Archive through May 02, 2011

[dkeefer]

Kraig,
Thanks for the discussion, I appreciate it. I am hoping to get to the fan soon, but am not quite sure how soon it will be. I just didn't want to regret not doing it sooner. Also, I think my 1450 has a 50A deck, but am trying to identify this based on the ID tag. I looked at the serial numbers from the FAQ's page, but none of them match up with the numbers on my tag. Is there somewher I might be able to locate which deck I have???

 

[proessler]

David go to *Cub Cadet Parts Lookup* above^^^^, U may be able to plug #'s & find some info or go to manual section for more info.

 

[dkeefer]

Paul,
Good idea on checking on the parts lookup. I will try that and let you know. I have checked the FAQ's section as well as manuals and haven't found anything. I will check the parts lookup and let you know.

 

[cledford]

Recommendations for ISO mounts for 1450?

I need to replace the ISO mounts on my 1450. I've got a few questions.

- How often do the "snubbers" need replacing - are they available? (I don't recall seeing anyone ever mention them...)

- Does IH still sell ISOs? Are they worth the reported price? (I seem to recall seeing somewhere that they'd "changed" them and the new wasn't as good as the old)

- If I should just use aftermarket mounts - whos? Also, pretty much all of my existing mounts are shot. The bottoms are flattened and the tops extremely soft - due to a severe oil leak allowed by the previous owner. So - I'll be replacing them all...

- Is the cross bar engine mount worth the cost? I've heard some say no and saw somewhere that at some point IH/cub was actually doing a crossbar modification. Should I, or shouldn't I?

- Solid mounts - a consideration? I've got a 169 (I purchased as a future project) and it doesn't seem to vibrate too much. The reality is all the other cubs (excluding the QL) all had solid mounted engines. So should I just bite the bullet and by the solid mounts? In doing so, is there something unique about the QL series that could be affected by not having a shock mounted engine?

Thanks!

-Calvin

 

[dkeefer]

Alright, no luck on the parts look up either. The identification number is 501U1112. Any suggestions..

 

[proessler]

Calvin did you check Charlie's FAQ#23?

 

[proessler]

David did U lookup Model 50A with 5 different assembly sections to do a visual look to verify a match to your mower deck.

 

[rodsmith]

Can a person tell what day a CCO was built, besides the month and year? SERIAL# 13744 was built JULY 1961.Just curious!
ROD

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Coud anybody tell me if a QA 36B snowthrower will work on either my 782 or 1250? I looked in FAQ's and manuals section but could not verify what model snowthrower is correct. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance. T-

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry, the QA36B is what would have been sold for use on the 782. It will however also work on the 1250 and narrow frame Cub Cadets that have the QA mounts.

Rod, sadly, there's no way to tell what day exactly a Cub Cadet was built. Except for perhaps the start and end numbers for a given month...

 

[rodsmith]

Thanks KRAIG,
That's what I figured, but it didn't hurt to ask.
Least finally found my '61' O. and it was built in JULY.
Will post a picture when I can.

 

[jkemp]

I been searching for a issue on the this site and never found my issue. Im having with my rebuilt K341 new piston, rings, rod and .010 bored. I got the manual from my dad and followed it to the tee, while i thought. I set the governor, points, carb, added gas. The engine started right up. so I tuned the idle and when I move the thottle it wants to run away. Never push it to run away all the way. I don't want to rebuild again. On idle it's nice and smooth running. As soon as get a engine load it wants to die/rough running, and when it goes down a hill the engine revs up. So sorry for the long post just pulling my hair out. I have looked at the manual many time and cross shaft is free side to side and not spinning and CS collar in in place. I would love to make any one some decals for any one that could walk me thought it. Just a thanks. I have a sign shop and can make cut vinyl graphics. THanks Justin

 

[dross]

Justin, when it trys to "runaway" grab the top of the govenor arm, is thier resistance there? or does it just move freely?

 

[jkemp]

when I go down the hill and the engine revs and just reach down and pull the arm back and the revs decrease. Move pretty freely. O I also replace the governor gear due to 3 teeth missing on the old one. Thanks

 

[dross]

Justin, If you don't have any resistance then theres an internal problem with the govenor. Or you have the throttle cable itself missadjusted.
If it was me go back through the govenor adjustment proceedure again. Loosen the bolt on the gov. shaft and, with a pair of pliars, turn the shaft, top to the left, while doing that pull the top of the govenor arm to the right. without moveing anything tighten up the adjustment bolt. Do this adjustment with the throttle at idle. You could also pull the plug in the front of the engine to see what is going on in there. You can't post a picture of that side of the engine can you?

 

[dross]

Justin, it got to bugging me after I said it. I went and checked the proccedure. "while holding the shaft counter-clockwise pull the top of the arm away from the carb", Oops, sorry for that.

 

[mgonitzke]

Calvin-

The snubbers are still available, I think. They were a couple years ago. The 1650 I put them in a few years back needed new ones because they were all gooey from an oil leak. I think they're about $10 each. Stick with the OEM mounts...use the original length bolts and new nylock nuts, and tighten them so that 1 thread shows outside of the nut. It will be smooth at full throttle. I have tried using the cheap shortcut chassis mounts and they suck compared to the OEM ones. Do the cradle mod mentioned on here as well. It will help the mounts last longer.

Solid mounting it will shake your teeth out-- a 1450 with solid mounts would probably shake more than a 169 because the engine is mounted more rigidly in the 169. A solid-mounted engine in a QL is a less rigid setup because of the extra pieces between the frame and engine.

 

[dtanner]

good news ! my 129 will have the hyd lines removed from the loader and we will have hard lines installed next week. I ask if some one that has hard lines on a loader could post a few pictures so I can give them to the guy that will do the work.He called me today and ask if I could get him some pictures to look at. I think He just wants to clean up the mess he made with the lines he installed now ,and He wants a mower deck I have lol.

It will be great to be able to finally finish the 129 and install the decals. Thanks in advance Later Don T

 

[memorgan]

Having a problem after just finishing an overhaul on a 16hp. Engine on start up was difficult. once I got it started, it acts like the carboration is off, its all set according to the manual also and I"m concerned in the area of the camshaft, before reasseembling I noticed that the end of the cam that the point rod rides on was grooved badly,so I replaced it with a used cam that I removed from a good used motor, I"m under the assumpation that all the cams from 10 to 16 interchange, I removed the motor and pulled the pan, made sure that all the timing marks were correct,they are. I over hauled a 16 a year ago, Never had a problem , also the valves had a ball bearing and spring round part on the bottom of the spring,one was missing some of the ball bearings missing so I replaced them with the plain solid keepers, changing the cam, would that warrent a check of the tappet clearance? Any Ideas Thanks

 

[thill]

A Guy near me has an IH Cub deck for available to me.

Not sure of model yet but has 3 new spindles , no rust, good paint all baffles thinking its 42" or 44". He says it does not fit his 149 due to an offset of the hanger. "The two eyes don't line up with the front of the triangular shape of the deck."

Hoping that it would fit my 169 without too much modification. Any thoughts?