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kmcconaughey

kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Charlie, oh well. Perhaps my theory/ramblings that the rear drawstring tie seat cover are prototypes and were used for brochure photos only.
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Or a change occurred during the production life of the eat cover. Guess we'll never know for sure. Ummm, is that NOS cover for sale? Not that I could afford it...
 
Kraig...
Here is what I have,string in the front,just like sweatpants have on them....

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I guess that means the seat cover I bought at Red Power Roundup in 2009 is now correct.
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My 125 w/a 14HP quit on me today. It has been running good all year and it suddenly cut off and backfired one time. It will turn over and backfire weakley, but will not start. It is firing and gas is going thru the gas line. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
David, how strong of spark does it have? Sounds like it could be something in the ignition, perhaps the points are worn out, dirty/pitted or out of adjustment.
 
David,,look to the condenser I've had tractors fall flat when running and replace this item and have them fire right up....just my 2 cents..
 
How old is the plug ? I had this happen an changed the plug an it started right up. If that doesnt fix it id change the condenser.
 
Geesh,I make a comment an everyone gets quiet
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I took a shower today ....Im feeling the love here...lol
 
Art: I second Don's comment --sweet looking tractor!

David: The points will wear out mechanically (the fiber cam follower wears out), the points close and hence the current is not interrupted so no "spark" is able to form. The condenser is prone to breakdown electrically (the dielectric breaks down), so (1) check your point's gap (and whether they're pitted) and (2) replace the condenser just for the hell of it --you'll be glad you did.

Harry Bursell would tell you to check your timing with a timing light, but I'm with Charlie --put a matchbook to the points and be done with it. Unless the point's push rod has seen a lot of wear you should be good to go. At least it will start. just my 2 cents (or whatever that is Canadian).
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Art, Ya beat me to it!! But, I'm not far behind, on the thrower that is! The Tractor is a whole different story however!!

Looks like I have the deflector on upside down.

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Quick question - QL vs 1x9 tractors ground speed hydro lever. My 109 hydro lever feels super easy to move, sorta like an old Plymouth's power steering, no feel for the road, it was so easy. The 1650's hydro lever is fairly stiff. Should they be the same or just different designs I've got here with the different hydro lever design styles. Not a big deal - just curious.

Also - been reading up on trunion repair on the hydros. 109 seems to hold it's speed pretty well, 1650 is all over the place when going up/down hills. Probably need to visit it.

My question is - the springs in the hydro trunion assy, are they there to dampen the jerk of the start stop or do they somehow regulate the hydro to maintain a constant speed as one goes up/down a hill? As I read the archives/FAQ's, etc., I gather it is both, but when I look at the pics, I'm thinking the springs simply prevent jerky start/stops. If there is some dynamic ground speed regulation within the tranny as far as keeping a constant ground speed, how does this work? What is the feedback mechanism in/on the hydro that causes this to happen.

Lastly, used the 1650 last night about 10:30 pm to haul some block weights up to my 2 wheel drive pick-up for a little weight in the bed - should we get some snowwwwww. After the quality seat time, I asked my Wife/Boss if the modern Quiet Line tractor was really that quiet or was I disturbing the neighbors with it? She said it was noisy and yes - the neighbors probably think I am an arse for running a tractor at 10:30 pm when everyone else in the neighborhood is settling down for the night!

My question is - has anyone ever tried putting some sound deading foam on the removable side panels and the underside of the hood? This might help silence the tractor, at least from the operator's seat and help direct noise out the front for a quieter QL experience.

Edit: Art - very nice looking tractor! Makes me want to make painting my IHCC's part of the winter project list.
 
Bill,

On the speed lever effort. We (Dad and I) have 149's, a 1450 and a 782 (among others). The 149 handle effort has always been minimal.... to the point, if you let go of the handle it will go full speed forward on its own. On the 1450 and the 782, there is some friction when moving the lever. It is not "stuck" or overly stiff by any means, but you do have to push or pull the lever with a bit of force. Those two will hold the set speed..... sorta, but that is the trunnion wear, not the handle moving.

I believe the trunnion springs are to help ease the jerk of changing speeds. I believe Kentuck put a foot control on a hydro that eliminated the springs and the hydro would react with a snap..... it changed to the new position RIGHT NOW......

On the Quietline noise.... I have found the unless you are right next to the house, the noise that makes it inside is minimal. I have been out pushing snow later in the evening, and I don't even notice the neighbors even looking outside to see what is going on. As for the foam, or dynamat type product, it may help, but a lot of noise will still escape from the grill, and there is still the exhaust noise......

Art - WOW that setup is really nice. I would be afraid to use it... it might get dirty or scratched......
 
Bill Jamison

(My question is - the springs in the hydro trunion assy, are they there to dampen the jerk of the start stop or do they somehow regulate the hydro to maintain a constant speed as one goes up/down a hill? As I read the archives/FAQ's, etc., I gather it is both, but when I look at the pics, I'm thinking the springs simply prevent jerky start/stops. If there is some dynamic ground speed regulation within the tranny as far as keeping a constant ground speed, how does this work? What is the feedback mechanism in/on the hydro that causes this to happen. )

Our tractors are run using hydraulic fluid and have a on or off . the fluid is started to move in one direction to move the tractor ahead with little buffer between stopped and moving . There is nothing inside the pump to limit the fluid but the position of the trunion and hydro handle. The fluid we use is thick and has a compression rate that leaves very little buffer in what it is asked to do to affect movement. so half wot and a small amount of hydro handle ahead the tractor will maintain and up hill motion but will speed up going down hill is normal. the work asked of the pump will be less so it will speed up. I think the springs are there only to remove some of the harsh movements we would get it everything were directly connected. something like water hammer we get in a house water system would happen with out the trunion springs.
 
ART - You make your poor old Dad run a 50+ yr old tractor to remove snow with manual lift, manual steering, manual trans, no protection from the weather and blowing snow while You run that Monster SGT with power steering, hyd lift, and a cab?

Anyhow... that Original & blower look like the tractor from the sales brochure drove right out into your yard! Looks nice.

BILL J. - Geesh... We're going to have to limit you to ONLY ONE QUICK QUESTION per post from now on.

Trunnion springs ease the hydro control lever on the side of the hydro unit forward & backwards otherwise the response of the hydro would throw you off the seat. There is no "control feedback feature" in the Sundstrand 15U hydro. But the lever on the side does "push back" some in response to climbing/desending hills, hard pulls, etc.

If you check the parts manuals for the 1X9's, IH used two different styles of hydro lever on the dash friction dampening to add resistance to the lever movement and hold it in place. My old 129 was a '72 vintage, had the later version and there was a simple small 1/4" cap screw & nut you tightened or loosened t control lever movement & feel. I ran mine pretty tight, you had to tap on the lever pretty hard to increase or decrease speed, but it stayed exactly where you put it. The friction was from a small plastic bushing clamped inside a bore on a cast support for the speed control lever shaft that applied friction to hold the lever in whatever position you set it.

The other design had a threaded nut on a threaded area of the speed control lever that tightened/loosened a friction washer that rubbed against a support bracket to accomplish the same thing. Adjustment instructions are probably in the service manuals for both designs.
 

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