-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through March 20, 2013
- Thread starter proessler
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Terry Davis
I can post pictures of my 61 Original engine in the am for you. It has the pulley on the front for the mower deck and the drive pulley for the belt that runs through the frame slot to the drive shaft. Must have been a po mod if you have chain running to the drive shaft.
I can post pictures of my 61 Original engine in the am for you. It has the pulley on the front for the mower deck and the drive pulley for the belt that runs through the frame slot to the drive shaft. Must have been a po mod if you have chain running to the drive shaft.
glippert
Well-known member
On Monday I came home at lunchtime to clean up the snow left at the end on my driveway by the city snowplows. On my last push, just before I turned it off, the belt on the QA42A went. Today, Wednesday, I came home for lunch and my two new belts were waiting for me. I do a lot of buying online, but CC Specialties is by far the fastest, most reliable shipping I've found. And a trustworthy company besides! Thanks, Charlie!
Donald, thanks for the pic and will watch for the engine stuff. I took the clutch all apart and when all the gunk was cleaned off I think I have everything except the pulley. One question - is the needle bearing sandwiched between the two thin thrust washers? I'm really anxious to get this little dude rolling again. Interestingly, PO thought engine was "locked up" but turns out all it was was a bad bearing in the s/g that kept it from turning over. Btw Donald - how about taking a pic of a creeper, then send the creeper to me!
TOM H. - Yes, 982's had the B48G Onan when new. But with Onan changing hands so many times over the last 10-15 yrs they're REALLY hard to get parts for and they cost a fortune. The machine shop I use up in FondDuLac, WI. that Dave Kirk recommends & uses told me they try to discourage anyone from working on or rebuilding them just because of the availability & cost of parts. They have old Packard V-12 engines, Buick straight 8's, etc sitting around, have even done radial airplane engines. When I was working on my K321 they had a 426 Street HEMI on a stand in their showroom, and later had a 409 4bbl Chevy sitting next to it, so they're comfortable with rare old engines. The owner does pride himself in machining & building up a KILLER IH C60 engine for CUB Farmall's & LoBoy's. But doesn't really want to work on an Onan. Kinda makes me think about WHAT will find it's way into my 982 more and more all the time. An air-cooled 2-cyl. Duetz sounds better all the time!
Terry -
Yes, IH 368372-R91 Original Clutch Release Thrust Bearing ; Charlie has them for 6.50$ http://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html
In parts look up above click on garden tractor in the drop down list and then down at the bottom of the list of tractors you will see Cub cadet . that is were you will see a complete part list for your Original. I don`t have a creeper for my Original ; If you want one I see Charlie has a Danco UD-6 Original Under Drive Creeper Drive W/ Drive Pin PN/ IH-475622-R1 that he will sell you for $435.00 . some day I will get one but right now it is not on my list of must haves.
Can someone post some info on the pulleys for a tiller.I understand that the long belt will tear the pulleys apart if you use the pulleys for the mower belt to run the long belt for the tiller.Can someone enlighten me on what I should get that will last.
Thanks again guys
Yes, IH 368372-R91 Original Clutch Release Thrust Bearing ; Charlie has them for 6.50$ http://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html
In parts look up above click on garden tractor in the drop down list and then down at the bottom of the list of tractors you will see Cub cadet . that is were you will see a complete part list for your Original. I don`t have a creeper for my Original ; If you want one I see Charlie has a Danco UD-6 Original Under Drive Creeper Drive W/ Drive Pin PN/ IH-475622-R1 that he will sell you for $435.00 . some day I will get one but right now it is not on my list of must haves.
Can someone post some info on the pulleys for a tiller.I understand that the long belt will tear the pulleys apart if you use the pulleys for the mower belt to run the long belt for the tiller.Can someone enlighten me on what I should get that will last.
Thanks again guys
kostendorf
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 617
- displayname
- Keith Ostendorf
I changed the ISO mounts and used 1 1/4" bolts with lock nuts tightened to 2 threads showing. I put about 2 hours on the tractor and checked the ISO bolts and they are finger tight now. I can turn the bolts my fingers. Should I leave them alone or tighten some more. I did notice the vibration gradually got better during the 2 hours I used it. The ISO mounts I used are in the pic.
Donald - thanks and been making a list for Charlie for some time now. And, a creeper is definitely not in my puny budget right now. Guy contacted me this AM about buying all of his Cub stuff as he's gone green it seems. Think he's got 10 or so units so may have to spend what little money I have on tarps to cover everything if it happens.
Question: I removed a k161 from a 63 Original and just curious if that would be a correct engine for a model 71? It has the dipstick rather than the plug down by the oil pan and guess I could remove the oil bath air cleaner and replace with the newer style. It's a good complete engine and would like to use it if possible. Thanks
Keith,
I have wrestled with this question a lot. Were this me, I would tighten them another one to one and a half turns. I think a loose mount gives the engine and cradle a chance to rattle around a within its mountings. It seems to me that keeping the ISO mounts tight, yet not so tight that it inhibits the ability of the rubber mounts to absorb shock, it will keep vibration to a minimum. Be sure that when you tighten the mounting bolts that the bolts do not get close enough to the engine to pierce the engine cowlings or casting. It is possible that one and a half turns could be too much.
I had a terrible vibration problem last summer with my 1250 Nightmare. When I got to looking, I found the ISO mount bolts loose in the frame as well. After tightening them, and running the machine, and tightening them, and running the machine, then loosening them and running the machine, I found a sweet spot of the least amount of vibration. I added a couple of pieces of felt where the hood meets the lower grill casting, just next to the hinge, and I can finally trust that the fillings in my teeth will not come out.
This isn't scientific, but it worked for me. It took a lot of trial and error, but was worth every bit of it. If I can help any further, please let me know.
I have wrestled with this question a lot. Were this me, I would tighten them another one to one and a half turns. I think a loose mount gives the engine and cradle a chance to rattle around a within its mountings. It seems to me that keeping the ISO mounts tight, yet not so tight that it inhibits the ability of the rubber mounts to absorb shock, it will keep vibration to a minimum. Be sure that when you tighten the mounting bolts that the bolts do not get close enough to the engine to pierce the engine cowlings or casting. It is possible that one and a half turns could be too much.
I had a terrible vibration problem last summer with my 1250 Nightmare. When I got to looking, I found the ISO mount bolts loose in the frame as well. After tightening them, and running the machine, and tightening them, and running the machine, then loosening them and running the machine, I found a sweet spot of the least amount of vibration. I added a couple of pieces of felt where the hood meets the lower grill casting, just next to the hinge, and I can finally trust that the fillings in my teeth will not come out.
This isn't scientific, but it worked for me. It took a lot of trial and error, but was worth every bit of it. If I can help any further, please let me know.
Don T.
Just so you'll know, that's not the correct mower drive pulley.
This is the right/correct one.
Just so you'll know, that's not the correct mower drive pulley.
This is the right/correct one.
Charlie- I do have the one here you posted.I needed a deck for my 62 O and bought one on evil pay and it does look like the one you posted. I guess I will have to take that off so my 61 O will be at least a 96 point Original when I get it painted.
Did you get any mail from me ?
Did you get any mail from me ?
Anyone ever use the guy on E-bay that advertizes rebuilt hydro valves for sale? I think he rebuilds yours and returns them.
Dave S
Dave S
Don T. & Charlie: thanks much for the pulley pics. Looks like between two engines I have two good s/g pulleys, one good belt to clutch pulley and one correct mower belt pulley. Enough to complete the 61 engine and gonna need the other two for the 63 engine. Charlie - are the clutch pressure plates supposed to be roughed up like the ones you posted a pic of the other day of the pto plates? Thanks guys for all your help. Just maybe some day I'll actually be able to share info here rather than simply ask questions. Last, guy here has several of those Hub City reversers or whatever they're called he's getting rid of and curious if they a practical addition to these Cubs or just bling for shows?
TERRY - Just tell me where those Hub City reversers are and I dispose of them properly for you.... No sense in you wasting any time with them... I'll come and pick them up even. Better hurry posting the info... I'm fueling my truck up in ten minutes to come get them.
Judging from the responses it sounds like if nothing else they'll good trading stock for stuff I need. I've looked at them but don't really know much about em. Same guy tried to hook me up with one of those Unicorn log splitters - NO way am I touching that medieval lookin contraption.
