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Archive through March 27, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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ok... now for those that dont have a press

stack several nuts on one side then use a vise like a press to slowly push the pin thru
 
Jeff!
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great idea, this is the highlighted tip of the day! I'll try in the morning, danWI
 
Dan B - Jeff has a good suggestion but not sure if you could really do that. You'll have to support the drive shaft from underneath and the drivehub itself. You might find a jack stand with a V support will work, and then you need a BFH but also have to avoid any other parts that could be in the way. It's not easy, and hopefully you'll get that pin to move.

(under edit) just realized you must already have the driveshaft removed from the tractor and are working on it on a bench. Jeff's initial suggestion is best, and 2nd suggestion or similar arrangement should work (and a little heat may help as well).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but can be skinned with various methods)
 
Can I spray the cub cadet paint straight out of the quart ? I can't remember if i thinned it last time or what I may have used to thin it. I used it ten years ago on a 127 restore and it held up great ! now need to restore my original.
 
Dan,

Are you talking about the drive pin on the front of the driveshaft of a hydro, where it meets the engine?

If so, try driving it the other direction, they are tapered and/or groved pins. Driving them all the way through can be tough!
 
Steve are you using aftermarket drive pins?

all the ones I have used and pulled out where not tapered or groved,,,,all just a real tight fit
 
Ken, You will need to reduce your paint if you are spraying it thru a spray gun..Acrylic Enamel is usually reduced 33%,,two parts paint to one part reducer..You will need a gallon of a good quality Mid-Temp Acrylic Enamel Reducer from an auto body supply store..I recommend DuPont...
 
Guys to remove the pin in the drive cup , I just measured from the drive shaft to the floor and cut of a piece of hard wood from my winter wood supply.
I then driller a hole in the end of said round hard wood, Next was the multi angle swing press Or BFH ,Put the wood under the drive shaft to support it and align the pin with the drilled hole and well the rest was history.

Today I will take the pulley off the 125 to get welded. I thank Denny for that great $$$ saving tip. But I have another issue that perhaps some one has repaired
1a_scratchhead.gif
. I have weak threads where the coil mounts on the blower housing.I wonder if I can put a nut inside the blower to repair the damaged threads or some other repair. I`am open to ideas this snowy morning.
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Well this is what is left from winter here in Ridott,IL

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and no thats not my new cord winder

237130.jpg


and one of my mess's I need to clean

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how many cubs do you see in there?
 
Jeff- AWESOME photo comment! Same here futher north... tho I'm still waiting for a surprise April blizzard
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Don T - yup, while you're getting your basket pulley welded you just as well have a nut welded on the inside of the shroud. I haven't done it but don't see while you couldn't do it. If there ain't enough clearance from the flywheel I guess you'll hear a little scraping sound. I actually think it should be ok - and since you're gonna have to repaint the pulley, you just as well do the shroud.

Dan B - so it sounds like you're driveshaft is still in the tractor. I couldn't figure it out from your posts. I still think you can try a jackstand if it has the V-shaped top and you can get it to fit snug up against the drive cup. And another thing to help you feel better - more guys have trouble making the pin stay in rather than trying to get it out.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (pins and pones can break their tones but Don T never worries)
 
Hydro Harry- driveshaft is still installed in tractor. I'm replacing both the Drive and Pin. I do have a set of jack stands so will give this a try too.

so okay now.... i had not thought of the reverse problem. HOW does one keep the pin from falling OUT? danWI
 
Dan,

Do you have a new (Cub Cadet part) pin? If so, is it ever so slightly tapered or grooved along one side? My statement below was based on my memory from repairing the exact same probelm on my 149 9-10 years ago, and I could have sworn the new Cub Cadet pin I installed had a groove in it to help keep it in place......but who knows about my memory....or what parts have been substituted as OEM replacements over time.

If the new pin won't stay in place or seems loose, the easiest fix is to wrap a stainless steel hose clamp around the coupler hub (over the ends of the pin) and tighten it down good and tight. This keeps the pin from going AWOL. Same trick can be used on roll pins with safety wire (thread the wire through the center and then tie it around the shaft).
 
Pin removal tool. Air chisel with a correct rounded sized bit. One PHHHHFFFFT and it's done.
 
Dan B - I'm glad you have the jack stands. I didn't want to see you drive all the way to Nova Scotia to get a piece of wood from Dan T's pile
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Basically you need to support it somehow so your hammering blows are transmitted to the pin and not to the drive shaft and cup. If you have a piece of wood with a hole (or drill one) it may actually work and/or fit better than the jackstand (credit given to Don T). I'm hopeful you have the clearance to swing your BFH. I assume your gas tank is removed and out of the way so you can get a straight downward swing shot. If your pin is stuck as much as you're describing you're gonna need your best conditions and efforts. I suspect once you get it out and complete what ever you're doing, and re-install the pin, you won't end up having to worry about it falling out. I'm fairly certain it will still be a pretty snug fit when re-using it.

Tom H - please post a pic of your Pin Removal Tool. Is it one of KenTUCKs?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but their pins do get stuck)
 
Hydro, you mean one of these?

237138.jpg


If so, they are for the Spirol pin on the Hydro end of the drive shaft, not the dowel pin on the engine end.

237139.jpg


237140.jpg
 
Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - yes that's it!!!! If you done using yours would you mind sending it to me. When I tried to get one they were out of stock, and I think the next time, NLA, NLP, or something like that, so I never was able to get one. Can you post another pic that shows the tip of the bolt??? Also, why is it only for spirol pins?? And did KenTUCK ever make a Pin Installing Tool??? (By the way, I hope you're keeping all those original IH double roll pins - they are certainly hard to find these days. When I restored my 169 I had a heck of a time finding the original ones still in IH packages so I could do my restoration correctly).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and need their pins poked once in a while)
 

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