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Archive through November 04, 2011
- Thread starter tbenak
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Home of the Plow Special
Rick-
That's way-cool. Nice to know there's another one out there!
Thomas-
Original fenders will have a solid fender pan that goes from one fender all the way to the other fender as well as a brace-rod to connect the two.
70/100 fenders have short plates that connect the fenders to the frame. If you just have the fenders with no bracketry, the Original fenders will have their mounting holes and another one higher up for the rod that connects them, narrow-frame fenders will not have that extra hole.
That's way-cool. Nice to know there's another one out there!
Thomas-
Original fenders will have a solid fender pan that goes from one fender all the way to the other fender as well as a brace-rod to connect the two.
70/100 fenders have short plates that connect the fenders to the frame. If you just have the fenders with no bracketry, the Original fenders will have their mounting holes and another one higher up for the rod that connects them, narrow-frame fenders will not have that extra hole.
Rick, awesome find!
Thomas B
The 70/100 fenders have a 90 degree "lip" or flange on the bottom of the inner skirt, that sits on top of the axle housing. The bottom fender mount straps that fit around the bottom of the axle housing bolts to this flange. The inner skirt on the Original fenders does not have a flange and is not as deep as the 70/100 fenders.
The 70/100 fenders have a 90 degree "lip" or flange on the bottom of the inner skirt, that sits on top of the axle housing. The bottom fender mount straps that fit around the bottom of the axle housing bolts to this flange. The inner skirt on the Original fenders does not have a flange and is not as deep as the 70/100 fenders.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Rick B. FANTASTIC find and great save!!! Was that the old International Harvester dealer building in Monticello or Anamosa? What are the plans for the building? It's been so long since I've been through that area.
Allen, one from a 72,73,104,105,106,107,124,125,126,127,or a 147 are all interchangeable.
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- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
Allen, dont forget C C Specialties (above) has an exact harness in stock.
I have a 14hp kohler that runs rough and has no power.I overhauled it with new piston,rings&rod, refaced valves set @.o09intake-.018 ex.New points [email protected],condenser,plug,new ignition switch,new external wire to coil,and tried three different carbs.I removed the engine as I thought it may be out of time,but it's not.
I have overhauled 50 of these engines and never ran into anthing like this.I have a really nice 1450 waiting on this engine.I have also tried three different coils.Did I miss something?
I have overhauled 50 of these engines and never ran into anthing like this.I have a really nice 1450 waiting on this engine.I have also tried three different coils.Did I miss something?
Daniel,
I would try adjusting the point gap with engine running. 020" is just a starting point. I have had some engines with gaps out of the manuals range that ran fine. Just loosen the adjusting screw a bit and play with the gap to see if it helps. If not that, I would check for a sticky valve.
I would try adjusting the point gap with engine running. 020" is just a starting point. I have had some engines with gaps out of the manuals range that ran fine. Just loosen the adjusting screw a bit and play with the gap to see if it helps. If not that, I would check for a sticky valve.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Daniel, please keep us posted; I'm curious to learn the ultimate cause of the rough running. It certainly can't be uneven sizing of the combustion chamber as in multi-cylinder engines.
I suppose you will need a dial indicator to measure the valve lift per Dave's suggestion.
I suppose you will need a dial indicator to measure the valve lift per Dave's suggestion.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Daniel-
Bad coil or ignition switch?
Bad coil or ignition switch?
I'm going to re-install it in the next few days and try the point adjustment thing with it running.It almost sounds like the timing is retarded as it is real sluggish when you accelerate.It starts in an instant every time but then shakes,rattles & rolls.When I first disassembled it I had a hard time removing the ex.valve as there was lots of carbon on the stem &guide.I reamed the guide and cleaned the valve before refacing.The valve worked freely when reassembled.If I remember the valves both raise about .25/in.I'll check that too.I'LL KEEP YOU POSTED.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Rick beem (Rbeem) on Thursday, November 03, 2011 - 09:12 am:
Dennis,
A the top shaft is a bit weak, yes. The bearing caps (stamped steel) are weak. The "detent" for staying gear under load is weak. The shift forks are prone to cracking and breaking.
The ammount of available "mesh" between the gears is pretty minimal also.
Yes, I'm picking apart the best garden tractor transmission out there, but there are weak areas when you are pushing it past its design limits. (14 hp+) Time and use WILL find these areas.
Everybody has had a gear drive pop out of gear plowing right? Usually when pushing a little hard in 2nd gear in tough ground.
I've built lots of puller transmissions and clutch set-ups, so I am really aiming at SEVERE use. I only like to build things once.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Rick, I've talked to you about your setup before, glad its still working out. I finally took the plunge after my 1000 has been sitting for a couple months now with a toasted clutch. Got a complete MWSC setup with red spring and kevlar disk. I didnt get a driver though, was hoping the stock setup was good enough and wanted to save a few bucks. Hopefully that wont bite me later.
I'm wanting to do similar to you as well and put in a slightly performance modded 14hp, I have one out of a 1450 right now, no idea what shape the motor is in the tractor has sat out for 10+yrs. Besides stuff around the house including plowing, the hardest service I think will be in the woods. I'm going to soon build a trailer (I think, havent found one I liked yet) for hauling firewood out of the woods. The terrain is rough with steep hills. I plan on building something pretty heavy duty and that places a lot of weight on the hitch for better traction. Tractor already has larger than stock tires (25x10x12), filled, and small weights on em.
Your making me wonder about the GD... with 14hp, bigger tires, and hauling a lot of weight over rough ground, is this going to be too much for the stock tranny / rear end?
</font>
By Rick beem (Rbeem) on Thursday, November 03, 2011 - 09:12 am:
Dennis,
A the top shaft is a bit weak, yes. The bearing caps (stamped steel) are weak. The "detent" for staying gear under load is weak. The shift forks are prone to cracking and breaking.
The ammount of available "mesh" between the gears is pretty minimal also.
Yes, I'm picking apart the best garden tractor transmission out there, but there are weak areas when you are pushing it past its design limits. (14 hp+) Time and use WILL find these areas.
Everybody has had a gear drive pop out of gear plowing right? Usually when pushing a little hard in 2nd gear in tough ground.
I've built lots of puller transmissions and clutch set-ups, so I am really aiming at SEVERE use. I only like to build things once.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Rick, I've talked to you about your setup before, glad its still working out. I finally took the plunge after my 1000 has been sitting for a couple months now with a toasted clutch. Got a complete MWSC setup with red spring and kevlar disk. I didnt get a driver though, was hoping the stock setup was good enough and wanted to save a few bucks. Hopefully that wont bite me later.
I'm wanting to do similar to you as well and put in a slightly performance modded 14hp, I have one out of a 1450 right now, no idea what shape the motor is in the tractor has sat out for 10+yrs. Besides stuff around the house including plowing, the hardest service I think will be in the woods. I'm going to soon build a trailer (I think, havent found one I liked yet) for hauling firewood out of the woods. The terrain is rough with steep hills. I plan on building something pretty heavy duty and that places a lot of weight on the hitch for better traction. Tractor already has larger than stock tires (25x10x12), filled, and small weights on em.
Your making me wonder about the GD... with 14hp, bigger tires, and hauling a lot of weight over rough ground, is this going to be too much for the stock tranny / rear end?
</font>
