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Archive through May 03, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Craig Carney:
You may be right. Desks may have come from Michigan Ave offices. We may have records somewhere in the building. I don't know if those offices were occupied on Michigan Ave when the wheels feel off IH and they sold the Ag division. It's all very interesting.
 
Dennis:
HOLY COW!!!!!!!!
You da man when it comes to math and spraying. Man, my brain is frying trying to figure out how you figure it out. . .

I throw one quart into the 16 gallon tank, fill with water, and drive the 100 like heck in 2nd gear 3/4 throttle and hope it only takes one tank for 3/4 acres!!!!!!!!!!

I usually make it. I've been using Bayer lately purchased at Home Depot. It has a higher percentage of 2-4-D in the quart than Spectrum.
 
Kendall,
Here's my rig. Bought the sprayer at Farm and Fleet along with a couple of spray nozzles and hose. I get about a 4 foot spread. The pump is small and produces 35 psi. Seems to do the job. Almost everything dies within a week or so.
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DB,

Didn't those PTO's power get routed through the ignition switch? If so, I remember a lot of issues with the ignition switch acting like what you have described...
 
Hey Kraig,
The post about the derailed thread reminds me of the time Bryan McMeen got hold of the throttle of a locomotive when he was a kid. Here's the documentation:
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Ray, yep, I recently came across that one too. I wonder if that gives Bryan the shakes?
 
Back to the Hydro 782, it must be a wiring issue. Even if the circuit is unhooked that runs to the PTO, the engine still stalls, so the clutch must be OK and as suggested, it should be a wiring issue.

So I move from the front of the engine (which I can now reassemble) to the dash board. I do not like chasing down electrical gremlins, but I can certainly start bypassing circuits to find the problem.

Looking through my Kohler twin cylinder service manual, it has some basic electrical for the starter and coil pertaining to the KT17 but no electrical for the PTO. Any assistance with this info?


As an addendum, we spray with a 2-4-D amine purchased from the local farm store. It is safe for livestock and around the pond. Two varieties, one for all graasss, one for broadleaf weeds. 2.5 oz / gallon. The horses can graze after a one week wait. Grass cannot be cut for 4 weeks to ensure the spray is 100% effective.
 
Cbpools,
If memory serves me correct, the 782 operator presence safety switch (switch under the seat) will only kill the motor when the pto is engaged. If the pto is not engaged, you do not have to be on the seat for the engine to run, but turn on the pto when not on the seat, and it will kill the motor. I would make sure the switch under the seat is working.
Mike
 
I finally got the governor on the 129 right! After a fruitless 3rd teardown, I finally found the missing link, or in this case a brass washer. On the stub shaft where the governor flyweights go, before I went in a 4th time I tore down the old motor for the 129. I then realized that it was missing a .035 inch thick brass washer that went between the flyweight assembly and the block. Somehow the original got lost between the teardown and the machine shop, and I never realized it was supposed to be there.
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.

With Dad to help me with the teardown and give advice, we built the engine up this morning. Dad was a little hesitant about the cam timing, but it finally fired up with a working governor!! We installed the mower deck and I took it on a "victory lap", but the PTO clutch I had taken from the 125 started slipping badly. Back to the garage, then after lunch I decided go get a rebuild kit that my local Cub Cadet dealer had, and rebuild the PTO. While I was there, an older fellow wearing an IH hat was in front of me talking about PTO problems of his own with his 128. After I spent my $70 on a rebuild kit, I met up with him outside, he was unsure how to proceed. I told him that the setup should be identical to my 129 and invited him to follow me back to my place nearby, and I told Dad I had a student, and we rebuilt my PTO together. The kit included new anti-rattle springs, which were a bear to install, but they should at least be secure. My student had to leave, but he said he knew where I lived now, so he might just come calling on me for help. I noticed the engine sorta surged and coasted around the set speed every few seconds. I had grass to mow so I let it go for the time being, but by the time I was finished cutting the 2 1/2 acres of lawn, it was running on an even keel.
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Here's another update on the PTO clutch. After it was delivered today, it took some persuading but it went on without too much of an issue. Here's where the fun begins: the wear button wouldn't go on without some sanding down of the shaft (of the button) but it pressed into place like it should. I adjusted it correctly with the turnbuckle per the service manual, but upon running the engine, the clutch would not disengage. After about 30 seconds of the engine running, the wear button exploded.
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Would it make a difference that the clutch was not connected to anything else (IE a mower deck)?

Thanks
 
Charlie, finally got out to measure the 50" deck with speed up pulley on my 149. The original pulley measured 5" across and the speed up pulley is about 4.25". I am using belt # 59971C1. I use the same set-up on my 1650. I hope this answers your questions.
 
DG, without any resistance, I could see that the clutch wouldn't stop, the friction between the wear button and the mate on the PTO wouldn't be really enough to overcome the friction of the bearing the PTO sets on. If that bearing is stiff or is failing, I could easily see that happening.

As for my day, well let it be said that the 129 and the Park Avenue can finally coexist.

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Daniel,your wear button did not come apart from not having anything mated to it. Something was not alighned or put together wrong.
Sorry about the button,but when you get a new one use a brass one from our sponsers BTDT
 
I managed to wear out one of the brass wear buttons on the 129. The button on the PTO was trashed due to metal to metal contact when a PO ran it with a bolt, and caused quick disintegration of the fiber button. Even in its trashed state, the bronze button still lasted me 5 years though. I had to drill out what was left of the button in order to get it out, like it had fused to the steel throwout lever. The fiber buttons are brittle, and if they aren't seated fully they will spin on the shaft, and too much force to seat the button can cause it to crack. If you go with another fiber button, you might want to hollow grind the area around the hole in the throwout lever very slightly to make sure the edges of the flat area of the button seat.
 
Another hard days work with this baby. Love my 682. Haven't posted in the forum in a LONG while and thought I'd post a pic of my 682.

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Hey guys, what is the max rpm's for a kohler k301a ? I was told 3800 but wasn't sure. Thanks
 
Any chance you have a shot of your front tires on that 100? I see you have wider back ones too, you like them on it? Trying to decide on which style of front tire to put on my 100. Not sure if going for tri-ribs or turf's again?

ps
Ray, that desk is awesome! Like the IH logo on it!

Just wondering, is there a trick to seperate the spindle "cap" off the left spindle on a 100? I removed the roll pin and then noticed the top is welded, but that is just to join the ring to the arm that the steering linkage hooks to right? Take a small chisel and seperate the ring from the top of the axle once the roll pin is out? Just don't want to start whaling on the front axle and spindle.

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