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Archive through October 11, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Todd:
I use a fine bristle rotary wire brush in a die grinder (with a full face shield and moderate air pressure and speed). It dusts right off. Now this isn't meant to insult, but I hope you've got the polarity right, as in my tank, most of the blsck stuff ends up on the anodes, not the work piece..
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Don T. -

I'm not surprised. I took a $60 USPS money order to the MAIN post office in downtown Chicago. They told me I'd have to come back later, they didn't have enough money to cash it. What???!!!
 
I made a boo-boo and am not sure what all I may have damaged. I have a 1450 and we did some major repairs due to PO not watching the ISO Mounts. We put it back together and I used it mow. It ran for 10 - 15 minutes and died. I swapped out the condenser and coil. It ran for maybe 10 minutes started to backfire and die. I double-checked my work and found that I had connected the coil backwards. What all did I damage? Did I fry the coil, condenser or both. Everything else looks okay. Is there anything else I should check? This is the first AQS engine that I have been around.
 
hi all i need some advice. what reducer/thinner should i use? i am spraying iron gard 935 white. tia chris
 
Hey all,
Have not posted in a long time, but lurk almost daily. Just wanted to show off my finally completed home built loader. Took almost a year to complete. Well worth the time though. It's a blast to use.
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To make a short story long, I've installed auto relief valves in this 149. I thought I'd "Zip Strip" the decal off the tunnel cover. The writing came off the decal and I found the fingerprint of the guy that put the decal on. My story - sticking to it.
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Terry: Good show!
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Hi
I have a 149 that I recently purchased. It was starting fine. I readjusted the (correctly I think), as the PO told me that he had been messing with it. I do not think it is related, but wanted to mention it. I think that my problem is the ACR, it seems to stop cranking on the compression stroke, if you turn it by hand it will crank again, but not through the compression. Is it possible that the arm is stuck on the cam, I have the older adjustable type engine. I do not think my problem is the starter/gen. Are there any simple tests or do I need to start by going through the manual for ACR adjustment, just seemed odd that it had been starting fine.
Thanks
Jeff
 
That homemade loader is great, any chance you would add more detail, or closer pic, what model CC is that on...
 
Jeff: Since I'm right here, I think I'd do 2 things. First: check the valve clearance (the exhaust valve controls the ACR). I think .009 on the exhaust and .018 on the intake(while you're in there,anyway). It also might be time to pull the head and check for carbon interference. Good luck!
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Good day to all.
I have been lurking in the background for a few years, may have posted once I don't remember. Thought I may as well jump in. I have a 1976 1450 owned it for a few years.. I bought a mowing deck for it last year in very good shape. After I put it on I was looking at the site thinking some of these people are a tad over the top with their tractors. I then bought a snow blower, looked at the site again thought some people are a tad over the top. I then bought a blade for the tractor, visited the site thinking some of these people are over the top. I brought home a chipper the other day thinking I should have another tractor to leave the chipper on.

I am now wondering once you go over the top is it down hill after that?
 
Am having trouble with the PTO clutchon a 149. With the turnbuckle turned all the way in{short}I cannot shut off the mower deck. The three fingers on the brake are not seated in the notches of the cast hub eather. Can someone explain what is messed up? To get any more ajustment I would have to shorten the thread sections. That isn't right but I cannot see what is messed up.
 
Mike M-
Welcome (again!) to the forum...

Your story rings farmiliar with me because I also started out with a 1976 1450 as my first Cub 11 years ago.

We had just bought (our first) house and needed something to mow the fast growing 2 acre yard. A good friend found the 1450 for me, and even though I wanted a "leaping antler branded" tractor, this would have to get me through my first summer and winter at then new house as money was tight.

It came with everything... deck, snowthrower, cart, chipper/shredder, soft cab, wheel weights, and all the paperwork to boot.

Well, the ol' girl got me through more than just one season, and it only took a few months to realize just how good these tractors can be.

After finding this forum due to a problem I was having with the hydraulic lift mechanism on the 1450, I read about a Cub Cadet called an "Original". It sounded neat, belt-drive and all.

Long story short, I bought one from a local collector found on this forum, and didn't even want the starter/generator on it because I thought that would save me a few bucks and I would just park it out back behind the garage to use it for odd jobs.

Fast forward almost 10 years...

The 1450 is (regretably) gone, and the Original is restored/redone (see picture in my profile). I now own 8 Cub Cadets, each one with their own implement, but have probably owned 25-30 in the last 10 years.

I am "over the top" as you say, but it's been a fun ride and I've made many great friends along the way.

Owning more than one tractor is more work, and people (friends, neighbors, etc) start looking at you funny when they find out that you have "EIGHT LAWNMOWERS" in your garage?!?!?!?
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...but it's all worth it in my book.

Not to mention, I don't have to attach my chipper/shredder before using it. It has it's own tractor.
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Richard, AFAIK only two of Art's 8 tractors are <font color="119911">green</font>, a 140 that's in process of being VERY nicely restored and a 755 w/loader.
 
Larry S,

There are two spindle configurations for a 50C deck and you need to determine which one you have. The ST-745 bearing that Roland posted is the original bearing that IH used on the 44 and 50" decks and CCC continued using for a while. This bearing is held in place with a stamped steel cup/cap assembly and 3 bolts. At somepoint, to reduce cost (the ST-745 is a bit pricey), CCC changed to a cast hub with two ball bearings on a shaft configuration. If you use the parts lookup link at the top of the page and search on the 50C deck you should be able to see an illustrated parts list picture of the two configurations.

Generally what happens with the early configuration is the bearings work loose in the cup/cap assembly which make it appear that the bearing is loose and going bad. However, the bearing is usually fine and if you take the cap and cup of an anvil and flatten out the attach flanges with a BFH you can put it back together and the cup assembly will tightly hold the bearing again. Once you get everything apart carefully inspect the cup/cap assembly for signs of wear, if they are worn, you may want to replace them. Also check the bearing for smooth operation.

If you have the later style hub with excessive play, then your bearings are probably going bad so you will need to disassemble it and replace whatever parts need replacing.

Hope this helps.
 
Jerry B,

Is the fiber button on your actuation arm still there? The three fingers on the clutch should be engaged in a slot on the center button on your clutch. Check the FAQ's above but it sounds like you need do a clutch rebuild.
 
I had a nice visit to the Bliler Cub shack yesterday. Brought home a CW-36 snow thrower. I'll clean it up and give it some grease and mount it to my 100 for now, but I think I might try and adapt it to a wide frame QA mount for my 1450. The hydro might be easier to operate than my non-creeper 100.

Thanks Jerry!
Keith
 
Art-"First Cub 11 years ago". Wow, how time flies. It is neat to see new faces here, but it is always great to come back from time to time to see the pillars of the forum still going strong.

I wish I had the time, I loved reading new posts every five minutes in the "good 'ol days".

Jon
 

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