I acquired a 1872 from my friend and neighbor's wife after he passed away. He bought the tractor new, 1989 I think. This is my second cub. I restored a 169 that was in a barn when I bought my place in 2000. The 1872 had a stripped out spark plug hole and the blower housing was packed full of mice nests. This site is a treasure trove of information. Thanks, Ray
Hello from Michigan 1872
- Thread starter Ray Shotwell
- Start date
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Welcome to the forum Ray
1811Cub
Well-known member
Welcome!
Hello Ray and welcome to the site.
HELLO from southeast Georgia, I am a Michigan native. bay city area, where you from? I just bought my first 1872 about 2 months ago starting to do mods and upgrades, all in work. but slow going my job is keeping me all busied up! but I would like to collaborate with you if you need any info that I can share I will, regards Mark S. Waynesville GA.
Hi Mark, I live and work just outside Detroit but I have a small place in south central Mi. I try to get there on the weekends. I have the engine out of tractor. So far I have all the engine tins repaired, sandblasted and painted, disassembled cleaned up and reassembled starter. My engine didn't have a single bolt holding it in. The drive shaft was pretty worn so I welded and turned the end back to size on the lathe. I have new ball bushings ready to go back in. I am not sure not sure how far to take the engine apart. It only has 600 hrs. on it. I was thinking of checking the valve specs, lapping them, hone cylinders and fresh rings.
1811Cub
Well-known member
600 hours is nothing in regards to the Magnum twins. If the engine does not smoke, leak, and has good power, leave it alone. CLEAN the cooling fins and under the tins. Remove the heads and decarbon it. Use only OEM Kohler head gaskets and retorque them after a few hours. Rebuild the fuel pump, using a new one to source the parts. Replace the breather filter and rubber hose in the valve cover. It is always a good call to add a oil pressure gauge to them. They are very thirsty, and they do have governor gear failures. But they are leaps and bounds above the KT17's!
I never attempted to start it as the blower shroud was packed solid with mouse nests and plug blown out. Heads are off and clean. Welded and repaired the damaged spark plug hole. I still have to test the stator and definitely need a coil. What is your opinion of the knockoff coils? Cylinder walls are not scored at all but no visible crosshatch. I have the updated breather, new tube, and breather filter. Is there an updated governor gear available? I plan on using this tractor around my place to pull a roller, seeder, and sprayer for my food plots. It also came with a hydro angle blade and a Haban deck. Thank you for the advise
Welcome Ray,
I've owned 2 1872's. They are among my favorite workhorses. Both had about 1000 hours when I sold them. The only issues I had;
Both had a problem that fuel would bleed into cylinders after sitting a while.
That was fixed with an electric shutoff tied to ignition.
Both had rear frame bolts loosening and one snapped off.
Had to easy out the one and just developed a habit of putting a wrench on them several time a season to check.
The casters on the Haban were really hard to find replacements for and expensive!
The 60" Haban deck and 45" snowblowers were awesome.
If you get a chance, post some pics.
Curt
I've owned 2 1872's. They are among my favorite workhorses. Both had about 1000 hours when I sold them. The only issues I had;
Both had a problem that fuel would bleed into cylinders after sitting a while.
That was fixed with an electric shutoff tied to ignition.
Both had rear frame bolts loosening and one snapped off.
Had to easy out the one and just developed a habit of putting a wrench on them several time a season to check.
The casters on the Haban were really hard to find replacements for and expensive!
The 60" Haban deck and 45" snowblowers were awesome.
If you get a chance, post some pics.
Curt
1811Cub
Well-known member
The knock off coils are cheaper for a reason! They have less windings in them, so the spark plugs will not receive the same amount of voltage, possibly causing harder starting. Also, they will not last as long! Personally, I don't really enjoy removing the engine and rear tins, so do it once, do it right!
There are two options for the governor gear. A steel gear that was used in the early K series Kohler singles will go right in, OR Kohler has an updated nylon gear that should last longer than the original issue. To replace the gear, the aluminum engine block must be split.
Carefully check the flywheel magnets. It is common for them to come loose, possible damaging the magnets and the stator. This will cause a no charge condition.
Hi Ray mine has 769 hrs. on it and it runs great! the advice you have received from the others is great advise the only thing I could add it to watch the piston as it moves through the full travel and look for a piston cock or pitching in the cylinder this would be a good indicator of a worn piston skirt or a worn cylinder bore usually at the bottom of the stroke, just something to check for while it is opened up. P.S. I have a spare deck cradle that came with my tractor I will not be needing it just in case you need spare or extra parts for yours, I have no deck. my tractor is for 3-point lift implement groundwork and front blade only, maybe a pin on front loader in the future from p.f. engineering. the gravely takes care of my lawn cutting duties.
Welcome Ray. Enjoy the forum!Can you share some photos?
Welcome Ray. Enjoy the forum!
Attachments
She is a little ugly right now but I am steadily chipping away at it.
What 60 series big brother is in the background?
cubs4lifeofme
Well-known member
Welcome Ray, Nice project, I have been hunting for a 1872 with no luck...yet...enjoy the fun.
1959 560 gas. I bought it in 2001 and it has been a great tractor.
I grew up on a 560 gas, narrow front end... Dad still has it and uses it pretty much daily
