Archive through September 07, 2009

[thenrie]

Hi guys. I recently acquired a 1650 that came with a house I bought. I found it hiding in the bushes, where it has been for who knows how long. Anyway, I've got the bug to restore it to working order. I noticed a warning tag on it that indicates the transmission may sustain damage if it is towed or pushed. I would hate to cause damage to it by towing it to my workshop. Can I tow it a hundred yards or so without damaging the tranny?

Tony

 

[tpowers]

How can I identify which carb kit I need for my 63 Original. It does not have the oil bath air cleaner.
Also, I see no markings on the top of the piston. Can I assume that the bore is std? It is smoking a little under load and at startup. The bore looks pretty good, can I hone the cylinder with a bead hone and install new rings. Budget is a little tight right now.
thanks,
Tony

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tony, I believe the 7hp Kohler uses the "25 757 01" carb kit. Also there are two different throttle/choke kits for the K161 depending on the throttle bracket.

 

[rpalmer]

Tony Marvin,
Check your valves settings. That might be part of your smoking.

 

[mstetar]

(tony H) it will be fine as long as yor not doing like 30!... plut there should be a lever on the tunnel cover in front of the seat that will dissengage the hydro... or it may have auto relif valves... im not sure which
oh and tony, when you get it too the shop take some pics for us, because

 

[mstetar]

well i can see everyones in a posting mood so i finished up the original model on my identification page if anyones interested in
http://www.exedown.us/?page_id=17
the next set of pictures ill be needing is a 70 so if anyones got one that is all original or correctly restored give me a holler. the pics should be taken as the others on the site are taken straight front, straight side, side, and straight rear
hope you guy's like it... eventually i want to have the manuals linked to the model pages...(thanks to whoever reccomended that one) but im doing it little by little
let me hear some feed back!

 

[dross]

Matt, Thats kinda cool, the only thing I'd add is shipping wieght, That question seems to come up ever now and then for various models.

 

[dtanner]

Matt Stetar (Mstetar) A great job there on the site. I think i`ll paint my O this winter if i`am able to.Thanks for putting my O there on your site. Manuals with the weight of each Cub Tractor is good info to have .
Today i`ll have some help to install all the loader frame on my 129 and will post a picture when we get finished. The hood and grill won`t be installed today because I need to have some of the hyd lines cut and shortened for a neater look.
Out to the garage I`am going at 7.15 am because my help will arrive at 9.00 this morning. Later Don T

 

[T-Mo]

Matt S.,

Nice site. I also have a page started with a similar idea as yours:

http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index.php?showforum=2

It also includes implements, attachments, videos, brochures, etc. I like the idea of the write up for each model.

 

[thenrie]

Thanks Matt. I'll be sure to post some pics. I can tell already this is not going to be a "cost-effective" restoration, but I get warm fuzzies from taking things that don't work anymore and fixing them.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Quite a while back Jonathan Luckey created a Cub Cadet model index website.

 

[thenrie]

Just a couple questions regarding parts availability, before I start working on my 1650. Since the thing is at least 30 years old, and has been sitting in the Virginia woods for a good portion of that time, the rear fenders are pitted and rusted, including some rust-through in the foot-pad area. I noticed that the sites shown at the top either don't offer the fender metal or list it as "out-of-stock". Are such parts still being manufactured by anyone, or will I have to get them used? My other option is to weld them up myself, but I'd rather save the work time by just getting decent parts. The rest of the sheet metal just has surface rust and will be easily restorable with some elbow grease, paint, and decals.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tony, welcome!

The fenders and most any part should be readily available used but you may have to do some looking. Many parts are still available new and some are available as reproduction parts. The classifieds here and the sponsors (see above) are a good source for parts.

 

[rwilke]

Mornin' Fellas,

A while back there was considerable discussion here regarding the removal of the balance gears ('grenade gears') from the Kohler engines that were originally fitted with them.

After finding some C-clip pliers that have long enough arms to reach the C-clips, I'm fairly certain that the gears will slip off their respective spindle/peg. I suspect by turning/moving the crank & cam some, the gears will come out of the crankcase without breaking them, preventing metal shrapnel from being scattered inside. The one engine I've got that experienced a "grenade gear explosion", it was the gear that broke, not the pin becoming dislodged or breaking. So, my questions are:

1) I suspect they are pressed into a machined hole inside the crankcase, correct?

2) Will the pin fall out down the line?

3) Can it / should it also be pulled out?

4) What have you guys that have pulled out the gears done with the pins/spindles?

Thanks in Advance for any & all of your input!

Ryan Wilke

 

[aaytay]

Ryan-
How ever you do it, make the gears go "Bye-Bye".

Leave the stub-shafts....they make a nice place to hang a pair of fuzzy-dice.

 

[dfrisk]

ART - How "FUZZY" are Your dice inside the crankcase at 3600 rpm?

RYAN - As was discussed You may or may not be able to remove the gears without engine disassembly. I took a set out of a K301 without disassembly or breaking gears, but the second gear took a while.
The stub shafts are pressed into machined bores, just make sure You get all the shim washers off the shafts and leave the bare shafts in the block. The balance gears actually slide in & out on the shafts when the engine is running due to changes in engine speed and the fact they're helical gears, so the shafts HAVE to be secured into the block pretty well or the whole shaft, gear, bearing, shim washers, etc. would slide out away from the side of the block, hit the crankshaft throw and destroy the engine.

 

[rwilke]

Thanks, Art !

I won't sweat the stub-shafts then.... but I will start looking for some <font size="-2">very small dice</font> for them!

Ryan Wilke

 

[rwilke]

Dennis F.,
I guess that was kinda what I was getting at in a roundabout way of asking/wondering, if the grenade gear explosions were due to strictly the gears coming apart or maybe linked to the stub-shafts coming loose within the block and they being the root cause for the famed catastrophic engine failure.
After removing the gears, shims,washers, etc., I just wouldn't want the dang stub-shafts coming loose from inside the block & bouncing around in there!

Ryan Wilke

P.S.
Yeah, I'd bet those dice wouldn't stay 'FUZZY' too long....

 

[ncostello]

I have some questions about my red 782...built shortly after 1981. Should I post them here or in the MTD/CCC forum? I've always posted them here...as I always did before the MTD/CCC forum existed. Seems like I always got away with it since it was a 782.

They're special aren't they? I want to do the proper thing however.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Neil, seeing that the 782 is an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> design, you can post about it here.