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Well I love her again, 1450.

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Daniel Wiser

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I messed something up. Is there supposed to be two bolts in the lift linkage where the hydraulic cylinder attaches? If there's not, I guess I know why now. But I put a bolt in the second hole and, well, now I need to buy a new cooling fan and I guess I may as well rebuild the driveshaft while it's apart. I know the answer should be not at all, with just a partial cooling fan but, can I still jockey a trailer around without worrying? I'm not going to go grading my topsoil til it's right but I do have a small trailer that's much easier to move around with the tractor instead of coaching my wife on which way to crank the wheel etc., And have to move the van out of the yard because of community rules. I have a feeling it will take a decent amount of abuse with the brand new filter and fluid. But the ol girl is being so nice to me lately I don't want to hurt anything.
 
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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
1660132296371.png
Bolts??
The cylinder mounts to the pin on part 7
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
#9 is the optional float lockout pin

There should have been a pin in the ass'y when you took it apart that allows part #7 to pivot on part #3.
There is a spec in the manual as to the position of the fan from the rear coupler on the driveshaft.
You may have had it too far forward.
Pretty tight 1/4's in there!
 

Daniel Wiser

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#9 is the optional float lockout pin

There should have been a pin in the ass'y when you took it apart that allows part #7 to pivot on part #3.
There is a spec in the manual as to the position of the fan from the rear coupler on the driveshaft.
You may have had it too far forward.
Pretty tight 1/4's in there!
Oh I never took it apart I've just been adding stuff to it and trying to fix problems as I find them. It was running and driving when I got it but still a project.
 

Daniel Wiser

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But it sounds like the bolt I added should not be there because by adding that I made part #7 rigid with part #3. It does have a pin it pivots on in the second or bottom hole, I added a bolt to either the second or top hole because for some reason I thought it needed to be there, I have no idea why I thought this. Maybe I was thinking backwards in how the plow lifts
 

Daniel Wiser

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Dw89xj
#9 is the optional float lockout pin

There should have been a pin in the ass'y when you took it apart that allows part #7 to pivot on part #3.
There is a spec in the manual as to the position of the fan from the rear coupler on the driveshaft.
You may have had it too far forward.
Pretty tight 1/4's in there!
I noticed my fan did walk a little on the shaft but I don't know if it did it just because or more likely the stupid bolt hitting the fins caused it. I guess at least it isn't too expensive of a mistake.
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Fan should have a snap ring holding it in place.
And there is a short 1/2" clevis pin holding #7 in place

Pin, 1/2 X 1-3/16 Std Hd | (Common Hardware, Purchase Locally)
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
I noticed my fan did walk a little on the shaft but I don't know if it did it just because or more likely the stupid bolt hitting the fins caused it. I guess at least it isn't too expensive of a mistake.
Well, to replace the fan you'll have to remove the driveshaft and to remove the driveshaft you have to unbolt the engine and move it forward, unless others on here have another method.
And that snap ring holding the fan in place is really stiff and takes a really good pair of snap ring pliers to install. Pay close attention to the installation location since tolerances are very close.
 

Daniel Wiser

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Well, to replace the fan you'll have to remove the driveshaft and to remove the driveshaft you have to unbolt the engine and move it forward, unless others on here have another method.
And that snap ring holding the fan in place is really stiff and takes a really good pair of snap ring pliers to install. Pay close attention to the installation location since tolerances are very close.
I did see on YouTube guys using refrigerator fans and stuff to I guess more or less bandaid them. I can't really scrounge for parts too well anymore so I'm just going to order a new fan and sheer pin. I need to replace the motor mounts at least the left side. It does rock about 3/4-1" if you watch it while cranking if it gets a half butted start and doesn't take off fully.
 

hydroharry

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Ooh, and make sure you remove that extra bolt you installed so part 7 can rotate independent of part 3. If you leave it your deck will not float up over obstacles, and your snow/dozer blade will ride at a fixed height. You can try it if you like but you risk damage to the deck, or injury to yourself with the blade fixed.
 

dschwandt

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The fan can be replaced with out moving the engine as there is a ball coupler on the engine..

Remove the bolts from the rag joints and the pins from the couplers and slide the parts, including what's left of the fan, forward on the driveshaft far enough to clear the transmission input shaft and lift clear enough to remove the parts.
Replace the fan and re assemble.
There is a ball bearing spacer in there between the 2 rear couplers, don't loose it as it is there to keep the drive shaft centered when together properly.
Having fun yet??
 

Daniel Wiser

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The fan can be replaced with out moving the engine as there is a ball coupler on the engine..

Remove the bolts from the rag joints and the pins from the couplers and slide the parts, including what's left of the fan, forward on the driveshaft far enough to clear the transmission input shaft and lift clear enough to remove the parts.
Replace the fan and re assemble.
There is a ball bearing spacer in there between the 2 rear couplers, don't loose it as it is there to keep the drive shaft centered when together properly.
Having fun yet??
Lol. It doesn't sound too hateful, it has to be easier than changing the 40 couple year old filter that came off with more tools than it should have, and in more pieces too...
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
The fan can be replaced with out moving the engine as there is a ball coupler on the engine..

Remove the bolts from the rag joints and the pins from the couplers and slide the parts, including what's left of the fan, forward on the driveshaft far enough to clear the transmission input shaft and lift clear enough to remove the parts.
Replace the fan and re assemble.
There is a ball bearing spacer in there between the 2 rear couplers, don't loose it as it is there to keep the drive shaft centered when together properly.
Having fun yet??
David - not all the 1450s have the ball coupler. Daniel will have to watch closely as he disassembles. Your method may still work.
 
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Daniel Wiser

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Well I knew I should've paid a couple dollars more for the set, instead of just buying the tie rod alone. The drag link end broke off or the threads pulled out, I didn't look too close, we were hot and I just wasn't that worried at the moment, but it's still something I need to try and fix this week, since I need the ol girl about every weekend til we get moved, she just comes in too handy.
 

Daniel Wiser

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But I do have to say, for as much of a booger as it was getting to the little 90 degree grease zerk it made a heck of a difference getting some fresh stuff in the steering box. Much easier although I don't think that had anything to do with the threads pulling out of the rod end.
 

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