Hydroharry.
I think you are correct in starting with exchanging out the coil..I have found a proper coil at my local NAPA store in the form of a 76 Chevy coil. It has the internal 1.5 ohm resister and produces 20.000-volts. The good news is that it's about 1/4th the price of the current China made coil, that Kohler is sticking in a box, which in turn sells for 85 bucks before tax at my local Case/IH/Cub Cadet dealer. I plan on trying the new condenser with the new coil and seeing if it fires and runs. Brian Miller of A-1 Miller's Performance recommends setting the point gap at .035 with the 20K volt coil and says you can use the larger automotive type of condenser if you want to take full advantage of the new coil and inflict no damage to the points..
I had thought of the Allen head screws as an alternative to the stock screws used to hold the points plate and the cover, as well as the points adjustment screw. Those sizes would be 8-32 X 1/4" for the points adjustment screw. And 10-24 x 3/8" for the points mounting plate and the points cover. I hope to find those locally as well.
I was wondering about the timing on the K301a I saw the round cover on the right side of the cooling shroud when I was cleaning the grounds. I understand that there are 2 timing marks? The first for BTDC and the second for TDC. Do you know how many degrees the first mark is BTDC? At TDC the points should be at their widest open position, correct?
I used to be into air-cooled VWs back in the day (I'm 60 now) and I used to use a simple test light to set the points/dwell. Basically, you'd roll the engine over to the first mark on the crank pulley, loosen the hold down distributor clamp, pop the cap off, clamp the test light lead to the + side of the coil, turn the key on and ground the test light tip. If the timing was right, the test lamp would glow as soon as the points began to open. If no glow you'd turn the distributor base to get the points rub block squarely up on the apex of one of the 4 lobes of the distributor cam, loosen the points adjustment screw and gap the points to their normal gap setting, retighten the points hold down screw and turn the distributor base back beyond the apex of the cam on a flat and then rotate the base in the other direction to where the test lamp just lights up. At that point you retighten the dist base clamp and roll the crank to the right to TDC and then check the points gap again.. Basically the distributor's I ran on the Bugs were the Bosch 009 HP which are centrifugal/mechanical advance as opposed to the stock vacuum advance.
All the above leads to my questions..How does the timing advance in the K301? And where is the advance mechanism located? All I have been able to make out in a photo is of a points actuator rod rubbing up against the eccentric on the crankshaft. I guess I'm just old and dense.
Thanks for all the sage wisdom..I need it...LOL..
Regards
John