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My dump trailer

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dtanner

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Donald Tanner
here is what I got to start with.the box is 47" long x40.5" wide and15" high. the axels are 4 bolt 2500 lbs ,tires are 18x8.5x8 6ply 484kgs at 2.205.
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The gate just slides in a slot 1.5 angle.
I want to have a dump trailer that will run off the rear ports. so I have about 800 psi hyd pressure and I have to match flow and weight and length. Thats were I could use another brain. well I have seen Aaron`s dump and that would be here if shipping was less $$$$. I`am open to see what everyone comes up with lol. HELP
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here is more info, I`am thinking a short throw cylinder 1.5". The toungue is down and with the tail gate on the floor I have 17.5" from where the toungue sits with a load. I hope this helps
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KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver)
Well i`m glade you came out too have a say lol. I have been thinking right alone those lines. but I might have missed that class lol.Is there a law or something to rig out the lift . I know I need 17.5 in lift from the tongue.
 
DON - I'm sure Aaron will help. But take a look at "Pronovost" in a google search. I tried posting a link but for some reason can't capture it! I have their #P503 tandem cart. It has a 3" x 12" cylinder, the bed is 50"W x 70" L x 18" H, it has sideboards added by the prior owner. My 982 can lift it full of crushed rock up to the top of the steel sides at an idle. OHHHH, and the best part is they're made in Quebec, CANADA.

The box is set-up different than your cart, it pivots from the back so the very back never gets close to the ground unless the tailgate is dropped down like a pickup tailgate. It also unlatches from the bottom to dump like a normal dump truck box too.

I'm thinking a short cylinder, say 6-8 inches long set between where the two angle irons drop down along side the tongue at the front of the box, running back towards the cross member just ahead of the wheels/tires would dump your cart. The diameter would depend on how you load the cart. If the frt was filled to the top without the tailgate in it would take more force to dump, a 2" dia cylinder may not dump it, but a 2-1/2" would I would think.

My cart only raises to about a 45 deg. angle, and it really doesn't clean out as well as I'd like, I think 55-60 deg. would be better. But I pull it with the 3-pt to sleeve hitch adapter with a real short drawbar so I can raise the hitch level and it works much better. Hitched that way the weight is further back on the tractor, enough so the frt wheels barely touch the ground and I have to steer with the brakes.

I've used my cart a L-O-T with the 982, and there's only been ONE load of dirt last summer I couldn't raise, the tailgate was off, or at least down, and the cart was loaded with loose dirt heaped up to over-flowing across the frt and most of the sides, and I had to hit the hyd. lever while backing up then jerk the tractor forward to get the cart to raise. On one other load I had to speed the engine up to a fast idle to raise a similar load. I bought it slightly used almost 2 yrs ago for less than HALF what Northern Tool used to sell a similar cart for. My only regret other than this one not raising quite steep enough is that I don't have a much bigger one to pull with my FARMALL's, I'm thinking like a 10K or 16K size, something I could pull with a truck or a tractor.
 
HEY KEN! Dad bought a BRAND NEW Mid-West sissors hoist for a new flarebox wagon back in about '66, then the neighbor found a low-profile twin cylinder hoist that He liked so well He bought one of those instead and never used the Mid-West hoist. He hooked the hyd. hose and Pioneer coupler to it and cycled it once to put oil in the cylinder but never installed it. All his other wagons already had hoists, also Mid-West's if I remember right.

I was never actually able to find out how it worked but Mid-West always advertised the "Godbursen Link" in their hoists that let them start lifting greater weights than any other hoist. Anyhow, that new hoist sold at DAD's last auction about 3-1/2 yrs ago for.....(drum roll) THREE DOLLARS. Not sure what it was rated to lift, had a 5" x 20" cylinder, and would raise a wagon with 7500-8000# of corn at idle with IH's 800 PSI hyd. systems on H's & M's.

I heard on another site that old hill-side self-propelled combines used small 2 or 3 stage cylinders in their leveling systems, something 3" to 4" dia. and about 35-40" total stroke. I've never been able to find a hill-side combine around here with one of those systems but I always figured Those cylinders would be perfect for a cart for a garden tractor, except they'd need more oil than a hydro rearend could spare.
 
Ken , Dennis
If you guys could tell me how to measure this lift up I would be grateful. Full dump now is 17" of lift at the tongue . I have through of using a long cylinder from the tongue to the top of the box .That way I could use a standard cylinder like I have on my loader. But the scissor type could be out of the way under the dump box. I don`t know what kind of flow I will get from the rear ports and a big cylinder might be to slow. I`am open to ideas on this, hydraulics are not my strong point. Thanks Don
 
Don - We can't give you measurements since we don't have it here to measure.
The easiest way might be to look at your floor jack and use it as a reference for the pivot points.
 
Don, Go get yourself a couple 8' 2X2's cut them to a couple different lengths totalling about 20". Use them to figure out you pivot points for the cylinder you have available.
 
Jim Egstad

Thanks for that info,I now can use wood to mock up a hoist for my trailer. Thanks again
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Guys I need help on buying a big dump trailer. I`am looking at two dump trailers and don`t know what would be best to buy. both are 12' long and are low profile with the wheels out side and have electric power dump . they both are built with 6" c Chanel and have 16" wheels and 6.5 k axles. My issue is what the lift cylinder size would be best. One is equipped with two 3" cylinders and the other is one 5" cylinder .The 5" is stated to lift 14K and the two 3" don`t list there weight lift. I just don`t have a clue as to what would be the best . Any thoughts on this would be great. Thanks Don T
 
Don,

At the same pressure (pressure x cylinder area = force) the single 5" cylinder (19.6 sq in) would apply more force than the double 3" cylinders (2 x 7in sq = 14in sq)....BUT lift geometry must be factored in as well. Poor geometry in the 5" design might allow the dual 3" to out lift it (at the same hyd. oil pressure).

There is nothing cut and dried about it if it's an apples to oranges hoist design. Now, if it was the exact same hoist with the same geometry and stroke, I would buy the 5" cylinder and use it's 40% greater potential lift capacity.
 
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)

Thanks for that info. I think I wil go with the 5" cylinder .I could always add a short cylinder if it needs a boost.The supplier will have a bumper pull and a fiver style for me to look at next week .Its hard to find dump trailers that are built with C channel around here , seems most are box iron , and I don`t like the fact that they can rust inside and not show that it could fall apart.So I have decided to go with C channel for that reason . I have the use of a friends trailer and i`am always ask when I have it to haul loads other people. so I will buy a new trailer and put it to work .the suppliers nickle and dime buyers of trailers by having ramps,drop legs,tarps and spare tires as extras. Thanks for the info . Later Don T
 

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