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Monkeying around in Shultzie's garage
- Thread starter kshultz
- Start date
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Been a while since I posted. Still lurking though. I've been putting up some LED rope lighting in the garage/man cave the last couple of weeks. I think it turned out well. When we aren't working on the cubs we hang out there a lot. The lighting was just too bright at times for hanging out or watching TV on the big screen. I think this works out well.
cubs4lifeofme
Well-known member
Looks good. I like it.
I bought this grill/smoker about 4 years ago. I love it but it's not very maneuverable. It has nice wheels on the back but nothing in the front. I know most people don't need to move the grill much, but I like to keep it stored inside the garage when not in use. I figure it will last longer not being in the weather. (RUST) When picking it up in the front it's kind of heavy to pick up and move. So I bought these casters out of McMaster-Carr and installed them last night. I had to shorten the legs a bit and drill a few holes to make it right. I think it turned out well and I highly recommend doing this if you have a similar grill/smoker. Now it moves as easy as a new shopping cart. 
I trust you keep that car in a garage too.
Stacey knocked the mower deck wheel off the other day. Got it fixed and back on last night. Does anyone know if someone makes longer lasting blades for this type of mower? 
Stacey is pretty rough on them. 
Stacey is pretty rough on them.
I buy the blades direct from my cub dealer, they say they have a tempered cutting edge. I like the extra high lift blades, and the "wing" wears away pretty quick, like yours. The last set I bought I tempered the wing and they have been on for 3 seasons now. I'm just starting to get a wear line in the base of the wing, so I'll probly get a new set this fall and repeat the process.
How did you temper the "wing"?
I heated the wing to almost a glowing color, then quenched it in oil. That made it harder, but not brittle. Which keeps the sand and dirty from wearing it off. Search "knife spine tempering" on you tube, and you'll get a good grasp on how to do it. My neighbor is a black Smith, so he walked me through it.
Interesting. We have a heat treat oven here at work. Do you suppose I could put the whole blade in and treat it that way?
If not I can take a torch to it and try it your way. When quenching it in oil does it splatter and make a mess?
If not I can take a torch to it and try it your way. When quenching it in oil does it splatter and make a mess?
Unless you have a press-quench, you'll warp / bow the crap out of the blade during quench...do not do the whole thing.
Do like Jay stated - just don't get the metal glowing too bright...
I wouldn't do the whole blade, because if you hit something, it may shatter instead of bending, as well as warping it like PA said. If you get it to hot, I'm sure the oil quench will spit a bit at ya. We also warmed the oil to around 100° f, I'm not sure what that does, but my neighbor said to do it, so I did. He was also pretty insistent on not getting much heat anywhere near the cutting edge to keep from removing the temper from it. So I made a jig that let the cutting edge in water while I heated the lift wing. Seemed to work.
What happens when you get it too hot is that you run the risk of austenitizing it, therefore when you quench it in oil you'll be at max hardness and without reheating it to the proper tempering temperature the material will be brittle and will shatter when it strikes something. The edge, being thinnest wouldn't take much to heat to austenitizing temp...
Yeah, heat treating metal is what I've been doing the past 24 years, it's very interesting and there's so many variables that can come into play... That being said, it's best to stick with what you can get from the store. Without the guidance (like your blacksmith neighbor), someone could really do some damage with hardened blades spinning that fast...
Huh........ I think I might have answered my own question. It looks a lot like this one. McCormick-Deering. What do you guys think?
smallfarmersjournal.com
McCormick-Deering Tractor Disc Harrow No. 10-A - Small Farmer's Journal
For best results, the draft angles (front frame) on the front harrow should be approximately level when the harrow is hitched to the tractor. If necessary, adjust tractor draw bar to obtain this result. In practically all field work the gangs should run level and cut at an even depth. Adjust the...
smallfarmersjournal.com
