Steve B.
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Archive through October 20, 2018
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Agree!!
Like, what's so hard about that!!??
Thanks again Steve, for everything this weekend.
Pushed a lot of wind w/the 3500 on the way home!!
Like, what's so hard about that!!??
Thanks again Steve, for everything this weekend.
Pushed a lot of wind w/the 3500 on the way home!!
elamott
Well-known member
129 hydro
Question for anyone.
I have my hydro adjusted so when I push in the brake the tractor does not move, which is the way it should be. Every once in a while it will change that with the peddle pushed in it will move forward. It will stay like this for a little while and then go back to normal where it does not move with peddle pushed in. This does not happen very often but usually at the wrong time. Adjusting bolts are tight. Anyone ever have this happen?
Gremlins or what???
Earl L
Question for anyone.
I have my hydro adjusted so when I push in the brake the tractor does not move, which is the way it should be. Every once in a while it will change that with the peddle pushed in it will move forward. It will stay like this for a little while and then go back to normal where it does not move with peddle pushed in. This does not happen very often but usually at the wrong time. Adjusting bolts are tight. Anyone ever have this happen?
Gremlins or what???
Earl L
joligschlaeger
Well-known member
Harry,
I purchased a used 100 back in 1969. It had the narrow, shallow, flat oil pan and it had a capacity of 1 quart. shortly after buying it I had to OH it and getting parts from the local IH truck dealer who were dealing in CC parts, I was told to find the higher capacity oil sump for better engine cooling. I looked and looked for one and finally put it together until the next year or so when I found one and also put a newer rod with longer dipstick.
I found a site on the wide world that gives these capacities and post it but not sure I am allowed to.
K241 narrow, shallow base....1 quart
K241 and up single narrow, deep....1-1/2 to 1-3/4 quarts
wide, rectangular oil base....2 quarts
I purchased a used 100 back in 1969. It had the narrow, shallow, flat oil pan and it had a capacity of 1 quart. shortly after buying it I had to OH it and getting parts from the local IH truck dealer who were dealing in CC parts, I was told to find the higher capacity oil sump for better engine cooling. I looked and looked for one and finally put it together until the next year or so when I found one and also put a newer rod with longer dipstick.
I found a site on the wide world that gives these capacities and post it but not sure I am allowed to.
K241 narrow, shallow base....1 quart
K241 and up single narrow, deep....1-1/2 to 1-3/4 quarts
wide, rectangular oil base....2 quarts
I made it a plowing weekend.
Friday evening and Saturday at Blunier's Plow Day.
Sunday at my sister and brother-in-law's garden pictured below.
Big "THANK YOU" to the Bluniers for putting on the Plow Day event.
I had a blast!
Friday evening and Saturday at Blunier's Plow Day.
Sunday at my sister and brother-in-law's garden pictured below.
Big "THANK YOU" to the Bluniers for putting on the Plow Day event.
I had a blast!
Earl-
My suggestion would be learn to operate the 129 without ever putting your foot on the brake pedal. When the shifter is put in neutral the tractor will stop provided the linkages, cam plates, trunion slot, etc. are in decent shape. You will learn by sound when neutral is located. I have mowed with a 149 now going on 3 full seasons and my brake pedal is never touched. My left hand stays on the shifter most of the time while mowing and that's how the tractor is controlled. I've tried to convince some local people of this but most have a habit of using that pedal constantly. I guess that comes from using gear drives (?).
I guess it would be advisable to have the brakes well adjusted just in case but that hydraulic fluid/neutral will stop the tractor as well as any brake. The brakes are nice to have in the event you have to get off/park it on a hill. Hydros will roll.
I've also found that the exact adjustments are very difficult to achieve. And once it is adjusted it doesn't take much for them to show their own personality. This in mainly why my left hand rarely leaves the shifter. I do the same with QLs so the only difference is shifting with my right hand vs my left.
I guess we all have our own way of operating these cubs so safety should be the one thing we all have in common.
.
My suggestion would be learn to operate the 129 without ever putting your foot on the brake pedal. When the shifter is put in neutral the tractor will stop provided the linkages, cam plates, trunion slot, etc. are in decent shape. You will learn by sound when neutral is located. I have mowed with a 149 now going on 3 full seasons and my brake pedal is never touched. My left hand stays on the shifter most of the time while mowing and that's how the tractor is controlled. I've tried to convince some local people of this but most have a habit of using that pedal constantly. I guess that comes from using gear drives (?).
I guess it would be advisable to have the brakes well adjusted just in case but that hydraulic fluid/neutral will stop the tractor as well as any brake. The brakes are nice to have in the event you have to get off/park it on a hill. Hydros will roll.
I've also found that the exact adjustments are very difficult to achieve. And once it is adjusted it doesn't take much for them to show their own personality. This in mainly why my left hand rarely leaves the shifter. I do the same with QLs so the only difference is shifting with my right hand vs my left.
I guess we all have our own way of operating these cubs so safety should be the one thing we all have in common.
.
elamott
Well-known member
Wayne:
Thanks for the comment
The only time that I use the peddle is to start it, which you have to do because of the safety switch.
I am talking about when I start it.
Earl L
Thanks for the comment
The only time that I use the peddle is to start it, which you have to do because of the safety switch.
I am talking about when I start it.
Earl L
hydroharry
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Ok Steve - I think you should actually stop filling when it's touching the LINE just below the F mark.
Joe - thanks for the input on the 10hp oil capacity. I think what you found is as a result of the different bases on some of the blocks and also different oil pans.
Earl - if your 129 moves sometimes when you have the brake pedal fully depressed you probably have 2 issues. 1st, your brakes are slightly out of adjustment, and 2nd your brake is not centering the hydrostatic control to the full neutral point. I do agree with Wayne and that's the way I control my tractor, but you can probably adjust your brakes a little tighter so the pedal makes a firm stop just above the fully depressed position. You probably do have a worn linkage issue with the hydrostatic controls but your brakes should still stop the tractor. If you still get hydro creep (sometimes) when you take your foot off the brake pedal then you need to adjust your neutral centering. All the details are in the Service Manual and you can review Charlie's FAQ No. 45 linked here:
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html
Be careful when you get to the point of "Celebrate by spinning donuts in gravel. (optional)"
Joe - thanks for the input on the 10hp oil capacity. I think what you found is as a result of the different bases on some of the blocks and also different oil pans.
Earl - if your 129 moves sometimes when you have the brake pedal fully depressed you probably have 2 issues. 1st, your brakes are slightly out of adjustment, and 2nd your brake is not centering the hydrostatic control to the full neutral point. I do agree with Wayne and that's the way I control my tractor, but you can probably adjust your brakes a little tighter so the pedal makes a firm stop just above the fully depressed position. You probably do have a worn linkage issue with the hydrostatic controls but your brakes should still stop the tractor. If you still get hydro creep (sometimes) when you take your foot off the brake pedal then you need to adjust your neutral centering. All the details are in the Service Manual and you can review Charlie's FAQ No. 45 linked here:
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html
Be careful when you get to the point of "Celebrate by spinning donuts in gravel. (optional)"
elamott
Well-known member
Creeping hydro on 129
Thanks for the comments, but you are not hearing what I am asking. The control is centered when the peddle is pushed in. The 129 normally does not creep with the control centered, but every once in a while it starts to move and then later on it returns to not creeping with the control centered with no adjustments made. My question is how can this happen? It should creep or not creep.
Earl L
Thanks for the comments, but you are not hearing what I am asking. The control is centered when the peddle is pushed in. The 129 normally does not creep with the control centered, but every once in a while it starts to move and then later on it returns to not creeping with the control centered with no adjustments made. My question is how can this happen? It should creep or not creep.
Earl L
Mick,
Any chance of a late PD in your area??
West Brach maybe???
Any chance of a late PD in your area??
West Brach maybe???
hydroharry
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Mick - I'm trying not to get into an argument with you (and maybe Steve). If the oil touches the F on the dipstick it's over-filled. You stop filling when you get to the horizontal line under the F.
Earl - yes I heard what you are saying. Basically every once in while (or maybe even less often) your tractor starts to creep even when the hydro control shows centered in Neutral. I believe it's the result of worn linkages. You can go over the steps to adjust it and it might stop it, or it might not.
Earl - yes I heard what you are saying. Basically every once in while (or maybe even less often) your tractor starts to creep even when the hydro control shows centered in Neutral. I believe it's the result of worn linkages. You can go over the steps to adjust it and it might stop it, or it might not.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeez Harry, you can split hairs like no one else around.
I'm certain that Steve meant filled to the line at the top of the hatched area. You are taking his comment far too literally.
I'm certain that Steve meant filled to the line at the top of the hatched area. You are taking his comment far too literally.
hydroharry
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Matt and Mick - yup I was just splittin' hairs, er joking really. I knew what he meant which is why I was banging my head on the wall.
Now maybe we can have a few of these.
hydroharry
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For all those interested, here's a tag on the side of a K241 10hp engine on a Model 100. Ya, I know it's hard to read. It states:
BEFORE STARTING: FILL CRANK-
CASE WITH 3 PINTS OIL
Maybe someone has a better tag they could post but certainly looks like K241 is supposed to get 3 pints. Guess I must'a been wrong thinking it was little less.
BEFORE STARTING: FILL CRANK-
CASE WITH 3 PINTS OIL
Maybe someone has a better tag they could post but certainly looks like K241 is supposed to get 3 pints. Guess I must'a been wrong thinking it was little less.
elamott
Well-known member
Harry:
Thank you for the comment regarding the creeping 129. Th worn linkage sounds logical. I will check it.
Thanks again
Earl L
Thank you for the comment regarding the creeping 129. Th worn linkage sounds logical. I will check it.
Thanks again
Earl L
So I got a 54 inch blade that I kept after I sold all my cubs, I been wanting to buy a non hydro cub cadet, would a narrow frame be able to push dirt or would I have to downgrade to a 42 blade? shorting the blade isnt a thing i want to do.
