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Archive through September 22, 2018

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kide

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Joined
Aug 27, 2006
Messages
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Gerry Ide
Charlie: but...but..but...... you never told ME I did it the hard way. 8 years, NOW I find out?
 
Keith S.
So the question is!
Since Roland and the guys on OCC are pretty sharp.
What is it that you didn't care for that they told you that made you come to the forum and ask the same thing? Just curious.
 
I have always split the tractor to replace that gasket. I find it's much easier to clean all the debris off to minimize chances of any of it getting in the transaxle. You can jack under that pad, or about anywhere you want except on the suction tube and you won't hurt anything.
 
Got an engine hoist or something similar?
I support the front of the trans from above after installing jack stands under the frame, leave the wheels on, disconnect everything and roll the whole assy out the ass end of the cub, then stand it on end.

Of course, this comes in very handy for that!!

322600.jpg
 
When I replaced the gasket again, with the correct one this year, on dad's 1450, I just removed the fenders. Slid the engine forward to remove driveshaft and like Charlie said. But since you have it so far apart Keith, just take it all down and clean and inspect everything. Yes you'll have to support the frame a axle. A hoist from above would be best, but use what you got
 
I think I just have to take out the remaining bolts on each side and go from there.

Digger...since you inquired about my having asked a similar question on the other (OCC) forum, I emailed you a reply. I won't go into any of that here.
 
Keith S.
Got the email, THANKS!

Since this is your first go round, you would be better off dropping the rear end,That way you can get a good idea on how things work by having a better view of the whole thing.
You can do it, I know you can!
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Was it baked on? I'm not sure what to make of that. Was he baked?
 
I'm almost finished with rejuvenating the flame 100. The hood needs some slight paint cleanup sanding and a shot of clear, the decals are waiting, and it still needs the wiring harness, steering column, and steering wheel.

My 13 year-old son was doing what he could to help with reassembly yesterday. A funny story, we were installing the fenders when I realized I didn't remember painting the cross-rod. I couldn't even remember where I put the cross-rod during disassembly. We both searched the shop and the house for over an hour before I decided to look at the "before" photo. It never had a cross-rod! I showed him the value of keeping round-stock and a welder handy to make new parts.

It is nice to see his eyes get big seeing how nice the tractor looks as it goes back together.

Thank you so much to Charlie at CC Specialties and Aaron with Xtreme Motorworks for keeping high-quality parts available for endeavors like this. The new hood is beefy!

322613.jpg
 
Was there supposed to be a cross rod on the fenders of the 70-100 series? Never had one on my 70. No holes in the fenders either.
 
Kendal, I can't find any images of the 70/100 series with the cross-rod. I don't know what I was thinking except there were empty holes where one should go..

I'm not taking it out though!
 
I guess I was browsing the sponsors too much. This was for Xtreme's 70/100 fender kit.

Nobody tell my son that I showed him how to create a part that didn't need to exist.

322615.jpg
 
Hmmm... I have 5 sets of round fenders for the 70,71,72,73,100 Cub Cadets. All have the extra holes. Always figured the holes just got carried over in the tooling from the fenders for an Original.
 

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