Archive through September 02, 2005

[djohnson]

Hello, Friends
DanZ back again after a few years (yes, Brian, I remembered my password, eventually). It's been about six years since I rebuilt the S-G on my first 122 (I now have three), and the other day the unit died. Looked like a short inside the armature somewhere. I happened to have a new armature on the shelf, so the rebuild was pretty easy. But upon removing the S_G, I realized that the bolt holding the support arm to the engine block was loose. Must have been so for for quite awhile, because the head was worn down by half from rubbing against the pulley for the S-G belt. And the threads were almost entirely gone! So... it looks like I need to drill out the hole a bit and retap it a size larger. Which means removing the PTO clutch and starter pulley. Which gets me to my problem: I've loosened the three set screws on the PTO pulley, but the clutch will not come off. The Blessed Service Manual says it should pop off. But about 40 years have passed since this unit was new.
Any usefull hints on removing the PTO?

Thanks,

DanZ

 

[kmoe]

Dan z,
Look for three more set screws below the ones you loosened. The top three act as locking screws to keep the lower set screws tight.

 

[djohnson]

Kyle, Thank you.
Do I remove the set screws that I loosened, to reveal the second set of screws?

 

[bbaker]

Dan Z, there are 6 set screw total. After removing the first set of three you can remove the second set of three. Every hole has 2 set screws one on top of the other. I liked to never get my pulley off. a little heat fianlly helped though. I was pulling the motor completly apart though so I was't worried about the crank seal behind the pulley. Good Luck!

 

[djohnson]

Great, Bryan, that worked. Now to get off the bearing and pulley!It's like working on an old house. One small problem launches a landslide. Oh well, won't hurt to rebuild the PTO, now that it's off.

(Message edited by djohnson on September 04, 2005)

 

[fmorski]

Posted a question this morning. Only part of it made it.

I was looking for information regarding where to find an ignition switch for my 169.

The rest posted.

 

[fmorski]

What is the best cleaning agent to get out gum from in a gas tank and carb?

Working one of my originals and have the carb and tank off...GOBS of GUM....

Carb Cleaner...Acid dip type won't touch it.

(Message edited by fmorski on September 04, 2005)

 

[jsimpson]

Travis, you can have the deck. I've got no way of getting it down here anyway. If that guy from down here in central Florida who brought my other deck for me wants it, he can have it next time he comes by your place.

 

[bmcmeen]

Bruce M. -

Julie's the accountant at Marlowe's/Toscana in Palatine (and Chessie's in Barrington), so I don't need to spend my money at Emmetts. Way overpriced for what it is, anyway. No wonder the owner lives in Long Grove...

Besides, without an FFV, E85 is pretty darn useless to me anyway

Frank M. -

Well, I got a nice used one from Houtz's not that long ago for my 107 (same switch). Or you can do what the PO (not Tedd!) did and cram any old ignition switch you can find in there...

<font size="-2">you didn't really expect any of our sponsors to list EVERY discrete part of a Cub Cadet, didja?

</font>

 

[digger]

Frank M,
I have good luck with plain ole lacquer thinner and if they really get nasty, Easy Off oven cleaner eats everything, INCLUDING PAINT!!!!!!!

 

[dhuck]

Hi everybody,
I'm a new user and have been lurking for a couple of weeks--really a great forum and I've already learned a lot.
I've got a 129 that I think needs the starter rebuilt. I have to manually turn the engine to get to a spot where the starter will operate. Does this sound like the brushes need to be replaced? Is this a tough job? Where is a good place to buy a rebuild kit?
Thanks in advance for any information you can provide.

 

[digger]

David H,
You might well have a bad S/G but the first thing I would do is check your grounds. Take'um loose, clean'um up really well and see if anything changes.
I do the easy stuff first.

 

[jgeorg]

Talking grounds. How do you handle the battery ground. Depend only on the bolt threads or clean between the fenders and frame too? Same with the front ground to the starter-gen bolted on top the grill. Another semi lurker heard from.

(Message edited by jgeorg on September 05, 2005)

 

[fmorski]

Bryan..

Travis e-mailed and said it is the same as a 147 switch. He did some digging this morning.

I had tried his site but he stopped with 147's. That was why I was searching...Tried all the locals after Travis and nobody had anything close.

Am having Travis get me one.

Digger....I filed the tank with rocks and carb acid dip. Let it set for a while...aggitated...set...aggitated...and on and on...is getting pretty clean. Maybe one more day.

The sediment bowl was filled to the top with varnish..got it on my hands and it will not come out. Tried the lacquor thinner...acetone and naptha. The acetone seems to cut it somewhat. The smell is what is bad...can't get the smel out of my hands.

This is the worst I have ever had...Must have sat for a 1/4 century. Came out of Western KY.
Nice original complete with fenders and deck. Real straight.

I wish I had this kind of luck..
couple of blocks away, Serial No. 745 and all the attachments...and then to even get to steal it...oh yeah...the engine smokes....I would have cared less if it even had an engine. What luck..especially for a yard sale.

(Message edited by fmorski on September 05, 2005)

 

[fmorski]

David H.

Sounds like one of the windings is bad. That is why you have to roll it to a sweet spot. One or more of the series of windings is OPEN. When the brushes are on the bad winding, nothing happens. Roll it to where it has good windings and it will spin. Once it starts to spin, it will roll past the bad winding or two. You are loosing power in the S/G by having bad windings.
Most local parts stores can get bebuilt ones. Counterclockwise rotation....JD's won't work..Wrong rotation. I used to get my at Carquest until they left town.

 

[bmoore]

Bryan,
I knew about the Julie connection, I was just thinking of what was close to the station. Do any of her places brew their own beers?
None of my vehicles would run E85 the way they are either. I thought it might be a neat experiment with a CC, though.

 

[bmcmeen]

Bruce M. -

We prefer our poison in 750ml bottles.

Googling, I came up with a university project to do an E85 snowmobile - http://www.mtukrc.org/download/mankato/mankato_design_paper_2005.pdf - I think we have enough cold starting issues with Cub Cadets without having to hang heaters on the dang thing to get E85 to vaporize

 

[lbaker]

Frank- Try washing your hands in rubbing alcohol
to get rid of the acetone smell.

 

[nbartee]

It looks like I have a bad # 2 cylinder (corrosion) on my M18 and will either need to be re-bored or find a used replacement with a good bore (anyone?). The # 1 is good to go. My question is, is there such a thing as just boring & re-sizing one cylinder or must they be done in pairs? Also, will a # 2 off of a KT17 series II work?

Thanks

 

[tfesenmyer]

Do any of you guys ever use oil other than SAE 30 in your cubs? I think we all agree that MMO is a pretty good additive, but what about heavier oils like SAE 40 or a multigrade like 5W-50? I have a 1650 that I use for mowing only (no cold weather operation) and would think that a heavier oil with a 1650 with the side panels and very little convection cooling would be a good thing. Any one have any experience with different lubes?