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Archive through May 01, 2005

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Hey I was working a little on my 1250 today. I had to put lights in the garage and do some running around after church, so I didn't get much accomplished but take the fenders off, but now I have an idea of whats going on in there.

I noticed some considerable slow down on up hills the last time I mowed, also I put the brake on and jumpped off the tractor to throw some grass clippings into the trailer and I noticed the tractor was creeping in reverse very slowly... obviously the brakes don't work and the neutral position is wrong... but I thought I would take a look at the old trunion also, it is 30 years old right?

What do you guys think, like the key chain? I love ebay!

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How does the trunion look, good, bad, typical?
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Chuck
 
Chuck, I'd repair the trunnion and replace those springs and adjust the neutral.
 
Chuck, fix the trunion and replace the springs...they need it, trust me.
 
Tom H: I'm sure there are some NAPA stores like that, I'm just thankful that the one I go to isn't..........

I get several things there for my tractors...the Cub Cadets, and the Farmall H.

While I was at the Cub Cadet dealer Saturday, I spotted a 582 Special, a 682, and a 782 (along with several used CCC/MTD built Cub Cadets) under the canopy. I'm kinda gettin' the itch to have a 782...
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...but then again the 3000 series GT's are pretty cool...man my wife would scald my hide
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if I bought one of those.
 
Chuck F. and anybody else working on their trunion here is a suggestion.

When you remove the side plate on the trunion take the retaining ring to your local hardware store and get an aftermarket one. The Cub ones have small holes for the pliars, the aftermarket ones have larger holes and are much easier to hold and you don't break the tips on your retaining ring pliars. I throw the original ones away and get new ones, saves me a lot of time and frustration.

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(Message edited by RChristensen on May 01, 2005)
 
Made a run to Dan's this weekend. Had a good time as always. We had plenty of weight to hold us down in the 30MPH winds!!
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Need to replace the PO's solid bushing to ISO mounts under my engine. I seen from a previous post that I can get a sway bar bushing kit from NAPA with what I remember as part# k5252 that will work but I need to make sure that I get the black ones. When I install these am I just using the rubber piece or am I also using a washer or two that come with the kit? Also what was the manufacture of that part?

Thanks!

Jim
 
Jim
As far as I'm concerned after running the Moog k5252 rubbers you might just as well stay with the solid mounts. I tried the Moog rubbers, didn't like them, removed them and now only use them on the top with good original Cub Cadet ISO rubbers underneath.
 
Good Morning...Thanks for all the advice on the stuck clutch. I have manuals ordered and on the way. Thanks to all who contacted me via email also. I enjoy this sight and appreciate all the work and time that goes into managing it.

Jeff Hines
 
Rick M said,
"If so, how is it holding up?"

Depending on the tractor, they are held up by Manual or Hydraulic lifts. I would have thought you would know that by now!
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Sorry,
This NGFS we got last night has me goofier than normal. We got almost a 1/2" of that white crap! sigh!!!!!!
 
LOL! I should've thought about that joke coming ahead of time.
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At least it wasn't a Viagra joke...
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Rick,
We really don't wanna get into your personal problems on the open forum do we?
But feel free to articulate anything you heart desires, but you might want to take it to the sandbox.
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Hey guys, how does the trunion connect to the hydrostat? Is there a way I can take it off without pulling the hydrostat? I don't have a welder on site to weld the trunion in place. Can you rent a welder? I've never done it before, but I've seen it done, how hard can it be?

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

Chuck
 
Chuck F.
The hydro must be dissassembled to remove the trunion braket as a pin inside holds it in place. Your trunion bracket doesn't look too bad but the knotches on the ends cause problems as they hold the pins on the end of the springs and then they will snap loose, causing erratic hydro operation.

Repairing yours would be easy with a mig welder. You remove the two bolts on the front of the hydro that hold the cam bracket, lift it up and forward.

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Then remove the retaining ring holding the side plate and remove side plate.

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The side bracket is made of steel and normally not worn so hold it up over the trunion bracket and you can see the wear on the trunion bracket.

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Then repair the trunion bracket. I used to add additional metal to the sides of the bracket but now I believe that is over kill, just weld the worn area with a mig, (be careful not to hurt the shaft below) then file the area back to match the side bracket opening. A little welding, a little filing and good as new. Then reassemble with new end pins and springs and follow the adjustment in the manual for the neutral cam bracket adjustment and adjust the brakes.

The trunion bracket is made of pretty light material so you need to be careful you don't destroy it. If you haven't welded before it might be worth taking it to a welder who knows what he is doing. If you ruin the trunion bracket you will need to do a complete hydro rebuild.
 
Charlie,
I did nothing to the carb. The motor runs great, starts very easy, just doesn't have the throttle control I'd like. Looking at the CUB CADET manual I have I think I need to rotate the cable arm counter clockwise. I think I'll need to grind a wrench thin to do it.

Bryan McMeen,
Like I said above I've GOT a Cub Cadet manual, I've read the FAQs... I spent much quality time with the manual yesterday and I THINK I pretty much understand how the PTO works, based on which I think I'll just buy a rebuilt. I've got more money than time right now.
 
I can't get any of the pages at cubfaq.com to work, the main page comes up but I can go to any of the FAQs. Is there something I need to do to make it work?
 
I am at a bit of a loss and looking for some assistance.
Have a CC122 12 hp w front PTO being used for the mower.
Runs very well, however, the problem is a knocking/hammering sound especially under load (w front PTO engaged and blades turning). Occasionally the sound is heard a low idle with PTO disengaged.
Never heard when at mid-range RPM and PTO disengaged.
Removed PTO and adjusted it, tightened it, etc. No luck.

Any suggestions.

Thank you very much.
 
Peter-
The starter/generator pulley that contains the drive cup for the PTO sometimes can loosen up on the keyway it is mounted on and can make a knock-type sound. I've had it happen before.
 

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