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Ohm Meter and Battery Charge
- Thread starter tmalinich
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Tim, set the volt/ohm meter on the DC Volts setting. Place the positive + lead (typically red) onto the positive + terminal and the negative - lead (typically black) on the negative - terminal. With the engine running, your meter should read somewhere between +12 volts and +14 volts. (+13.8 volts would be just about perfect.) <FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
Once again excellent advise from Kraig - Thank you!
If you are reading 12 volts or less then the charging circuit is not working. I wire loose, unhooked or the generator or alternator has failed. If you are reading more than 14 volts, like 17 volts then the alternator has failed and it will in turn ruin the battery, etc.
Someone let us know what a fully charged battery should read. I am thinking 13.2 volts DC is a fully charged battery. However I also was thinking there are 2.6 volts per cell. A 12 volt battery has 6 cells, at 2.6 volts per cell this equal 15.6 Volts so that's not correct. Must be 2.2 Volts per cell.
I quit working daily with batteries in 1996...
If you are reading 12 volts or less then the charging circuit is not working. I wire loose, unhooked or the generator or alternator has failed. If you are reading more than 14 volts, like 17 volts then the alternator has failed and it will in turn ruin the battery, etc.
Someone let us know what a fully charged battery should read. I am thinking 13.2 volts DC is a fully charged battery. However I also was thinking there are 2.6 volts per cell. A 12 volt battery has 6 cells, at 2.6 volts per cell this equal 15.6 Volts so that's not correct. Must be 2.2 Volts per cell.
I quit working daily with batteries in 1996...
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- Allen Schumacher
Vince, you are correct at your second choice. A fully charged lead-acid cell is 2.2 volts, or about 13.2v no load. Many other batteries(cells) have higher than listed voltage also. Alkaline and carbon/zinc cells are at 1.7v but go to 1.5v in use, Ni-cads go from 1.4v to 1.2v in use.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Kraiq et al:
If I'm checking for charging, I start measuring with the engine off, key off and measure static ("static" as in "engine is not running", not as in "the cat just rubbed against my polyester pant leg") voltage at the battery first, then start the engine, bring it above idle and check RUNNING voltage, which ideally should be around 13.2 v., but will more likely be closer to 14 v. The static voltage will usually be somewheres from 11 to a little over 12 volts, unless you just pulled it off the charger. If the voltage does not rise from the static voltage, you know right away you've got a charging problem.
If I'm checking for charging, I start measuring with the engine off, key off and measure static ("static" as in "engine is not running", not as in "the cat just rubbed against my polyester pant leg") voltage at the battery first, then start the engine, bring it above idle and check RUNNING voltage, which ideally should be around 13.2 v., but will more likely be closer to 14 v. The static voltage will usually be somewheres from 11 to a little over 12 volts, unless you just pulled it off the charger. If the voltage does not rise from the static voltage, you know right away you've got a charging problem.
Kendell, excellent point about checking the battery voltage with the engine off to see what it's voltage level is before checking to see if it's charging.
