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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Scott S.

I had the same problem on my 1250. I stich welded (on edge) a piece of 1/8" x 1" flat stock on my lift bar.
 
I believe if I were ever to break my front axle on my 1250, it would call for a new one to be fabricated out of CR steel-- it would be a fun project.
 
Scott I have that problem on my 147 and there is no end to it. You fix the rod then add weights and chains and if the rod don't bend then you break something else. I welded .5 angle on mine then bent it so i just push smaller loads. Just my2c.
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Scott S., search for "ramming speed" with the quotes...

Mr. Mcgiver, good to see you post.
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Hope all is well.
 
Kraig..
rotflmao!!
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Ramming speed!!!

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To move it back on topic, The 149 gets a date with the DA this weekend, I need to shoot more yellar paint on the frame, engine, and trans so i can bolt them together....
 
Scott T., I didn't mean do a internet search, I meant do a forum search...
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Ge i`am having so much fun today. Got some parts from Frank C and all the parts ordered for my 1512 D. So i`am off to the cub garage and remove the engine and run some front hyd lines for the front ports and rear ports I want to install. I plan on a power dump trailer for the tractor.Hope you all are having a great Cub Day. Later Don T
 
Kraig,
I searched for 'rod' in a post below and found Scott S diagrams.... The phrase "Ramming Speed" bring back memories of a favorite movie of mine, hence the post..

I need to make a lift rod like pictured... The one I have now has a piece of angle iron attached to it, and is fugly...
 
Dennis:
Yup, the REALLY good Ford 9" center sections are nodular iron... I've got three of 'em waiting to go in the F-100 (different gears - I'm waiting to see if I can find a BOP overdrive tranny to go behind the Pontiac engine before I pick which one) and NONE have the right markings to be NI
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A broken axle here and there might suggest that different pours might have had different yield/break points (like maybe and old foundry guy versus a new one??). I guess we could start a survey on broken axles - NF versus WF...
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Are the bent lift rods happening because the handle is being locked down?? Since I filled all the segments of the lift handle ratchet (look it up..) with bronze rod (I got tired of fighting the lift handle lock button about two years after I got the 129), I can't lock the handle in anything other than full up lift. I can see if you're dozing you'd want down force, but for pushing snow, it'd shouldn't need to be that great.. BTW - ramming speed can lead to bent belt buckles...OOOOFFFFFFF!!
 
Has anyone ever thought about upgrading/modifying/rigging a cub rear to make a limited slip or locking rear? While mine is out of the tractor, and empty of Hy-Tran, If there is a solution, I wouldn't mind trying it...
 
KENDELL - In all my years of buying castings there's been a LOT of times where a foundry engineer, a single person, makes a change to the gating/risering on a casting pattern and either the casting gets much better or it turns into instant scrap.

Ford used a LOT of nodular iron, remember those awesome 351 Cleveland engines from back around 1969 to 1970/'71. They were the highest winding V-8's made, yeah, yeah, I know the original Z-28 302 was right up there....but the Cleveland crankshaft was ductile/nodular iron.

SON has a pair of 4-bbl Cleveland heads out in the shop now for a future project. Maybe a fun little Ranger p/u.

I wish Ford had never stopped using the 9 Inch rearend, My '78 F-150 had one with Traction-Loc. Seems like every 8.8" rearend I've had has needed repair. Son's '93 Lightning has a "Special" (ohhhh I hate that word!) Super-Duty 8.8, and it still breaks. That's why Gen II Lightnings got the 9.75" rearend.
 
Scott:
You'd have to find a unit that would replace the current ring gear carrier, be consistent with the current axle splines, and like the Hytran lube.. Don't even think about welding the spiders up unless all you do is drive in a straight line.... I use the good 'ol "shift yer butt" traction control...
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Dennis: (OT) The Ford 9" I've got is from a '57 station wagon - supposedly the narrowest of 'em all and also the most desirable for hot rods with visible rear ends, as it has the "full moon" center cover. Kid sold it to me for $75.00 - I was just about to seal the deal on a $600.00 '66 Mustang rear end when I stumbled across it..
 
Thanks guys! I found the pics of the one I was thinking of that Scott T. had links to. The one I was thinking of was one that Steve Blunier had fabbed. Now to test out my welding "skills" and re-fab the one I made yesterday!
 
Hey guys , i have some questions-
1. I put a new rear transmission gasket on my 147 late last spring because the old one was squeazed so tight between the rear cover and transmission that it started to leak. Now the"new" gasket is leaking, but I cant see where. I have checked the bolts to see how tight they are they are very snug.

2. where can I get those anti rattle spring for the FRONT pto cutch on a 124 and and are they available?

That is all I can think of right now. Thx in advance.
 
Josh:
1: I can't see the leak either...
2: If they're not available, you can't get them there.....
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, but if they're available, it would most likely be from someone selling parts for an IHC Cub....
 
Josh, I might have a set (3 in a set) of those anti-rattle springs for the front PTO. I never use them as they usually fly out shortly after a rebuild. If I still have them, I'll try to remember to check tonight, you can have them for the postage cost.
 
Scott,
Not sure if you want to go this route but, pulling tractors use the Dart 7.25 rears in their pulling setups. There are actually some 7.25 Sure-Grip carriers out there. They were used in 1965-66 Formula S Barracudas and also in some Darts. You can still find them albeit a little expensive but they work if you really want one.
 
KENDELL - Yes, there's been many versions of the 9", think there was an article in Hot Rod mag years ago that showed all the variations. Not sure which version My old '78 F-150 had, it was a 3.50 ratio Traction-Loc and it was bullet-proof! FORD still makes the components to build a 9" axle but You have to weld it yourself.

Son's Lightning would have a 9" under it except it has the speed sensor ring between the diff case & ring gear, NO way to add that to a 9", many have tried. Parts are in the shop now for a narrowed rearend & Detroit Locker diff. 4-link Ladder bars with leaf springs will be the rest of the rear suspension.

JOSH O. - Most likely problem with Your rear cover gasket is the rear cover is distorted around the bolts. If they're over-tightened the metal gets bent and really squeezes the gasket by the bolts but doesn't compress the gasket between the bolts. Use a good straight edge against the cleaned-up cover and a little work with a hammer fixes it up. If anything, You want the bolt holes high
 
Kraig, I talked to the guy with the 71 today to get directions to his place. He told me the cub had a blade for the front, it just wasn't in the pics cause he had never put it on. Said the cub came down here from Yankee land, that the PO had used it for pushing snow. I guess that means it has the dozer attatchment you asked me about
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Mike H., yep sounds like the entire blade setup is there.
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