• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through September 02, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Frank,
You can use peanut butter to get gum out of hair, maybe it will work for tanks too...
err.gif
 

Attachments

  • err.gif
    err.gif
    251 bytes · Views: 139
Tom F. -

The Quiet Lines were designed to be properly cooled with all side panels and air ducts in place, so you needn't worry about cooling as long as you keep all the crud like grass clippings and nests out of there.

A few of us (myself included) run 10W30 synthetic year 'round. I use Mobil 1 and a bit of MMO in the gas tank ONLY.

Perhaps our resident "engine engineer" Cap'n Kirk will chime in...
 
Just talked to the "Powers that be" from the Lake Counry Farm Heritage Assn. that will be having there "Fall Festival" Sept. 24-25 in Wauconda, Ill. They are going to have a "For fun and stock" Lawn & Garden tractor pull at their show this year. They will be having it on Saturday after the parade (1:00 I think) and on Sunday morning about 10:ish.

Lots of cool old cars, trucks, tractors, machinery, and other thigs too!
 
I need to cultivate (after tilling) under the apple trees in my orchard.

Is there a drag behind impliment that gives complete tillage and is limited to a couple of inches in depth??
 
Seats, (again)

Well, I searched the archives and found a spattering of info on replacing seats that have seen too much weather, neglect and sun. Kenny Morrow referred to the fact that replacements are no longer available, but recommended getting CC seats, since they would fit the bolt holes, yet said that most replacements didn't fit without cobbling together some sort of adapter plate.

My 782 seat is a bit torn in the back and some of the pressure points have the gold foam showing through. The shell seems to be good, fortunately. Will the automotive upholstery shops laugh long and hard if you bring one of these in?

Kenny, if you still are on the air, can you clarify your remarks from back in July about going the extra $ for a CC seat, are you suggesting then that we should contact one of the fine sponsors of this board for a seat, or did I not catch your drift on your comment? Thanks for info. Dale
 
Dale,
FWIW, here ae some snapshots of the 2000 series highback cubseat I grafted onto my 149's stock mounts. I used 'Riv-nuts' (which are threaded rivits) to adapt to the IHCC bolt pattern. It has a CC logo embossed onto the vinyl, and set me back about a $100 clams at my local CC dealer, ECK Lawn and Garden in Nedrow, NY...

30566.jpg


30567.jpg


(Message edited by stanner on September 05, 2005)

(Message edited by stanner on September 05, 2005)
 

Attachments

  • 30566.jpg
    30566.jpg
    28.8 KB · Views: 131
  • 30567.jpg
    30567.jpg
    25.6 KB · Views: 135
  • 30566.jpg
    30566.jpg
    28.8 KB · Views: 141
  • 30567.jpg
    30567.jpg
    25.6 KB · Views: 135
Dale R.

I bought a new seat for my 682 from an above sponsor for 48.00 It was the parts book replacement. Bolted right on.
 
Lyle:

It wasn't the acetone...it was the gum/varnish from inside the tank. It smells to high heavens...

I soaked them in dial dishwashing soap with bleach...finally came out.

Stil not done...tank is setting outside tonite with chem-dip and rocks in it. Will aggitate in morning and see it it is clean enough.

I have cleaned a lot tanks over the years. This was the worst by far.

The original runs nicely after cleaning the carb and rigging a fuel tank. Surprising that it does not smoke....has not run in years from the looks of the fuel system.
 
Bryan and Tom,

While employed at a major small engine manufacturer, I learned the advantages of using a synthetic in air-cooled engines. I was in charge of testing different 4-stroke engine oils for extended drain intervals. Reduced oil consumption, less internal wear, and visibly cleaner oil at oil changes was the result of using synthetics. Mobil 1 and Amsoil 10W-30 performed identically, and were far and above the best straight 30 wt mineral oil.

Here's a picture of straight 30 wt mineral oil after 160 hours of endurance without an oil change. Stuff gets so viscous that it won't lubricate properly (Jello from Hell). Engine ended up throwing con rod thus ending test. Engine running synthetic went full 250 hours without breaking.
30569.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 30569.jpg
    30569.jpg
    38 KB · Views: 136
  • 30569.jpg
    30569.jpg
    38 KB · Views: 140
Thanks David K. and Bryan M. for sharing your experiences with systhetic lubes is Kohler air-cooled engines. I think I'm going to switch over to Mobil 1 synthetic on my next oil change. Thank.
 
Fred Morski,

You asked about some carb cleaners. I once found some stuff called Tyme at my local Big A/ Carquest. It worked great for some VW carbs I was rebuilding. I did not even need to agitate the parts. Just soak and they came out clean. Then I rinsed them with water and blew them out with air. More recently I have come to swear the purple cleaners available at Advance/Auto Zone and etc.. These do an incredible job on grease and oil. While it may not be important to you but it was for me, both Tyme and some of the Purple cleaners are safe for Aluminum.
 
Anyone know what size of bolt to use to mount the grill casting of an original to the frame itself? My 3 year old lost them... seriously.
 
Rick M, yeah the 169, the forgotten wideframe, notice that Wyatt forgot about his. :eek:)

Scott T., nice workbench. :eek:p
 
Forum Folks- Battery question- bought a 122 last summer and have always been puzzled over the battery wiring. The + on the battery goes to the frame of the tractor and neg to the starter!! It starts fine and runs fine but this seems strange. My 66 MG is wired this way but all those blokes in England did this. Has someone converted this thing to positive ground? Thoughts? Dave
 
Kraig


thx.. ya know, when the other benches fill up, you gotta improvise!!

biggrin.gif
 

Attachments

  • biggrin.gif
    biggrin.gif
    419 bytes · Views: 142
Just checking...

Anyone here catch any spyware, adware or trojans while visiting this site? My site (right - Apache/Linux is gonna catch/spread malware)? Any of our sponsors' sites?

I didn't think so.

It's absolutely amazing how many people (ESPECIALLY those purportedly in the IT world that SHOULD know better) don't have the slightest clue as to the modus operandi of these little "creatures" and will assail someone with undocumented claims of spreading electronic pestilence.
 
Bryan, I think I caught a more virulent strain of Yellow and White fever after visiting this site. I did however have a mild version prior to visiting the first time back in the late 90's....... :eek:)
 
But there's not been much effect on my PC unless you count the folders full of CC pictures that keep showing up.......
 
Kraig -

And here I was afraid someone was gonna run with the word "trojans"...
lol.gif
 

Attachments

  • lol.gif
    lol.gif
    158 bytes · Views: 143

Latest posts

Back
Top