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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
James - is your steering wheel bent to the side or is it loose? It sorta looks like it's twisted alot to the side and I've only seen that once the tractor has rolled. If it's just the wheel there are plenty of that style around. If it did roll the lift arm will usually be bent as well but it looks ok in your pic. Let us know about the steering wheel.
Also, I see you've got some non-standard linkage on the throttle to the top connection ont he governor arm. Don't know how that might work, and I'd recommend getting the correct connection. Used parts should be around as well but need to determine if you have the original carb or an updated replacement. Need some close up pics to tell. Also, besides the gas tank you're also missing the gas filter bowl and the fuel line. You can probably get the bowl new and then convert to the rubber hose fuel line, but need to see the connector on the side of the carb as well. Still all in all it's a pretty clean looking tractor.
Oh, and one more thing, you have one of the gas tank straps laying across the heat shield and head of the engine (you'll have to remove the plug wire to lift it off. Not sure if that strap is for a 10hp or 12hp tank either, looks more like a 12hp strap but maybe one of the guys on here more familiar with the 10hp can tell right off hand if it's for a 10hp or 12hp.
Also, I see you've got some non-standard linkage on the throttle to the top connection ont he governor arm. Don't know how that might work, and I'd recommend getting the correct connection. Used parts should be around as well but need to determine if you have the original carb or an updated replacement. Need some close up pics to tell. Also, besides the gas tank you're also missing the gas filter bowl and the fuel line. You can probably get the bowl new and then convert to the rubber hose fuel line, but need to see the connector on the side of the carb as well. Still all in all it's a pretty clean looking tractor.
Oh, and one more thing, you have one of the gas tank straps laying across the heat shield and head of the engine (you'll have to remove the plug wire to lift it off. Not sure if that strap is for a 10hp or 12hp tank either, looks more like a 12hp strap but maybe one of the guys on here more familiar with the 10hp can tell right off hand if it's for a 10hp or 12hp.
James-
Your 104 has a lot of OEM potential. It needs the usual cleaning that most need from neglect and should clean up nicely. The sponsors above will probably have the proper tank. It also appears the rear axle seals may need some attention (replacing) from the greasy looking dirt on the rear. Be sure and check the rearend fluid before using a lot.
Also, you don't need to start a new post for every picture you post...just hit enter and post the another one just like the other one.
Harry-
Why does James have to remove the plug wire to remove the gas tank strap when the strap is open on the fourth/clamp side? Have you had your coffee yet?
Your 104 has a lot of OEM potential. It needs the usual cleaning that most need from neglect and should clean up nicely. The sponsors above will probably have the proper tank. It also appears the rear axle seals may need some attention (replacing) from the greasy looking dirt on the rear. Be sure and check the rearend fluid before using a lot.
Also, you don't need to start a new post for every picture you post...just hit enter and post the another one just like the other one.
Harry-
Why does James have to remove the plug wire to remove the gas tank strap when the strap is open on the fourth/clamp side? Have you had your coffee yet?
James if the 104 had the original gas tank on it and you use a tank from a 12 hp you will also need the bracket the tank sits on. The 12 hp tank is to wide for the bracket. This means removing 3 head bolts to change the bracket.This would be a good time to remove the head and inspect, and clean the carbon, and install a new head gasket. Just my o2c
hydroharry
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Wayne - you're right, th fuel tank strap is open on the side where it bolts together. Yes it was late, and now I've had a little coffee.
Luther - you're right, that is a 10hp tank mount on the head and shroud, and I see now the gas tank strap is for a 10hp.
Tom - I looked back at all the pics 3 times and I don't see a gas tank.
James - we have some clarification on questions in my ealier message. You're missing 1 strap for your gas tank, and the one laying on top of your engine is for a 10hp tank. So you need one strap and the 10hp tank, and some type of fuel line set up. We still need pics of the carb and fuel inlet on the side of it because we can advise further.
Also, in one of your pics I see a few off topic units, so I assume you have some knowledge of what you're getting into.
Luther - you're right, that is a 10hp tank mount on the head and shroud, and I see now the gas tank strap is for a 10hp.
Tom - I looked back at all the pics 3 times and I don't see a gas tank.
James - we have some clarification on questions in my ealier message. You're missing 1 strap for your gas tank, and the one laying on top of your engine is for a 10hp tank. So you need one strap and the 10hp tank, and some type of fuel line set up. We still need pics of the carb and fuel inlet on the side of it because we can advise further.
Also, in one of your pics I see a few off topic units, so I assume you have some knowledge of what you're getting into.
Tom, the photo of the Cub with the fuel tank is a photo of a 106 not the 104...
J
jdthompson
Guest
Sorry about the pic with the tank it got mixed in with the pics of my 104. I have several other kinds of garden tractors
hydroharry
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Ok, I must be doing something wrong. Each of the photobucket links has one pic, and all I see is a 104. Where or where is the link to the 106 pic?
jchamberlin
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Harry: When I click on his first link posted at 2/20/13 at 02:33 pm I get access to more photos than I care to view, one of which is the 106. You have to click on the big <font size="+2">"<font color="0000ff">></font>"</font> to view the next picture.
hydroharry
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Jeremiah - well I guess I don't have the same access. All I get is one pic with a view from the left side and I don't get a " > " symbol, and I scanned all around the pic with my cursor and get get any type of additional connection. I even tried it with my work computer and nothing extra. Usually when I access Photo bucket I not only get one large pic but a list/group of small photos I can enlarge - but I get none on that on this link.
J
jdthompson
Guest
I don't have a 106 that was a pic that got mixed with the pics of my 104. I worked on it today and found some wiers loose the battery is dead so I couldn't check it to see if it would turn over by the key
J
jdthompson
Guest
I think I found all my loss wires I hope the ground is dry or frozen so I can try it when I get home from work
J
jdthompson
Guest
I tryed it and it still clicks is the regulator suppose to be grounded or is it just my selanode bad
jchamberlin
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James: Forum Member Roland Bedell has diagrammed the voltage regulators with which your tractor was originally equipped. If your voltage regulator has three wires, the case is grounded; if your voltage regulator has four wires, one of them is a ground. Some non-IH replacements may have the terminals marked differently or put in a different order; sometimes the ground wire is found on the back of the regulator.
Some voltage regulators have a fourth "L" terminal for load which typically is connected to the lights, as Roland calls attention to the service bulletin published by Delco-Remy.
Some voltage regulators have a fourth "L" terminal for load which typically is connected to the lights, as Roland calls attention to the service bulletin published by Delco-Remy.
J
jdthompson
Guest
Mine has to be grounded where is it supposed to be grounded to
jchamberlin
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JT: If you follow the cable from the negative post of the battery, I think you will find it connected to the tractor's frame: the frame is the ground reference for just about any vehicle. If your voltage regulator does not have a terminal for a ground wire, then it receives its reference from the connection of the voltage regulator's case to the frame/body of the tractor. You should clean all connections from the V-R case to "ground." If your V-R is mounted above the engine on the nose of the tractor, and you lack a terminal for a ground wire, I should think the ground connections include where the nose bolts to the frame of the tractor.
If you haven't already, I would clean the connections at the solenoid and the negative terminal of the battery at the frame. Again, if you haven't already, I would make sure your battery's posts and clamp terminals are clean and tight.
Note: If your solenoid is clicking, this means that your key is working and that you are getting 12 volts to the "magnetic switch" as the solenoid is termed at the small wire and that the ground at the solenoid is good; but if the starter isn't turning over then either the big wire at the solenoid isn't being switched, or more likely, the connections (especially at the "grounds") aren't secure enough to carry the higher current loads on the heavy gauge wire.
There is, of course, a third possibility, namely, that the starter/generator is bad, or there is a problem with the wiring to it which runs through the voltage regulator.
It is difficult to solve electrical problems by mechanical means, even when the root cause is mechanical. You need to use electrical tools to properly diagnose electrical problems. So if you have a volt meter, try to get readings as follows:
With the volt meter set to the range of 0-15 or 0-20 or 0-30 or 0-50 volts DC (whatever is the closest range for your meter) perform the following tests with the battery hooked up in the tractor. The first three tests are preliminary diagnostics, you can start at step 5 if you want to.
1. Take two readings: Check across battery terminals you should have a good 12 volts to start. Check at the posts, then check again at the battery cables. If the readings don't match, clean the battery posts.
2. Take a third reading: Check from the frame to the positive battery post. Find a spot you don't mind scratching the rust from in order to make good contact to ground with the black, negative lead of volt meter; you should get a reading that closely matches the first two readings above. If the reading is significantly lower, clean the connection where the negative battery cable connects to the frame.
3. Take a reading: If you're curious about how well the voltage regulator is grounded, then take a reading from the ground terminal or V-R case to the positive side of the battery, again, you should register close to 12 volts. If you don't have that reading, then clean the connections necessary to achieve it.
4. Try to start the tractor.
5. If the tractor doesn't start, and you're getting a click at the solenoid, take two readings across the BIG wires at the solenoid. This step may require an assistant. First reading: without touching the ignition key, read the voltage from the positive terminal of the battery to ground (as in step 1 above) you should have 12 volts. Second reading: while holding the volt meter terminals to the positive terminal of the battery and ground, turn the key --the voltage should drop significantly. If the voltage at the positive terminal of the battery does not drop, then there is no current being drawn by the starter/generator, that is, it isn't even TRYING to start and either the solenoid switch contacts are corroded beyond usefulness, you've lost your ground, there is a problem with the starter/generator, or with the starter/generator circuit (which includes the voltage regulator). This same test can be duplicated if you have lights and they work. Turn the lights on and try to start the tractor, the lights should dim. If the lights go out, the tractor has lost its ground, if the lights don't dim, there is a problem with the starting circuit-- the solenoid, wiring, V-R, or starter/generator.
6. If you're curious about the condition of the solenoid, take a reading: move the red, positive lead of the volt meter from the positive post of the battery and move it to the terminal on the solenoid that runs to the battery. Whatever reading you have at the positive post should be replicated on the downstream side of the "magnetic switch." Of course, if the voltage reading isn't dropping as it should, this test is inconclusive; a better test is to disconnect both "big wires" and apply 12 volts to the terminal for the little wire. Switch the volt meter to reading ohms and take two readings: first reading without applying power to the IGN terminal should be infinity; second reading, with 12 volts applied at the small-wire IGN terminal (the solenoid's frame must be grounded) should be continuity (0 ohms) or close to it. If you are reading continuity across the big terminals with the switch activated and disconnected then your solenoid is working.
If you work through all your grounds, and the solenoid checks out, then the problem is either at the voltage regulator, the starter/generator, or the chassis wiring itself. If you're not comfortable working on electrical stuff, I would probably seek professional help at this point. Report any results and we'll try to help you.
If you haven't already, I would clean the connections at the solenoid and the negative terminal of the battery at the frame. Again, if you haven't already, I would make sure your battery's posts and clamp terminals are clean and tight.
Note: If your solenoid is clicking, this means that your key is working and that you are getting 12 volts to the "magnetic switch" as the solenoid is termed at the small wire and that the ground at the solenoid is good; but if the starter isn't turning over then either the big wire at the solenoid isn't being switched, or more likely, the connections (especially at the "grounds") aren't secure enough to carry the higher current loads on the heavy gauge wire.
There is, of course, a third possibility, namely, that the starter/generator is bad, or there is a problem with the wiring to it which runs through the voltage regulator.
It is difficult to solve electrical problems by mechanical means, even when the root cause is mechanical. You need to use electrical tools to properly diagnose electrical problems. So if you have a volt meter, try to get readings as follows:
With the volt meter set to the range of 0-15 or 0-20 or 0-30 or 0-50 volts DC (whatever is the closest range for your meter) perform the following tests with the battery hooked up in the tractor. The first three tests are preliminary diagnostics, you can start at step 5 if you want to.
1. Take two readings: Check across battery terminals you should have a good 12 volts to start. Check at the posts, then check again at the battery cables. If the readings don't match, clean the battery posts.
2. Take a third reading: Check from the frame to the positive battery post. Find a spot you don't mind scratching the rust from in order to make good contact to ground with the black, negative lead of volt meter; you should get a reading that closely matches the first two readings above. If the reading is significantly lower, clean the connection where the negative battery cable connects to the frame.
3. Take a reading: If you're curious about how well the voltage regulator is grounded, then take a reading from the ground terminal or V-R case to the positive side of the battery, again, you should register close to 12 volts. If you don't have that reading, then clean the connections necessary to achieve it.
4. Try to start the tractor.
5. If the tractor doesn't start, and you're getting a click at the solenoid, take two readings across the BIG wires at the solenoid. This step may require an assistant. First reading: without touching the ignition key, read the voltage from the positive terminal of the battery to ground (as in step 1 above) you should have 12 volts. Second reading: while holding the volt meter terminals to the positive terminal of the battery and ground, turn the key --the voltage should drop significantly. If the voltage at the positive terminal of the battery does not drop, then there is no current being drawn by the starter/generator, that is, it isn't even TRYING to start and either the solenoid switch contacts are corroded beyond usefulness, you've lost your ground, there is a problem with the starter/generator, or with the starter/generator circuit (which includes the voltage regulator). This same test can be duplicated if you have lights and they work. Turn the lights on and try to start the tractor, the lights should dim. If the lights go out, the tractor has lost its ground, if the lights don't dim, there is a problem with the starting circuit-- the solenoid, wiring, V-R, or starter/generator.
6. If you're curious about the condition of the solenoid, take a reading: move the red, positive lead of the volt meter from the positive post of the battery and move it to the terminal on the solenoid that runs to the battery. Whatever reading you have at the positive post should be replicated on the downstream side of the "magnetic switch." Of course, if the voltage reading isn't dropping as it should, this test is inconclusive; a better test is to disconnect both "big wires" and apply 12 volts to the terminal for the little wire. Switch the volt meter to reading ohms and take two readings: first reading without applying power to the IGN terminal should be infinity; second reading, with 12 volts applied at the small-wire IGN terminal (the solenoid's frame must be grounded) should be continuity (0 ohms) or close to it. If you are reading continuity across the big terminals with the switch activated and disconnected then your solenoid is working.
If you work through all your grounds, and the solenoid checks out, then the problem is either at the voltage regulator, the starter/generator, or the chassis wiring itself. If you're not comfortable working on electrical stuff, I would probably seek professional help at this point. Report any results and we'll try to help you.
