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Archive through November 27, 2012
- Thread starter jstorma
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Charlie - what was that battery brand and specs you posted about a few months back? I think you said it was in a QL and still going strong after 5 years including starting at 20 below or something.
I`am taking a few measurements in the am to get a car battery . They told me it is 6" high and 9" in length with side posts . Just have to check the width . I plan on putting it my 1512 and if it works out the 149 will be next and 129 loader. They quoted $80.00 . But if it will last then I`am in $$$$ . seems I buy three batteries every year and none of them last more than two years.It is a pain when I want to use a Cub and have 8 tractors to use and the batteries won`t stay charged.
These are 550 cold cranking amps and are 9 x 7-1/4 x 7-5/8 with a side post. They want $110.00 , but I think I can find a better price.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com I-75
http://www.interstatebatteries.com I-75
Harry B.
I use the Interstate Workaholic in the 782D though.
I use the Interstate Workaholic in the 782D though.
Thank you very much, KEEPER OF THE PHOTOS. THIS LOOKS LIKE MY BLADE IN THE PHOTO, EXCEPT FOR THE ROUND BAR THAT GOES FROM THE LIFT HANDLE TO THE BLADE. I WILL TRY THIS SET UP ON MY TRACTOR THANX AGAIN FOR THE PICTURE AND THE REPLY. ANOTHER QUESTION COULD I USE MOBIL 1, 5W20 SYNTHETIC OIL. I WANT TO CHANGE THE OIL I DON'T KNOW HOW LONG ITS BEEN IN THERE. IT STARTED GOOD IN SUMMER WHEN I BOUGHT IT, NOW ITS A NO GO WITH THE BATERY,IT STARTS WITH A JUMP OK BUT, I DON'T LET IT RUN LONG ENOUGH TO CHARGE THE BATTERY. I WILL BUY A NEW ONE. I HAVE BEEN READING THE LAST FEW POST,AN THEY HAVE BEEN VERY HELPFULL WITH THINGS ON MY TRACTOR. IT IS A CC 122 IT WILL STAY INSIDE I LIVE IN MICHIGAN
Richard M.
Please take the CAPS LOCK off, it's to dang hard to read.
Please take the CAPS LOCK off, it's to dang hard to read.
mhomrighausen
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- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
About the oil filter with the so-called nut on the bottom. I've seen those on various older Cub Cadets where the oil and filter were never changed. As for factory or OEM definitely yes to that. Back then it wasn't for cranking down on the filter so much as to help remove the filter with a wrench. Remember ... Oil filters have always been hand tightened only. Do not "bear" down on the filter. If I recall Baldwin made a lot of those filters. I don't remember much about the WIX filters for some reason other than i believe that they can still maintain that the company hasn't lost an OEM manufacturer since it began in 1939.
Again ... About a hydro starting harder in the winter over a gear drive. Just remove the safety switch from your gear drive and then don't push in on the clutch and try and start your gear drive tractor. You will have the same effect of the cold oil drag on the engine. With Batteries... Interstate is what I use. Second choice is to go to Tractor Supply and buy a top of the line Briggs battery for a garden tractor. Not nearly a fantastic as the Interstate however for those that can't afford and Interstate it will still do the job.
Again ... About a hydro starting harder in the winter over a gear drive. Just remove the safety switch from your gear drive and then don't push in on the clutch and try and start your gear drive tractor. You will have the same effect of the cold oil drag on the engine. With Batteries... Interstate is what I use. Second choice is to go to Tractor Supply and buy a top of the line Briggs battery for a garden tractor. Not nearly a fantastic as the Interstate however for those that can't afford and Interstate it will still do the job.
DON & ALL - I think it's a Group # 26 battery I use in my #72, drops right in, but you have to use the replacement battery clamps to connect from the common post style to the wire with the ring terminal end. The battery box is not modified and the hood closes fine, It's a drop-in and go. I typically get 6-8 yrs from them. Last one I bought was only 450-475 CCA and the one it replaced was 550. Here's a size chart;http://www.rtpnet.org/teaa/bcigroup.html
I've always had decent luck with the side terminal batteries, they seem to resist corrosion better than a post style battery, but with the replacement post clamps I have two little cap screws to connect the tractor's connections to the battery plus a spare set to connect the leads to my 12V sprayer or my lawn vac's ignition lead. Plus the connections are easy to disconnect so the whole tractor is electrically "dead" when parked, which I think is part of the reason I get such long battery life. Only takes a minute to connect the ground cable and start the engine.
The #70 has a molested battery box and has an even larger battery... something else I have to fix!
The 982 with the battery under the seat still runs the stock little L&G battery, 350 CCA, but even when it sits for several weeks, or a month.... or 3 or 4 months and I have to crank it a lot to get gas to the carb it still starts but does loose cranking speed over the time I have to crank it.
I've always had decent luck with the side terminal batteries, they seem to resist corrosion better than a post style battery, but with the replacement post clamps I have two little cap screws to connect the tractor's connections to the battery plus a spare set to connect the leads to my 12V sprayer or my lawn vac's ignition lead. Plus the connections are easy to disconnect so the whole tractor is electrically "dead" when parked, which I think is part of the reason I get such long battery life. Only takes a minute to connect the ground cable and start the engine.
The #70 has a molested battery box and has an even larger battery... something else I have to fix!
Hello. I'm hoping someone here can help me out. I'm rebuilding a Model 105 and have been working on it since last June. I got the engine up and running, but I'm having an issue with it in regards to the Hydrostatic transmission
For some reason, I can't get it to move out of neutral into forward or reverse. I'm not sure how long it was in storage before I rescued it. I did go thru and spray all I could with WD40 to try to free it up. I did look, and the bypass valves and both indicators are up. I did change the Hydraulic fluid. Just to clarify, its the gear selector lever i can't get to move. Does anyone have any suggestions? I would appreciate any help! Thanks.
For some reason, I can't get it to move out of neutral into forward or reverse. I'm not sure how long it was in storage before I rescued it. I did go thru and spray all I could with WD40 to try to free it up. I did look, and the bypass valves and both indicators are up. I did change the Hydraulic fluid. Just to clarify, its the gear selector lever i can't get to move. Does anyone have any suggestions? I would appreciate any help! Thanks.
kostendorf
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 617
- displayname
- Keith Ostendorf
Mark, make sure the brake pedal is up and the linkage for same is working. It may need adjusting.
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Mark,
Check to see if the hydro is turning, as you may have a sheared roll pin or torn rag-joint... check hydro fluid, also.
under edit,
Does the handle move? or when you move the handle, nothing happens?
Check to see if the hydro is turning, as you may have a sheared roll pin or torn rag-joint... check hydro fluid, also.
under edit,
Does the handle move? or when you move the handle, nothing happens?
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Richard, Daniel, others,
I would use 5W-50 synthetic, instead of the 5W20. I've used it in my 149 for 15 years, and it really helps cold starting. As said before, the other sticky wicket is the hydro fluid, which a mag heater will help.
I also use a good, name brand battery to help crank, and keep a battery tender on it.. I have since modified the 149's battery compartment to hold a group 70 auto battery... it should be enough to crank the kohler over now...
I would use 5W-50 synthetic, instead of the 5W20. I've used it in my 149 for 15 years, and it really helps cold starting. As said before, the other sticky wicket is the hydro fluid, which a mag heater will help.
I also use a good, name brand battery to help crank, and keep a battery tender on it.. I have since modified the 149's battery compartment to hold a group 70 auto battery... it should be enough to crank the kohler over now...
Scott......us there a way to check the hydro fluid? When I look at the diagram for the system, I don't see a way to do that. I got copies of both the owners and service manuals, and neither show or talk about away to do this. They only talk about the rear end fluid. Unless I missed it somewhere.
Mark, I think the hydro fluid and the rear end fluid are one and the same.
Just make sure it's up to the bottom of the fill plug to the point of running out and you are good to go.
Just make sure it's up to the bottom of the fill plug to the point of running out and you are good to go.
Mark Riney
did you fill the hyro filter before you installed it? The plug in the back of the rear end is where you should fill and check the fluid level.After the first ruining it is a good idea to check that fluid level again.
did you fill the hyro filter before you installed it? The plug in the back of the rear end is where you should fill and check the fluid level.After the first ruining it is a good idea to check that fluid level again.
