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Archive through September 28, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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ftopp

Member
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Nov 17, 2006
Messages
13
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Francis Topp
Jason, if you look under the tractor, as you pull on the clutch pedal, as if stopping the tractor, you should see a push in button switch with 2 wires, unless it has already been bypassed by hooking the 2 wires together
 
Troy,

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My suggestion...if its in decent shape, it runs or COULD run and the deck is included, and you can afford it. BUY IT! If it is really one of the VERY FEW around. Think of how it would feel to have it sitting in YOUR shed?

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Lonny B,
BTDT on the 100 starter button, I feel your pain. As I recall I needed a long extension with a swivel end and a big screw driver. Only difference was my button stuck on. I turned it off and it kept right on cranking over until I unhooked the battery. I got a replacement at Fleet Farm. They're slightly longer than the orginal starter button, but around 10 bucks if I remember right, and bolt right it.
 
Norm B. Did you ever get your jerky hydro problem fixed on your 682? If so, what was the solution or what did it take to fix the problem?
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Paul B. and Shane S. About that Cub Cadet with the front mount Woods mower. If it's in eastern Iowa yet then that shouldn't be a problem to track it down. The biggest problem for me is gettng back there to begin the process.

Everyone have a wonderful day.
 
Andrew S,

I've seen it the other way around where someone took a wide frame lift hitch casting and cut one end down to fit a narrow frame, which about made me cry, but I've never seen a narrow frame sleeve lift hitch adapted to a wide frame. The entire upper part of the lift assembly (lift bar link, attachment plate and lift lever arm) is different between a narrow frame and wide frame and it would be very difficult in time and effort to adapt it. I'd recommend you place a want ad in the classifieds here on the forum for a wide frame sleeve hitch. If you have a narrow frame hitch you could also post an ad to sell it or do a trade. I'm sure someone here on the forum can help you out.
 
GLEN C. - I don't really agree with you about ag lugged tires tearing up the yard. On hills and in ditches a lugged tire won't spin near as easily as a turf tire which will easily spin and tear up the turf.

I still have the 4.00/4.80X8 GY rib tires on the frt of both the 70 & 72. Both sets need to be replaced, I'd like to have Vredestiens V61's but they don't make anything in that size. I'll probably get some Deestone 4.00X8's. So I really can't comment yet on 3-rib fronts.

My 982 has Firestone 26-12.00X12's which has fewer lugs than the 23-8.50 Firestones I have on the 72 and I can see where the lugs bend over the grass when I mow with the 982, but the grass stands back up in a couple days or after the first rain shower. The 23-8.50's I really don't see that. The new 23-10.50 Firestones Miller Tire sells have the same number of lugs as the 23-8.50's so they should not leave marks either.

I try to stay off the grass when it's wet. Back in '93 we had ALL kinds of rain all summer. I remember mowing with the 72 on day and the ground was so wet the depressions where the tires ran filled up with rain water about five feet behind the tractor. I still had the 6-12 GY Turfs on it then. Took YEARS for those depressions to disappear.
 
I got the stubborn hydro lever off of the 107,It took some heat,pry bars,mallet and some penetrating oil.I started lifting it with the pry bars after some heat,sprayed and hit it back down.It took about 12 ups and downs before it came off.
 
Norm, You have to look at the tires as a piece of the system. If you go to ags to try to control wheel spin mabey the wheel spin isn't the problem but a symptom. Everything must be taken into account from the geography of the area, your soil conditions, to what you wiegh. I used to live on a farm where the front yard had a hill I had to mow, I ended up with loaded 10.50's and 2 link chains. I wieghed about 325 then. I can't go with wider tires they won't fit in between the cast end deck. That was enough. I'm not trying to be simplistic I don't know your yard or how you use your tractor. My 149 is a plow tractor with 12 12 26 loaded tires 45 pd wieghts. It will tear up grass but you just about have to try hard to make it happen.
 
Boy, you ask a simple question about a tire for tilling and before long Charlie's smoking at the collar. I guess I should have asked in the Sandbox.

Eddie B.-

I hope you have an extra axle AND spindles around.
 
Ah the tire debate lol. I will add my .02 and say that the super lugs are a hard compound tire.I like them on my loader with chloride and a set of 75 lb weights and IH weights. I have a back weight of 150+ amo box full of melted wheel weights I got from Frank C . The loader will spin the super lugs but because they are a hard compound they are not tore up like my tru powers would be on the loader.
The tru powers are a very soft compound and with 50 lbs of IH weights they give great traction and don`t tear up the ground much at all.I think I would run them on a grass mower tractor instead of turfs. I find turfs spin way to easy even with weight on wet grass and will burn the grass. Because of that burn it takes some time till that damage is gone.Chains spin way to easy on my paved drive and for that reason I will not use them again.I made quite a few marks on the new drive with turfs and 2 link chains pushing snow the first winter it was paved.I do like the V61 on my 1512 ,they steer great even on a snow covered drive. I have 3 ribs on my 100 but never used it in snow to tell how they work. They just look right on a tractor.

Eddie Burton

I have given some thought to adding forks to my loader bucket and might do that mod someday. I have a few jobs to do yet and this fall I will get back in my shop and finish some tractors I have started to refurb. (my O and the 125)
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Wayne S.,
Yesser, I do but hope I won't need them. More concerned about the spindles. Need to do the upgrade but will probably wait until after I get the backhoe built for it. Little more to it than the loader. Built the loader about three years ago and it seems that everything I do with it is beyond what I should be doing. Figure it would be easier to fix the tractor than my back.
 
Need some asssistance here. I have a QA42A snow blower and am rebuilding the gear box - shaft, bearing, seals. Is it set up for a speed reducer or increaser? I can't get the shaft to align with the large gear when set up as a speed reducer so am wondering if it should be speed increaser or is there some special trick to assembling it. Thanks
 
Wayne S.,
I assumed you were talking about the front axle but got to thinking maybe you were talking about the rear. Tractor is a 149.

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Dave Ross

(I never had good luck with ags on ice.)

I have to agree with that, even chains just by them selves are not much good.I will have my snow blower running and I think the blade on my ATV for snow plowing this winter, I find chains to hard on the drive way.
 

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