- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Dean-
That's an incredibly simple (smart) design. Very nice!!
That's an incredibly simple (smart) design. Very nice!!
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through May 02, 2010
- Thread starter aaytay
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Darryl
First of all, that is an incredible cub cadet you made!! I will be glad if mine comes out half as nice.
I would like to use a gearbox in my design. Where did you get the one for your tractor?
Thanks for all that you have shared with us, Dean
First of all, that is an incredible cub cadet you made!! I will be glad if mine comes out half as nice.
I would like to use a gearbox in my design. Where did you get the one for your tractor?
Thanks for all that you have shared with us, Dean
Thanks to everyone for there comments. This really is an incredible resource. I will continue to post my progress. My final plans involve a small gearbox from an unknown resource for now. Any recomendations are appreciated. I also plan on using only one transmission like Scott's design. I have hydraulic steering just need to know where each port on the orbital gets hooked too.
Dean
Dean
dylschmidt
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2007
- Messages
- 104
- displayname
- Darryl Schmidt
Thanks Dean.
I used a gear box made by Hubcity. 1:1 ratio with 3 inch center/center shaft spacing, and is small enough to fit into the frame....
I played around with a belt drive and I think that could work just fine..
a cogged belt would be smooth, quiet and the side load would be less that a v-belt.
even a chain drive could work, enclosed would be better...
well good luck and be sure to keep us posted.
Darryl
I used a gear box made by Hubcity. 1:1 ratio with 3 inch center/center shaft spacing, and is small enough to fit into the frame....
I played around with a belt drive and I think that could work just fine..
a cogged belt would be smooth, quiet and the side load would be less that a v-belt.
even a chain drive could work, enclosed would be better...
well good luck and be sure to keep us posted.
Darryl
Dean - What's the brand of the orbital ?
If it's MTD's Cub orbital then I have a booklet on it for the assembly so it should have the ports marked.
I got one that was like new that I needed to shorten for a project but I never did cut it or put it back together. I need to see if it's still good and put it together !!
If it's MTD's Cub orbital then I have a booklet on it for the assembly so it should have the ports marked.
I got one that was like new that I needed to shorten for a project but I never did cut it or put it back together. I need to see if it's still good and put it together !!
Darryl- What did something like that cost you? I thought I would use a belt system for now. I would like to put larger tires on it so having the option of changing the ratio (crank/input shaft) after trying it out with pulleys would be easy. Then build or buy a gearbox with that ratio later. Thanks for the info
KENtuckyKEN - I,m not sure of the make of the orbital. I will take a picture and post it on Tuesday or Wednesday this week. I have a orbital and cylinder but, need a pump. Mabye once I get the picture up we could determine what sort of pump I need?
Thanks, Dean
Thanks, Dean
Dean~
I will throw in my $.02. I am working on building an articulated tractor as well, with a very extensive hydraulic system. Sizing the hydraulics properly is very important. I went into it with the thought that I could just mix and match and piece things together. WRONG. You will get very unpredictable results doing so, if not blowing stuff up. Fortunatly I am no where near being completed on my project and hadn't purchased much of anything for the hydraulics so I didn't spend needlessly.
I will throw in my $.02. I am working on building an articulated tractor as well, with a very extensive hydraulic system. Sizing the hydraulics properly is very important. I went into it with the thought that I could just mix and match and piece things together. WRONG. You will get very unpredictable results doing so, if not blowing stuff up. Fortunatly I am no where near being completed on my project and hadn't purchased much of anything for the hydraulics so I didn't spend needlessly.
dylschmidt
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2007
- Messages
- 104
- displayname
- Darryl Schmidt
Dean.
If I remember correctly, around $160.
I think a cogged belt system could work good.
Good luck, be sure to keep us posted.
Darryl
If I remember correctly, around $160.
I think a cogged belt system could work good.
Good luck, be sure to keep us posted.
Darryl
Daweber, I'm no expert on hydraulics. I can hook up a hose or rebuild a cylinder. Haven't had to do anymore than that.
KENtuckyKEN
I didn't take a picture but, the orbital is a Char-Lynn made by Eaton
the number on the tag is 211 1008 002
Anyone know what kind of pump I need?
KENtuckyKEN
I didn't take a picture but, the orbital is a Char-Lynn made by Eaton
the number on the tag is 211 1008 002
Anyone know what kind of pump I need?
Darryl
Thanks for the info on the gearbox. I agree on the cogged belt system. I thought about using 2 top gears on a timing chain set from a car engine, a shortened chain, and building a case to hold the oil. It is more work then I want to do for now. I have lots of car parts so I try incorporating them into my plans. Sometimes it makes more work so I wonder if spending a little money on few items would be better off. The price on that gearbox seems reasonable if it will last.
Thanks for the info on the gearbox. I agree on the cogged belt system. I thought about using 2 top gears on a timing chain set from a car engine, a shortened chain, and building a case to hold the oil. It is more work then I want to do for now. I have lots of car parts so I try incorporating them into my plans. Sometimes it makes more work so I wonder if spending a little money on few items would be better off. The price on that gearbox seems reasonable if it will last.
I’ve made more progress on the Mini-Cub. I finally got the sheet metal and fiberglass work about finished. I need to find a screen mesh suitable for the front grill screen. I think the grill is going to look thinner and taller then I wanted, but I’ll have to live with it. I have to wait for some warm, dry weather to finish the painting, but most everything else is done. I tried to keep a log of the build process and posted it here. I need to do a lot of proofreading but it should give a good idea of the process for anyone that’s interested.
mgwin
Well-known member
Looking good Paul!
i added power steering to my 1450 by using handpump and valve from 1460 ih combine(keeping it IH )cylinder is off 820 header (for and aft reel cylinder)i shortened it to 6 in. stroke and 2 in.off ram with bolt welded to end for tie end.it is all tucked away unnoticeable except for cylinder.all mower and other componets clear(barely).ram will contact frame at full left turn and tilt,but not hard enough to hurt.i started with 2055 cotton picker hand pump 4 lines and no valve. it didnt have constant return to supply origanal hyd.and kept system under strain. one full turn of steering is fullturn of wheels from stop to stop.sounds quick but works out good.drove it around for an hour before dissasembling.i will post more pics after it painted and all together
Some of you may not be interested but I shall start working on an articulating Cub sometime in the next week I am in the planning phase right now and thanks to Daryl Schmidt I have got most of my major details planned out however I was hoping that some of you on this forum could give me some info on where i could get hydraulic valves I am planing on using one transaxle to steer and work front two valves and rear transaxle to run 4 quick connect fittings (for future implements) but im not sure how would be the best way to do this so what do you guys think use two valves (possibly old loader valve) for rear and use splitters and use a single valve with a splitter for the front two outlets? Any help/input would be greatly appreciated
Ryan~To answer your questions. For your hydraulic components you should check out www.surpluscenter.com or ebay. For valves in a perfect world you idealy should have a individual valve for each remote you want to control. However depending on your requirements you can get around that.
You can't reverse the rotation of the hydro straight out of the box. You have to take the pump apart and change some things around and I haven't seen a definite yes or no on if you have to flip the carrier around. On my articulated I am building I flipped both transmissions around and am driving them "backwards" because my engine has the wrong rotation. In doing that I do have to flip the carriers.
You can't reverse the rotation of the hydro straight out of the box. You have to take the pump apart and change some things around and I haven't seen a definite yes or no on if you have to flip the carrier around. On my articulated I am building I flipped both transmissions around and am driving them "backwards" because my engine has the wrong rotation. In doing that I do have to flip the carriers.
