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Archive through May 04, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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the rest of the story
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A pretty good Cub couple of days. Yesterday the lawn got mowed, and I didn't have to tinker with it, with the exception of pumping up the chronically leaky right rear tire. Today the replacement tire arrived, a project I can do at my leisure.

Today I hauled out the 102 and gave it a little exercise hauling around horse manure and mushroom soil with my utility cart to fertilize/mulch the vineyard. Starting to think about putting together the deck for it out of parts of 2 decks, but mower duty makes a tractor ugly quick.

Got the vineyard looking good!

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Ken, plan on measuring that this weekend. Little league has officially started and then that whole work thing gets in the way all the time...I'll have to measure the pin on top also. I can't remember if the one I'm using came the the Original or the 149 sleeve hitch setup or if there is even a difference between the two.
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Thanks KENtuckyKEN, I'll check the items you mentioned. I'm also having the seam problem as Hal. I've tried adjusting the carb..unsure if it's adjusted correctly as I believe it's not a factory one. the governer linkage is different than in the manual. I'll be sure to check the points though. Thanks for all the help! I love these tractors!
 
Keep at it Nick you will get it adjusted, and I know work and little league I still have 3 out of 4 playing. I hope to start reassembling my 129 soon its getting a "Earl Shibe" rattle can paint job. Pics sooner or later.
 
Wayne, I know this from experiance I just delt
with it a weak ago your head gasskett is bad you
need a new one asap when you put it in you will proably have lots more compreeion therefor blowing stuff past worn piston rings it can blow smoke out the engin breather or blow your dipstik out (happend to me 2 times since I put a new gasskett in) so if you want to stop this while your in there put new piston rings in
oh by the way take a paint scraper and get all the carbon build up off and DONT SCATCH THE CYLINDER.
 
Hal and Elliot if you can post pics of the problem areas people may spot the problem on occasion. Like carb linkage and more.
 
Hi Guys, My Kohler engine identification tags are so faded I'm not sure I'm reading the serial numbers correctly. Is serial number range information for the K161 and K241 available? Also, can new tags still be purchased? I thought I saw them on one of the vintage cub parts sites awhile back, but no luck now...
 
Nick H -

I don't mean to insult you, but to make sure we aren't overlooking the obvious: you don't have a drawbar hitch mounted on the back of the gearbox frame, do you? I had one on mine a couple years ago (left the gearbox mounted year-round) and forgot to remove it before hitching up the tiller. It never seemed to till as deep as it should. Turns out the tiller couldn't clear the drawbar. My face matched the color of my 782 when I finally figured it out!
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Probably a long shot, but...
 
Acording to the manual you can only have 7" of travel with a properly mounted tiller. For traction when i was plowing with a molboard plow I had 12 lb. air in my tires. I went back and checked my tiller on the 124 and acurately measured only 6.25 travel. I then put 25 lb. air in my rear tires,Readjusted my depth control and increased travel to just over 7". A couple weights on the front of tractor wouuld help also. The front gets light when making sharp turns. Just my 02c
 
Well I`am pissed this am. my plans for the addition to my 28' x 30' shop can not be built. I went to the county to ask about a permit to build a 12'x19' addition to my garage for tractor storage. well they want me to install full cement footings and walls. I must insulate. So I ask what is the biggest shed that I can build without a permit and was told 12'x16'. So the shed will now be built .slab garages are not allowed now,The cost went up from 2 thousand to 12 if I did what the county wants.
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Donald - What we have here is ,"A failure to communicate." You want a 12x19 but they will only allow you to build a 12x16 without a permit.
Build two ! Build the first one then wait a couple weeks then make an "addition" on it 12x3.
 
KENtuckyKEN
Well this is a pain in the a$$ for sure. I wanted to put on a metal roof and side it to look good.there are way to many restrictions these days and only getting worse. I have to go and see if my Cub hauling trailer is finished. I`am having ramps installed to the tail gate so this pair can`t be taken when left parked.the trailer never had brakes and on that size trailer ( 14' deck) I think it should ,so electric brakes will be installed also. Rain here this morn so no seat time on my 129 loader getting the pad ready for the new storage shed, but we need rain here. Have a great day
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WAYNE S. - As you found out, finger-tight headbolts won't keep a head gasket sealing. I'd try to remove as much of that cruddy oil from the cooling fins as you can. It's almost impossible to remove once it's baked on. I've had the best luck cleaning dirty engines, hydro transmissions, etc. while still on a tractor with GUNK Foamy Engine cleaner, spray it on while the component is warm, let soak, rinse off with a garden hose & nozzel. Pressure washers blow water into too many places it doesn't belong!
Those mufflers ALL leak like that to some extent, about all you can do is keep the clamp as tight as you can. The valve springs in a Kohler are NOT strong. I've removed/installed valve springs with two similar-sized screwdrivers in one hand and a magnetic probe in the other hand to fish out/install the keepers for the retainers, and I have a compressor similar to the one Frank posted the pic of. The screwdriver way is FASTER. A "Third Hand" with the engine on a car engine stand makes things faster still. And I know your muffler attachs to that heat shield, but I'd make a small bracket to attach the muffler to the S/G top bracket, something 1/8" thk X 1" wide works great, couple inchs long, and leave that heat shield hanging on a nail someplace in your shop. It kept you from seeing the leaking head gasket and may have had something to do with the loose headbolts or studs & nuts.

CALVIN L. - To add to what MATT already said, Actually LockTight Blue would help those footrest bolts/screws keep from corroding & siezing into place and make them EASIER to remove. Matt's suggestion of anti-sieze is the way to go though! IH used A LOT of button head Phillips screws to hold sheetmetal on various different families of equipment. WHY? Because TORX headed fasteners hadn't been invented yet! I'd visit a GOOD hardware store get some TORX headed screws to replace those Phillips head screws. I have Allen or Hex socket head capscrews in my 982 only because I couldn't find Torx.
 
If you look at the picture of Waynes engine posted on the last thread, You will see there is oil/gas seeping by the headgasket. When i took the head off of the &hp on my "O" there was more carbon than you could possibly imagine. So I scraped it all off and cleaned piston, valves, and the rest of the top of the block. Then I put it all back together(with an old headgasket That I got with the tractor) Poured in fresh gas and she fired right up but it was smoking and the head area was seeping like in that picture but not as bad.
 
John Lang
thats a big garden you have. I see you also have a few attachments for that green tractor, and I like the tractor hauling trailer. Looks easy to get tractors on there.
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Don T..
I hate building regs... Will they let you attach a carport on the side? It may be a solution to keep stuff out of the weather... you could then plant shrubs to hide it from the missus' view...
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QL 1450 Oil leak from PTO crank seal, breather rebuild and tune-up...

It's been suggested to both Gary & I that a plugged breather might be what is causing the oil leak on the crank seal behind the PTO. I'm going to replace the seal, but it makes sense to refresh the breather as well. Today I'm going to call the local IH dealer to see if they've got the parts I need for a tune up/PTO seal replacement. I might as well ask for anything else needed to rehab the breather assembly as well. Anyone have advice on what to ask for?

I am also going to do the bushings - but use after market ones until I'm sure all oil leaks are accounted for. I am planning on buying the pre-modified engine cradle and a cast iron oil pan online.

Right now my list includes (this is bare bones - just to get it mowing again)

- Head gasket (just in case...)
- Crank seal - PTO side
- Walbro carb rebuild kit (my carb says WHC on it)
- air filter
- pre-air filter
- spark plug
- points
- points cover gasket
- air cleaner to carb gasket
- engine air breather filter
- engine air breather gasket
- oil
- hydro oil filter
- hytran

Am I missing anything?

Thanks!

-Calvin
 
Deciphering ‘70s Cub Serial #s:

I was wondering if there was a webpage related to what all the digits on a IH Cub serial number plate mean?

The number on my 1450 is: 2050660U585430*

I was just wondering what they all meant.

Thanks,

-Calvin
 

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