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Cub Loboy 154

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jbridenstine

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
8
displayname
Jared Bridenstine
Hi Guys,
I need some help.
I recently picked up a 154 loboy and am having a few problem.
I figure this would be the place to come. First off. I would like to say, I love this tractor... Now for the problems. It has smoke coming out of the dip stick tube running to the oil pan. Not sure what that is all about but it is probably not good. Next, It seems to be grosely underpowered just cutting grass that is 4~5 inches high?? I have been on one before that ran great so I am sure this probably relates back to the smoke from the dip stick somehow?? Lastly, the rear pto for the deck will not stay engaged. The guy that I purcahsed it from was using a pair of vice grips to hold it in place and said that every now and again while you are mowing you will need to lift up on the handle and set it back down to keep it going. This cub is in great shape. It was a one owner machine for the last 38 years and I have all the owners manuals and service records for everything.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 
Jared B: I own a 154. You have a long neglected tractor. You need the Parts Manual and the Service Manual and begin going through the tractor. From your description, it is in bad need of a tune up, carburetor adjustment/rebuild and to have the governor worked on.. A bit of smoke out of the dipstick tube tells you that there is some blow-by but that little ole IH C-60 engine can probably still "pull stumps"

Tip #1: (It's in the manual) there is a small plug between the governor housing and the distributor. Take it out and put in a grease Zerk so you can lube that sucker..just a bit, not too much. I give mine one shot about twice a year.

Tip #2) On the output shaft of the PTO, inside the pulley, you will find a grease Zerk which no one ever puts grease in (this,too, is in the manual). This grease zerk lubes the needle bearings which support and connects the mainshaft to the outputshaft. Put some in till you get a bit of resistance..Careful!!.. too much and it will cause grease to ooze out and then be slung into the dry clutch plates of the PTO. Those dry plates do not like grease!! I also grease this one about twice a year with 2-3 shots...

There is a set of detent balls that lock the PTO into place and a spring which causes the handle to stay up... You are gonna have to figure this one out (or find yourself a good mechanic...(not a shade tree parts changer!!). But, it is all in the Service Manual with the parts illustrated in the Parts Manual.

Hmmmm.. How many times have I now said Parts Manual and Service Manual?? Didja get the hint yet?? Ya gotta have'em!!

Printed manuals are available from Forum Sponsor Binder Books at www.binderbooks.com. I got mine from Case/IH (now CNH).

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Thanks for the manual and the information.
I will start with the grease and work my way back from there.
I am sure you will hear a lot of questions from me tomorrow night.
I have to work tonight so I will get started on it tomorrow. Also, I forgot to mention one thing.
When I got the tractor home it would start up and idle just fine. After about 15minutes of driving it around it started to shoot little smoking particles out of the exhaust pipe. The tractor never showed any lack of power or changes in performance so I am assuming that was just carbon built up. I was driving it around with the throttle opened up. The smoke coming off of the little pieces was yellowish in color and when youpicked up the particles they would just crumble and fall apart like ashes. Thanks for all of your help.
 
Thanks for the manual and the information.
I will start with the grease and work my way back from there.
I am sure you will hear a lot of questions from me tomorrow night.
I have to work tonight so I will get started on it tomorrow. Also, I forgot to mention one thing.
When I got the tractor home it would start up and idle just fine. After about 15minutes of driving it around it started to shoot little smoking particles out of the exhaust pipe. The tractor never showed any lack of power or changes in performance so I am assuming that was just carbon built up. I was driving it around with the throttle opened up. The smoke coming off of the little pieces was yellowish in color and when youpicked up the particles they would just crumble and fall apart like ashes. Thanks for all of your help.
 
Hi Guys,
Just bought a Cub Lowboy 154. It is missing the serial number plate on the frame. Any thoughts on determining the year?
Thanks Ray
 
HI Ray..

Locate a casting date and you can get close. Obviously, the casting was likely at least six months before manufacture...Castings have to cure before being machined.

Casting dates will have a *, 1 or 2 digits, a *, 1 or 2 digits, a *, a letter, and a *. They are also likely upside down...

NOTE: a Casting Date does not have an R-1 at the end..that's a part number...

Post it and I or others will "decode" it for you. (the letter is a year code)

Myron B
 
MYRON - Not sure how things were back in the 1940's, '50's, '60's and early 1970's, but by the late 1970's, as long as the casting was cool the chips were flying!

From casting date codes on the M & Super H there were a couple parts that must have gotten "LOST" for a while, and others that were still warm when they were clamped in the machine tool for the first operation. Except for one or two exceptions on each tractor most date codes are within a month of assembly.

Biggest problem with machining castings that soon after they're poured is they tend to relieve stress and move around a bit. Typically the fussy stuff would be roughed, then finish machined to size after most of the movement was done.

Some of the alloy steel castings made at the foundry in Bettendorf down along the river I used to work for a division of, They would actually age harden. Castings that were more than a year old would have to be machined with lower spindle RPM, feeds & speeds than normal. Some of my machine shops would actually ask if I was supplying a "New" or "Old" casting.
 
Dennis..You may be correct. I am not a machinist nor have I ever worked around machining operations. However, all the information I have gathered over the last 20 years or so has indicated that there was a "curing" time procedure at the Louisville plant and that only the oldest castings, in turn, went to the machining process.

This resulted in some delay between casting and assembly of a tractor. This delay may have included reasons other that "curing", but the huge amount of cast parts shipped to Brownsville at the time of the sale is indicative that there is some "fire in all this smoke".... There, in fact, was a delay between casting and production for whatever reason and I am convinced that "curing" played a role in that.

My point to Ray was that the Casting Number would get him close to the date his Lowboy 154 came off the assembly line. That was and is still true regardless of the amount of any "curing" delay.

Myron B
 
MYRON - ALL iron castings from IH foundries were "sealed", you've seen the nice brownish-red paint inside CC rearends on non-machined surfaces. It's not actually red-oxide primer but similar. Think we've discussed it hear before.

When I was dealing with IH foundries expediting castings for FARMALL I'd actually call the sub-contract sealing companies to get daily shipments every day. Most cases the parts shipped to the outside painter were shipped the next day and were put into production, machined as soon as they were received in Rock Island. I'd talk to the production control people at the foundries so I'd know when the castings were poured.

From the time cores & molds were made & assembled, (they're Perishable, they tend to accumulate Water or condensation, and molten 2100 degree iron and water DO NOT MIX!) the castings were poured same day or early next day, then cooled. Most LVL castings were small so cooling time was hours, not DAYS like some castings I've been around, then castings were "Cleaned", risers & gates broken off, maybe a little grinding of parting lines, Wheel-a-Brate to remove burned-on sand. Then sent to the painter for sealing, normally a dipping process, parts were still wet when they were put into wire baskets and loaded on the truck for the 500 mile trip to FARMALL.

Truck gets to FARMALL the next morning, company trucks normally got preferential treatment getting unloaded. Hot parts that production was waiting for went to the first machining department, other castings went to storage out on the "river bank".

Depending on the type and how elaborate the machining was greatly effected the in-process time. Some work centers were terribly over-loaded, other parts got ran just to keep people busy. I was a Production Scheduler for nine-ten months @ FARMALL in 1977, handled secondary gear machining operations and some hobbing & shaving in a 4-machine work cell run by two people on each shift, 1st & 2nd shifts only.

There were times when parts needed to be reworked, which in some cases went to outside machine shops with special types & styles of machines, also when machines would go down, those operations were farmed out to outside shops as well. ALL this added time to the machining process.

There are ways to relieve the inherent stresses in gray iron castings without just letting them sit. There's "Thermal stress relieving", think heat-treating, heating to a relatively low temp then cooling in a slow controlled manner; Also vibratory stress-relieving, not very effective on pump machine bases I've been involved with.

I agree, IF you have time with cast iron, waiting some time to let the casting age is better than machining castings that a day or two ago was scrap iron. But that increases inventory, which costs money, takes up valuable storage room, decreases manufacturing flexibility, and will ultimately cause interuptions in shipping finished product to customers.

I would agree that there probably are some castings on every IH product that were produced weeks, even months prior to the actual build date of the finished product but I can not agree that it was because of trying to age castings to relieve inherent stress. There were ALWAYS HOT parts that were always hand-to-mouth from production. And other parts never seemed to be a problem, except for too MUCH inventory. Some jobs just plain run easier, better, faster than others. During most of 1979, '80, & '81 IHC LVL had to pay for at least ONE air shipment a DAY for the transfer cases used in 2+2 tractors to keep FARMALL running. You can bet THOSE castings never sat around.

In my years working at IH plants I actually found them to be DECADES ahead of most manufacturing companies with their adoption of leading, or BLEEDING edge concepts. They had process control, LEAN or Just-in-time inventory down to a science back in the mid-1970's. They were ISO-compliant 20 years before most companies knew what it was. They had their own satellite for over-seas phone calls, I got my own personal work FAX machine compliments of BF Goodrich in 1979, otherwise most communication was via phone or TELEX. IH's computer system for inventory/production control back in the mid-1970's was "State-of-the-art" for small company systems popular and used today!
 
This discussion makes me think of this:

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KRAIG - Yep, today's technology would have saved IH Millions of Dollars decades ago. New bar code designs allow more information in the area the size of a finger nail than that whole punch card contained.

No such thing as PC's when I was at FARMALL. Every two people shared a terminal, and you needed a terminal for about everything, "INQUIRY ONLY". Any maintenance had a "Special Form" we had to send over to "Key Punch" every night then check the next morning to confirm it was done correctly. They printed up about half a PALLET of 11 x 17 green bar tractor feed paper EVERY night.

Ahhhhh, The GOOD old days.

Interesting IH trivia; On IH's corp. mainframe computer system, each plant had a number code. Farmall was #1 (of course!), E. Moline was #3. Not sure who #2 was, and I never dealt that much with LVL and can't remember their number, but they had three I think, one for castings, another for forgings, and another for machined parts. Three distinct management groups.
 
Today I was "offered" a IH Low Boy in line 4 cylinder tractor (cannot find serial # or any other identifying info) for $500 which includes a (rusted) snow plow and a new clutch (in box). It's been outside, not run, exposed to PA winters for three full years. Motor runs, transmission (I'm told) OK, tires are down but appear servicable, has PTO, metal work is below average and lights etc. will need replaced as the mounts are severely rusted. If bought today it will have to be transported. It comes with a 60" deck with heavy rust. I haven't been able to look underneath. I have nothing to compare this with and with your collective experience I need an opinion if this might be something to play with. The $500 is of little concern but the repair/parts and another winter outside costs are. My repair area consists of a 10' x 12' pad uncovered. I have no clue as to what I might be in to if purchased. Should I walk towards or run away? Anything I ought to ask the owner?
 
Gary S: Here is where you should have asked about that 154. I own a LowBoy 154. Like the Cub Cadets, they are well built and relatively simple to maintain IF you get the Operators Manual AND Service Manual AND the Parts Manual. They are available from Forum Sponsor Binder Books (click on the icon at the top of the page). Parts, in general, are readily available from multiple sources a well as Case/IH.

Ask the Owner about that mechanical dry-plate PTO clutch..does it work correctly?? They are pricey to rebuild. Otherwise, with use of those absolutely necessary manuals, a mechanically capable person can easily maintain it.

If you get it, post here and there will myself and others to help you with answers to questions and tips.

Myron B
WWW.CCSupplyRoom.com
 
They can do tricks like this under the proper (flood) conditions:
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smile.gif
 
I expect that I'll pass on the 154. I'd love to work on this but I believe to much will have to be put into it. I have not the space, and cold is two days away. The clutch is free moving as it sits now. Too bad. I kinda had my hopes up as I had not seen one of these before and it is the perfect size. By the way, was $500 asking anywhere near the value or would I have started badly. Thanks for the comment.
 
Gary S: I'm with Charlie... to each his own, but passing on a running Lowboy 154 for $500.00 doesn't pass my smarts test...

Myron B
 
I'll disagree with Myron and Charlie on this one. It's probably worth well more than $500 in parts. If it happens to have a 3-point hitch it's definitely worth the price in parts. As a project tractor I'd pass. Prices for Farmall Cubs and the 154 Lo Boys seem to have dropped precipitously over the past year. The 154s can still bring $2000+ around here in nice condition, but I've also been seeing several of them in good running condition for $1000 to $1200 that take a long time to sell. I'm in Indiana where these tractors are pretty common so your local market may be different. If you really want one of these tractors, take your time and find a decent one. IMHO, it's worth driving a bit for the right deal. If you don't know what you're getting into, I wouldn't get in.

Jerry
 
The Lo-Boy 154 I'm looking is priced for much more than Gary Smyth's in 2010, but I'm still curious. If I understand the rules correctly From Forum Rules, <font size="-2">("This is not an appraisal site!
Questions regarding the specific value of any particular unit, implement or whatever are not allowed. Any posts containing such queries will be removed. Asking if a certain amount for a tractor is worth buying it for is fine.")</font>,
I can ask if the tractor in the pictures is worth the asking price of $2,750.00 USD.

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253306.jpg


The reason I ask is because it is really in pretty rough shape. It looks like it has been sitting in the weather for many years, but someone got it started (sign says "Runs Good") and threw some paint on it. Personally, I don't feel that $2,750 is too bad if the loader and hitch are working; but they don't look "factory" to me. If only the tractor is considered, then the price seems kind of high --I've seen beautifully restored 154's advertised locally for $4,000.00.

Just curious what others think.

Note: I know that "It's worth what I'm willing to pay" or "What he'll take for it;" but I'm curious about what YOU (the reader) would be willing to pay for it.

I'm also interested in any comments about what is original and what has be "confuguliated" by the previous owner and seller. (This tractor is one of many that seems to be a product of a fellow in the neighborhood who likes to fix up smaller, Farmall-size tractors and re-sell them, he has several corners in this part of town where tractors of all brands keep appearing on a regular basis.)

Finally (to the moderators), I "employed" this thread, since it seemed to be on the same topic, rather than start a new one.
 

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