or 16 will work. My 1450 has a cast iron pan from a 149 on it.
 

glippert

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Well, this guy is quickly becoming a money pit, but I'm in too deep to quit now! As shown by the wear on the oil pan in the pics above, the PO had bad iso mounts. Which also explains the frame and motor mounting rail both worn halfway through. "Hello - machine shop?"
20200331_105223.jpg
 

glippert

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Does anyone have a trick for removing the T-handle on the throttle control? I presume there's a one-way binding clip inside?
 

digger

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Does anyone have a trick for removing the T-handle on the throttle control? I presume there's a one-way binding clip inside?
No clip, just plastic, Jerk on it or heat the metal handle a little. (y)
 

glippert

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I was pretty bummed about the badly worn cross-brace on the frame at first. But now it's just another challenge. Once I got it ckeaned up i discovered a hairline crack from the access hole to the edge. Glad I discovered it before just slapping everything back together. Here's a better view of the worn frame.
20200331_155211.jpg


Tomorrow I'll split tractor and get the frame to the machine shop. While I have the front axle removed I'll tighten up the axle channel. And, of course, when I finally got the footrest screws removed and fender pan removed, I found the hydro unit under all the baked on grease, dirt, grass & gunk, and I could see the trunion needs repair, too.

And to think I was worried I might get bored in retirement!

🤦‍♂️
 

dschwandt

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Do it all, do it right and enjoy it for years to come.
These are great little tractors when maintained and treated right,

Good luck!!
 

glippert

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Can't find in manual or parts lookup: how long are the 3/8-16 engine mounting bolts for a 1650? (To mount the engine to the rails).
 

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