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Archive through March 18, 2009

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Douglas, seeing that the steering wheel is not reusable, I would make a cut into the hub being careful not to cut into the threads on the steering column shaft. Then pry on the slot that you cut to try to open up the hub. From your profile it appears that you may have either a 70 or a 72 and are not sure. Which of these look most like yours?

126860.jpg

Above is a model 70.

126861.jpg

Above is a model 71.

126862.jpg

Above is a model 72.
 
Kraig,
I have used a right angle grinder with a cut off wheel (very carefully)to cut into the hub. Got as close to the threaded shaft without cut it (ran a die over the shaft when done to clean up any nicks). I have even cut the steering shaft off just below the steering wheel hub with a sawzall (had an extra steering assembly out of a like model scrapped cub). I normally use an air chisel to loosen mine. Spray with penetrating fluid a day or so ahead of time. I place a flat washer over the end of a pointed chisel, loosen the nut half way up the shaft, and with a foot on foot pad and a knee under the steering wheel applying presure, I hit the trigger on the air chisel for a few second and rotate the wheel a 1/2 turn, do it again each time until it comes off (I know its to late for that with yours but just sharing whats worked for me). Good luck.
 
Mike, thanks for the info, however, I believe you meant to address your post to Douglas.
1a_scratchhead.gif


I've never had any success with the air hammer method but I have had good success with the BIG hammer method. For my Original I ended up cutting the shaft off just below the steering wheel. My good friend Art Aytay actually suggested I do that, as the upper part of the shaft was messed up anyway. I was able to then drive out the cut off piece from the steering wheel hub to save the steering wheel. I then used a replacement steering column.
 
hey good morning guys getting ready to rewire the "O" any suggestions on what size wire should be used?haven't seen any mention of wire size on any of the wiring diagrams that i've found. thanks in advance
 
Robert Frank, I have a 129 with a #1A tiller. I got an A144 belt from Grainger. Fit good. Cost about $35. It's 1/2" x 146" outside length. The short belt I use a 1/2" x 55". Got that at TSC for $12. Hope that helps.
 
LUCAS - By the time You buy all the correct size & color wire, terminal ends, etc. I think one of the sponsors of this site should be able to fix You up with a OEM or better than OEM reproduction harness. They fit better & neater. I got a new harness last summer for My 70. It really wasn't that expensive. Plus I won;t have to worry about My tractor burning up in an electrical fire.
 
She came out clean with a 5/16x24. I had to hold down the top button while I did this.
I really wouldn't want to mess with taking out a good button. Thanks again.

126864.jpg
 
Lucas,

I used 14ga for most of the harness in my CCO. I think all but the positive from the starter button to the S/G. I think that was 8ga, not sure now. I had a lot of the wiring on hand, but what I didn't have Ace hardware here sells various wiring by the foot. I bought just what I needed for the harness. I also had most terminals too. I think I have maybe $10 in out of pocket. Plus I like doing it myself. May not be better than a store bought harness though. All terminals were crimped, soldered and shrink wrapped. For the loom I found some black cross stitch fabric at a sewing store that I sewed into a tube and turned inside out. It's really tough woven fabric. As close to original loom as I could get without getting NOS loom material.
 
The lever that lifts the mower deck on my 129 keeps falling down. if pretty loose form side to side. I look under it and the rod that holds it in place on the different height grooves is barely hanging on when i start the tractor it just vibrates over and falls down every time. What do I do?
 
Adam, sounds like the coil spring inside the lift handle may be broken or weak. It's item # 7 in the parts drawing below. Does it seem like it springs back OK??? It could also be that the rod got bent at some point or the ratchet is worn, hard to say for sure without having a look at it. The top button, item # 9 in the drawing, should unscrew from the rod might be a good idea to try to get some penetrating oil in there before you try to unscrew the top button, if that button breaks it's a pain to get it out. BTDT

126870.jpg
 
Kraig!, Art!, Nick!
Sometimes IT DOES take 2 or 3 years to wire an Original. I'm finally putting the rebuilt engine in my Original and all the notes re the govenor will come in handy. Time to go home. . .
--R
 
DOUGLAS- i broke my steering shaft trying to get it off my 72. i'd rather have cut the hub and loose the s.wheel itself. the center of the s.wheel is about .550" thick.....with what tools i got, i would use my hand grinder and cut 2 lines down the sides and use my cutting tool of my dremel tool to finish the cuts. should work fine if ya take the time. the puller i had was destroying the s.wheel. use anti-seise on the new one!
 
Hey Kraig...that IH photo of the dash of the 71, isn't a 71....unless I am really cross-eyed.

It looks like it is a 72. 71 had the same skinny top tower as a 70.
 
Art, the next paragraph in the kohler manual says to remove the drive pin if you have a throttle cable hooked up to the engine. I tried to post the picture of that page but it came up way too big to post. Either way, it ended up that the throttle bracket placement ended up exactly where the drive pin was and I got it all adjusted pretty good. Just my 2 cents.

Lucas, I rewired my "O" with a wire harness that my wife got me from the e-auction site we don't like to refer to but either way, get a new pre-made one from someone...they come with tags by each terminal that tell you where they go...can't beat them and they're not too expensive. Plus they have the original wire loom on them that is a pain in the rear to make your own. Nick
 
the picture of the "71" is a 102....i have one in the yard! the 72 looks correct, although mine has a regular key switch and location. i also have a good example of the 71. but i could be wrong and it wont be the last time!lol!the 70 looks correct.
 
Need some info on a carb repair kit. Does someone make a bushing kit to repair the worn aluminum carb housing where the main throttle shaft goes on a 124 Cub Cadet??? Any and all info would be appreciated.
 
Douglas S., I feel your pain brother. I have been steering my 100 with whats left of the steering wheel hub and a pair of vise grips for two weeks. Trying to scrape up enough $ for a replacement.

Tim Keefe
 
Kevin P. I got a mod kit from Madsons (one of the sponsors) this winter. It includes a new shaft and throttle plate screws,along with the mod bushing and carb bowl gaskets. The instructions are easy to follow and don't require any machining, drilling or welding or special tools. Other sponsors probably have the kits,too. See the FAQS for an alternative way to fix it.
 

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