mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
I'd put washer fluid in the tires instead...Calcium Chloride will destroy the rims.
I'd put washer fluid in the tires instead...Calcium Chloride will destroy the rims.
Archive through May 18, 2010
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nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
Ok, I'm driving myself crazy here. My 782 has had charging problems since it followed me home. I figured out it had the wrong key switch and the wrong pto switch. After replacing those and rewiring those areas following my wiring diagram, it still drains the battery while operating and the pto kills nearly all the juice. And forget about using the headlights while mowing. That steals all the power fromt the coil and it barely runs.
I have 35volts AC coming from the stator (right on the mark in the manual, and 15-16DC volts coming out of the rect/reg to the battery.
But I also noticed this just last night:
While a little P.O.ed that it was dead again I got a bit over aggresive with the battery charger. That thing was blasting in some energy while I messed with the carb. about 10 mintues later I noticed that the coil was so hot I couldn't touch it!!
I immediately disconnected the charger and prayed to the tractor gods that I didn't fry the stupid expensive dual wire coil. but after 15 minutes it was still untouchable? So I undid the postive battery cable and 10 minutes later it was cool enough to touch.
Here's my question, should the coil be getting voltage even though the key was off. nothing was turned on?
Would a grounding problem explain all this? I'm getting so frustrated. I call this thing my electric lawn mower cause I have to charge it before every use.
Oh, and it did this with the old battery and the brand new Interstate battery.
Thanks guys.
I have 35volts AC coming from the stator (right on the mark in the manual, and 15-16DC volts coming out of the rect/reg to the battery.
But I also noticed this just last night:
While a little P.O.ed that it was dead again I got a bit over aggresive with the battery charger. That thing was blasting in some energy while I messed with the carb. about 10 mintues later I noticed that the coil was so hot I couldn't touch it!!
I immediately disconnected the charger and prayed to the tractor gods that I didn't fry the stupid expensive dual wire coil. but after 15 minutes it was still untouchable? So I undid the postive battery cable and 10 minutes later it was cool enough to touch.
Here's my question, should the coil be getting voltage even though the key was off. nothing was turned on?
Would a grounding problem explain all this? I'm getting so frustrated. I call this thing my electric lawn mower cause I have to charge it before every use.
Oh, and it did this with the old battery and the brand new Interstate battery.
Thanks guys.
Tristan,
Good morning,
I'd go "fixed" with that pulley. When I had the tiller on the 147 the long belt driving the tiller box would occasionally jump off the pulley. I think it was because I had the spring on and it wasn't in a fixed position. Re replacing the pulley (per the instructions), I never did. I ran that by my IH dealer when I read about it in the manual and they thought the pulley I had would be fine. So I kept the original pulley on. Never had a problem.
--Ray
Good morning,
I'd go "fixed" with that pulley. When I had the tiller on the 147 the long belt driving the tiller box would occasionally jump off the pulley. I think it was because I had the spring on and it wasn't in a fixed position. Re replacing the pulley (per the instructions), I never did. I ran that by my IH dealer when I read about it in the manual and they thought the pulley I had would be fine. So I kept the original pulley on. Never had a problem.
--Ray
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Nic-
No, the coil should definitely not have voltage applied to it with everything off. Something is not wired right.
No, the coil should definitely not have voltage applied to it with everything off. Something is not wired right.
Roy, pure opinion on my part. My parents bought a brand new model 125 back in 1969 when I was 8 years old. It's what I grew up driving, it's what I'm used to. I still have that 125 that my parents bought new. I took it apart a year or so ago to refurbish it. I should have it back together in oh, 4 or 5 years.
J
jott
Guest
Morning guys
its suppose to be it the mid to uper 70s with no raain all the way to next week wed. so i thought id start to take the engine out of my CCO today. Happy Cubbin' everyone!
Kraig,...you and your 125s...
its suppose to be it the mid to uper 70s with no raain all the way to next week wed. so i thought id start to take the engine out of my CCO today. Happy Cubbin' everyone!
Kraig,...you and your 125s...
QL Electric PTO & PTO crank seal questions…
All, a couple of questions. First, re the crank shaft seal behind the PTO, how do you get the darned thing out? I’ve pulled the entire PTO off and the seal is loose on the shaft, but there is nothing to get hold of to pull it out…
Second, please refer to pics. The PTO was working prior to disassembly, but looking at it, it doesn’t look so hot… There is some sort of coating missing from an area on the front of the PTO bracket and on the backside the insulation on the tiny wire seems worn off. I’m wondering if either of these should be rectified (if so, how?) prior to reassembly – or does this mean the PTO is shot and I was lucky it was working at all? Note, pic #4 the assembly is rotated 90 degrees from correct orientation for better view of damage...
Thanks for any input,
-Calvin
All, a couple of questions. First, re the crank shaft seal behind the PTO, how do you get the darned thing out? I’ve pulled the entire PTO off and the seal is loose on the shaft, but there is nothing to get hold of to pull it out…
Second, please refer to pics. The PTO was working prior to disassembly, but looking at it, it doesn’t look so hot… There is some sort of coating missing from an area on the front of the PTO bracket and on the backside the insulation on the tiny wire seems worn off. I’m wondering if either of these should be rectified (if so, how?) prior to reassembly – or does this mean the PTO is shot and I was lucky it was working at all? Note, pic #4 the assembly is rotated 90 degrees from correct orientation for better view of damage...
Thanks for any input,
-Calvin
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Calvin-
The bare coil on the front should be covered with high-temp RTV or JB<font size="-2">can't</font>Weld or some sort of epoxy. Missing insulation on the wire on the back shouldn't matter because the terminal end grounds it anyway.
The bare coil on the front should be covered with high-temp RTV or JB<font size="-2">can't</font>Weld or some sort of epoxy. Missing insulation on the wire on the back shouldn't matter because the terminal end grounds it anyway.
Josh,
Scott, I doubt Charlie would offer a free toaster. I could see perhaps a key chain fob.
Scott, I doubt Charlie would offer a free toaster. I could see perhaps a key chain fob.
J
jott
Guest
72,73,124s for me. you definately wont ever be dissaspointed with a 124. anyway i never have been.
Terry, Kraig has too many 125s, you should give it to me. i only have one
Terry, Kraig has too many 125s, you should give it to me. i only have one
Matt G.,
I'm looking forward to your upcoming "How to" write-ups regarding:
(a) Overhauling a drive clutch on a gear drive tractor, and,
(b) Installing a creeper.
I hope you share them here as well as posting them at your own Cub Site.
Ryan Wilke
I'm looking forward to your upcoming "How to" write-ups regarding:
(a) Overhauling a drive clutch on a gear drive tractor, and,
(b) Installing a creeper.
I hope you share them here as well as posting them at your own Cub Site.
Ryan Wilke
Hi all,
Im looking at a pre-'81 682 which the current owner is afraid may need an engine rebuild, (knocks and smokes). Is there a place that specializes in rebuilds of the Kohler engines if one is needed? Is there a rough estimate of what I might have to spend to have it professional rebuilt? And, is it possible to add hydraulic lift to the 682? Thanks
Allen
Im looking at a pre-'81 682 which the current owner is afraid may need an engine rebuild, (knocks and smokes). Is there a place that specializes in rebuilds of the Kohler engines if one is needed? Is there a rough estimate of what I might have to spend to have it professional rebuilt? And, is it possible to add hydraulic lift to the 682? Thanks
Allen
Don T.,
As Matt G. mentioned, chloride will EAT your rims in a short order!
The first place to look for a leak is at the tube stem. When you're working the tires/tractor, the rim cuts and pulls at the stems, breaking them down. A stem leak may not show itself until you happen to park with the stem at the bottom of the tire AND where any leaked chloride solution will be noticed (like on dry concrete).
Yep, there is a trade off using windshield washer fluid, as it isn't as heavy per gallon as chloride solution, but it isn't corrosive to the rims (not if, but when) a leak develops.
Ryan Wilke
As Matt G. mentioned, chloride will EAT your rims in a short order!
The first place to look for a leak is at the tube stem. When you're working the tires/tractor, the rim cuts and pulls at the stems, breaking them down. A stem leak may not show itself until you happen to park with the stem at the bottom of the tire AND where any leaked chloride solution will be noticed (like on dry concrete).
Yep, there is a trade off using windshield washer fluid, as it isn't as heavy per gallon as chloride solution, but it isn't corrosive to the rims (not if, but when) a leak develops.
Ryan Wilke
J
jott
Guest
Allen, I live down by fond du lac Wisconsin and all i know of are some local lawnmower fix-it shops that can do it if you are up to being broke afterword. I dont know of any place in partcular that does kohler engines. Yes you can put a hydralic lift on it, which would make it a 782. that was the only difference between the 682 and 782.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Allen-
You'd be better off looking for a replacement KT-17 series II or Magnum 18. I'm fairly sure that tractor probably still has the original KT-17 series I, which is not rebuildable. If the spec number is below 24300, it is a series I.
You'd be better off looking for a replacement KT-17 series II or Magnum 18. I'm fairly sure that tractor probably still has the original KT-17 series I, which is not rebuildable. If the spec number is below 24300, it is a series I.
Calvin - <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
All, a couple of questions. First, re the crank shaft seal behind the PTO, how do you get the darned thing out? I’ve pulled the entire PTO off and the seal is loose on the shaft, but there is nothing to get hold of to pull it out… <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Screw it ! No honestly !! Donald said a while back that he puts a sheet metal screw in it and pulls it with pliers.
That's TWICE in 2 days I had to respond to how to pull one ........
All, a couple of questions. First, re the crank shaft seal behind the PTO, how do you get the darned thing out? I’ve pulled the entire PTO off and the seal is loose on the shaft, but there is nothing to get hold of to pull it out… <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Screw it ! No honestly !! Donald said a while back that he puts a sheet metal screw in it and pulls it with pliers.
That's TWICE in 2 days I had to respond to how to pull one ........
ALLEN S, JOSH - I live outside Madison and have used two different shops in this area. Was not satisfied and used one in Fond Du Lac recommended by Dave Kirk for machining on my K321. There's a K241 waiting for $$$$ to be rebuilt in the shop and it's going back to FDL.
A KT17 will not be cheap to totally rebuild. My Buddy rebuilt his in his off-topic tractor about 10-15 yrs ago. Bored both cylinders, ground valves, ground crankshaft, all new seals/gaskets, rods, pistons, rings, wrist pins. I saw the bill and it was over $1000.
SO, that makes Matt's suggestion of a new Magnum 18 that much wiser. Several shops I talked to always said the series 1 KT17's never lasted over 1000 hours. The M18 is a much better engine.
A KT17 will not be cheap to totally rebuild. My Buddy rebuilt his in his off-topic tractor about 10-15 yrs ago. Bored both cylinders, ground valves, ground crankshaft, all new seals/gaskets, rods, pistons, rings, wrist pins. I saw the bill and it was over $1000.
SO, that makes Matt's suggestion of a new Magnum 18 that much wiser. Several shops I talked to always said the series 1 KT17's never lasted over 1000 hours. The M18 is a much better engine.
KENtuckyKEN
Do you ever have the feeling you have to repeat yourself? I found two screws work the best for seal removal.That lets you work it back and forth a bit. It works for me lol.
Just got back from the tire shop, $30.00 for a new tube! The tube had a big slit in the side and no probems with the tire.
Do you ever have the feeling you have to repeat yourself? I found two screws work the best for seal removal.That lets you work it back and forth a bit. It works for me lol.
Just got back from the tire shop, $30.00 for a new tube! The tube had a big slit in the side and no probems with the tire.
