Archive through May 01, 2008

[mjrobilotta]

thats cool.

 

[blanasa]

Hey all,
I seemed to have misplaced my lift bar for my 3 point hitch.

#4 in pic. Can anyone post the dimensions for this please?
Thanks, Brian L

 

[aschmidt]

Hey guys, I saw this on ebay and am interested in anyone has any info for this. It is a conversion for a cub cadet tiller to Cat 0 - 3 point. I have a guy that has some parts and will draw them up so I can reproduce them, but we are looking for some info/pics on how they mount, what parts we are missing, etc. Any help would be appreciated. If I get it figured out I will make the parts for sale! Thanks All!

 

[jegstad]

Harry M.

I've got a hydro with no brakes and have never needed them except if I try to park on a hill. If I need to I just turn so the tractor is pointed cross-hill.

 

[kide]

Harry:
Disregard this part of the post from one of our younger forum members-
"if prefer the gear drives. no belts to slip, stretch, break. no need to adjust.
plus gear drives seem to receive more power than the hydros. not to mention they stay at constant speed."
The IHC built Cub Cadet Hydros use a driveshaft from the engine to the transmission, just like the manual gearboxes, except there isn't a clutch in the middle. There is no belt in the driveline (there wasn't one in any of the IHC Garden tractors after the first model (The Original). As far as power loss, there's something to be said for the smooth application of power to the wheels from a dead stop that's harder to get with a clutch. I push, pull and drag stuff with a 129 all the time and for it's size, I never have felt it was under powered. As far as staying at constant speed -????? He must have been driving a "greenie" with one of them sidwinder, belt driven slushboxes....
On the other hand, any Cub, gearbox or hydro is gonna be great ! Go get one !!

Oh and BTW - I (mis)spent part of my youth plowing snow on an Original (WHEN IT WAS NEW), so, yup I have used other than a hydro.....

 

[sblunier]

Aaron,

This should help....

For what it's worth, this is the slickest way out there to install a #2 tiller...hook it over, pin the top link, hook on the lift tugs, put on the belt....the PITA hooking the tiller to the gear box step is eliminated, as they stay as a complete unit.

 

[aschmidt]

Steve, Thanks for the info. That helps me understand how it works. All my tractors have 3 points and I want to be able to use it on any of them. Anyone out there got any more info?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good early morning. A couple minutes before I start work. On the subject of brakes on a hydro. About eight years ago I read an article about a farmer and his, "Always used the hydro instead of brakes after my brakes wore out." Doing that almost cost him his life. While going up a slight incline he slowed way down throttle wise to cross a bridge. The engine stalled and the combine rolled backwards until it stopped in a steep ditch. Farmer was scratched up pretty bad and deemed very lucky. He learned his lesson the hard way. That nice looking CaseIH combine was totaled.

 

[lhinds]

Harry; I have been using cub cadets for 40 years, and have owned gear drives and hydros. Overall I think the hydros are more versatile. They move at a snail pace if you need them to even at wide open throttle. Maintenance is no problem. Parts are available for both gear and hydro from our knowledgeable sponsors. I Do prefer Hydrolic or electric lift which can be added if not already equiped. Just my 2c
Luther

 

[fcurrier]

Brian L.: When you find that lift bar, it will be a straight piece of bar stock 25 1/2" long, 1 3/8" wide, and 3/8" thick. 13/16" hole on one end, 5/8" hole on the other end. Each hole leaves about 1/4" of "meat" on each end. If this doesn't help, at least it keeps your question in view.

 

[dmull]

Aaron, I used one on my 782D...it is really nice. Note, this is for the non-super tractors, but you could probably get it to work on a super with a little bit of work.

 

[bchalk]

help(again)!! my 129 won't crank, but when i turn the key, it sounds like the soleniod is clicking. Battery is fully charged, even tried jumper cables. change the soleniod?

 

[kweaver]

Brad - Check battery cables and the neg. real good.
Then if it still doesn't start lightly tap the sol. while turning the key to see if it'll catch. If it does then replace it.

 

[bchalk]

i'll try that too!! thanks

 

[chunt]

So, This Original I have..... Where again would I find the serial number? Is it on a tag, or is it the cast number in the trans housing... Does anyone have a pic of where I should look??

To be honest with y'all, the more I look at this tractor, the more I think it's in such good shape, why not add it to my collection.

Hey Art, any words of wisdom about the CCO?? I like the way yours looks. are the fenders a later addition to the standard equipment, or are they an add-on?


Carey

 

[digger]

Carey H.
There's a reason why we have FAQ pages listed above.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's the photos of Michael's 100.

 

[blanasa]

Frank C:
Thanks!

That's what I need. I'm going to make a new one. <font size="-2">(that way the one that's missing will turn up)

</font>

 

[cvaughan]

A couple of questions:1- I was wondering what model cub cadets had gas tanks that would switch out with the Cub Cadet Original? and 2- The Original I have does not have a hood emblem or grill emblem. Where would I find information that will lead me to purchase the correct emblems?
Thanks.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Curtis, welcome!

The model 70, 71, 72 and 73 all used the same fuel tank as the Original. Check the some of the sponsors above, those colorful boxes are links to their websites, they may have in stock or might be able to get the grill emblem and or hood ornament.