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Archive through November 27, 2006
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Stan, what are those lights? Holy cow those are huge!
JIM - All My ring terminals are the split barrel style, and I throw the insulation sleeve on them away before I solder them and just use heat shrink. The solder I use does have a percent or so of silver so the melting point is higher.... 700-750 deg. F. I think I have one of those cheap stripping & crimping pliers in My tool box....And other than to move it to get a better tool I haven't touched it in probably five years....or used it in 10+, maybe 20.
I keep a roll of red vinyl electrical tape around just to temporarily hold "Stuff' and color code things. I wasn't real impressed with "Liquid Lectrical Tape" in a can either. Or whatever they called it. Our R/C cars were a pretty severe environment.... dust, dirt, heat, fuel based on alcohol with castor oil & 30% nitromethane. I tried wiring a receiver pack with some fancy Thomas & Betts sealed connector made from silicon rubber with o-rings & machined alum. threads and it failed the first day. Compared to R/C cars a Cubbie's wiring has it easy.
I keep a roll of red vinyl electrical tape around just to temporarily hold "Stuff' and color code things. I wasn't real impressed with "Liquid Lectrical Tape" in a can either. Or whatever they called it. Our R/C cars were a pretty severe environment.... dust, dirt, heat, fuel based on alcohol with castor oil & 30% nitromethane. I tried wiring a receiver pack with some fancy Thomas & Betts sealed connector made from silicon rubber with o-rings & machined alum. threads and it failed the first day. Compared to R/C cars a Cubbie's wiring has it easy.
Could someone direct me to a drawing of the engine wiring for a 1250? I am rebuilding my K301 and cannot find a diagram in either the IH service manual or the Kohler service manual that shows the engine wiring. My memory is not helping me either, part of aging I guess.
Back from the garage, the 129 is coming along. New rings are in the motor, and it got a quickie paint job with a spray bomb when I put it back together, but the paint wrinkled in spots where I had painted part of the motor recently with oil-based enamel from a spray gun. I will let it dry overnight before putting it back in, but the mottled paint will have to do for now. I also did a bit of additional body work on the back fenders and plan to shoot it as well, but I will use the brush enamel in a spray gun like I did on the rest of the tractor, and wish I had done on the motor.
I also acquired a snow blade today for the 129, the guy who sold it to me said it came off his old 1450. I figured it should fit, even though it didn't look like a regular WF plow, but laying it alongside my NF plow for my 102, it looks more like the latter. Just keeping my fingers crossed on this one. Anyway, the first shot is the two plows, the old NF is on the right, the new one is on the left
This is a shot of my fender bodywork in progress:
Yes, the garage is a mess!
I also acquired a snow blade today for the 129, the guy who sold it to me said it came off his old 1450. I figured it should fit, even though it didn't look like a regular WF plow, but laying it alongside my NF plow for my 102, it looks more like the latter. Just keeping my fingers crossed on this one. Anyway, the first shot is the two plows, the old NF is on the right, the new one is on the left
This is a shot of my fender bodywork in progress:
Yes, the garage is a mess!
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
I can't encourage folks more strongly to use the online parts lookup at Cub Cadet's website. Search for a 1450, look at the dozer blade parts for other tractor models, see what's different/same between the mounting parts, etc.
See, now I'm not begging folks to buy a CPE-2 manual anymore - you can find the info FOR FREE online!
<font size="-2">although the print version is handy while in the, um, library...</font>
See, now I'm not begging folks to buy a CPE-2 manual anymore - you can find the info FOR FREE online!
<font size="-2">although the print version is handy while in the, um, library...</font>
And here's the link.
CLICK HERE
CLICK HERE
Thanks for the link, I guess I live and learn, and maybe post one of them in the classifieds. I did go ahead and bring out the yellow paint and got the bodywork covered, and a fly decides to land on the wet paint, but I extracted him without messing things up too badly.
I guess I'm totally hosed on my plugs & wires - I've got resistor plugs and carbon wires. Oh well - learn something new everyday. Fact is, I'm grateful for the knowledge - my 782 has been hard starting for years. I chalked it up to temperamental engine syndrome and my ineptitude at dialing in the carb. Now I strongly suspect my wires and plugs. The KT17 uses an oddball plug - RB15yC4 or something like that. I had trouble enough finding them - got one at TSC and another at Autozone, which is where I spotted the nifty coil wires I could adapt to my tractor.
On the up side, years ago I bought one of those $50 spark plug crimping pliers for my hotrod because I was making my own wire sets (had to have them tucked in neat don't you know). I think I'll buy a few feet of copper core and have a go at it.
On the up side, years ago I bought one of those $50 spark plug crimping pliers for my hotrod because I was making my own wire sets (had to have them tucked in neat don't you know). I think I'll buy a few feet of copper core and have a go at it.
Ryan: No, I dont have transistorized ignition - has the old points & condensor.
Also, back when I was fiddling with British motorcycles I soldered everything. But I think the problem was corrosion more than vibration. Anyway, I followed the theory that if it took longer and was a PIA it must be better. But I did notice that most wires that broke let go right where the crimp was applied - like the crimping fatigued the metal of the wire or something. I just took to soldering because it seemed less of a PIA than being stranded at the side of the road...to die...in the dark...in the rain (that's my Hemmingway imitation).
Jim E: The intel on the resistor wires and plugs was eye opening. Since I've got all the parts, I believe I'll conduct a little science experiment. I'll post results.
Also, back when I was fiddling with British motorcycles I soldered everything. But I think the problem was corrosion more than vibration. Anyway, I followed the theory that if it took longer and was a PIA it must be better. But I did notice that most wires that broke let go right where the crimp was applied - like the crimping fatigued the metal of the wire or something. I just took to soldering because it seemed less of a PIA than being stranded at the side of the road...to die...in the dark...in the rain (that's my Hemmingway imitation).
Jim E: The intel on the resistor wires and plugs was eye opening. Since I've got all the parts, I believe I'll conduct a little science experiment. I'll post results.
Craig if you are using a RB15YC4 plug that is part of your problem. Those plugs are designed for HEI ignitions and are gapped at .040. You should try to find plain RB15YC plugs and in my KT17 I use RB17YCs gapped .030 and have had no starting or fouling problems. Roger
Bruce N.
It's YELLOW and shiny, that's all that matters.
It's YELLOW and shiny, that's all that matters.
Craig,
Just riding a British motorcycle is asking for trouble (my brother rode a Triumph), but as far as your problem with wires breaking at the crimps, here are a couple of things I have learned.
1. In high-vibration areas, use a very fine stranded wire, sort of like the stuff that test leads are made of. I had this problem with the leads on the wiring for the solenoid on a single rotation clutch on a mail processing machine I service at work. I tried soldering, crimping, covering the connection with heat shrink tubing, etc, but nothing worked as well as using test lead wire for the last few inches from the solenoid to the wiring harness.
2. If it is an inline splice, try to secure the splice so it is either firmly strapped to a vibrating part (the engine) or a less vibrating part (the frame).
3. For wire terminals, such as on the generator, coil, etc. be very careful not to nick the conductors, and use a terminal sized correctly to the wire being terminated. Using a proper wire crimping tool is very helpful as well, and covering the terminal and last inch or so of wire with heat shrink tubing will also reinforce the wire at its vulnerable end.
Hope this helps!
Just riding a British motorcycle is asking for trouble (my brother rode a Triumph), but as far as your problem with wires breaking at the crimps, here are a couple of things I have learned.
1. In high-vibration areas, use a very fine stranded wire, sort of like the stuff that test leads are made of. I had this problem with the leads on the wiring for the solenoid on a single rotation clutch on a mail processing machine I service at work. I tried soldering, crimping, covering the connection with heat shrink tubing, etc, but nothing worked as well as using test lead wire for the last few inches from the solenoid to the wiring harness.
2. If it is an inline splice, try to secure the splice so it is either firmly strapped to a vibrating part (the engine) or a less vibrating part (the frame).
3. For wire terminals, such as on the generator, coil, etc. be very careful not to nick the conductors, and use a terminal sized correctly to the wire being terminated. Using a proper wire crimping tool is very helpful as well, and covering the terminal and last inch or so of wire with heat shrink tubing will also reinforce the wire at its vulnerable end.
Hope this helps!
Craig E.,
Your 782 (produced '80-'84) was factory-equipped with the KT17S Kohler Opposed Twin 17HP engine. The Champion sparkplug site (mentioned earlier) and Charlie's FAQ #26 both say that the CC 782 should take a Champion Part# RV17YC (Stock #25) sparkplug and be gapped at 0.025". Yep, that is a resistor plug.
If I were you, I'd call down to the local TSC and ask them to order you a box of 4 RV17YC Champion sparkplugs; then call back in a week to confirm they've arrived. Then go pick up your 2 plugs and a spare pair!
After you switchout the wire for a metallic wire, please come back here and tell us if you notice any performance difference...
Don't fret, I'm learning a bunch here too!
Ryan W
Your 782 (produced '80-'84) was factory-equipped with the KT17S Kohler Opposed Twin 17HP engine. The Champion sparkplug site (mentioned earlier) and Charlie's FAQ #26 both say that the CC 782 should take a Champion Part# RV17YC (Stock #25) sparkplug and be gapped at 0.025". Yep, that is a resistor plug.
If I were you, I'd call down to the local TSC and ask them to order you a box of 4 RV17YC Champion sparkplugs; then call back in a week to confirm they've arrived. Then go pick up your 2 plugs and a spare pair!
After you switchout the wire for a metallic wire, please come back here and tell us if you notice any performance difference...
Don't fret, I'm learning a bunch here too!
Ryan W
Just added a 149 to my collection.Engine seems to be o.k.,but the hydro seems to be a little....touchy?The po says he "accidentlly" popped a wheelie after he got it.It almost has the light switch effect,off or on!Is this normal for this series?My 1650 transitions smoother,so I'm thinking the 149 may need some tuning.Thanks,Bob.
Ryan: Yep - that's what the book said at TSC except they spec'ed a cooler heat range...the 15y instead of 17y and called for .030 gap. I went with the 15 because I was trying to be correct...now I see the website calls for 17y.
Sometimes you learn something new...a day or two late...They had a dozen 17y's on the shelf.
BTW, does anyone know the effect of incorrect plug gap??
Sometimes you learn something new...a day or two late...They had a dozen 17y's on the shelf.
BTW, does anyone know the effect of incorrect plug gap??
