Don T., I feel your pain. BTDT.
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Archive through March 11, 2013
- Thread starter jboelens
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
BILL - You DIDN'T hear it from me, but if you've got one good transmission clutch friction disk you can set it over the worn one and drill three new holes in the worn one that are round. A sharp twist drill bit on a drill press works great. The oblong holes really don't hurt anything, except they'll wear more & more out of round and increase backlash in the whole drive train. And it's entirely possible to have the holes too small in the frictio disk, which will cause the clutch to drag when the friction disk can't move away from either of the pressure plates.
The holes do wear out-of-round, but the friction material lasts for decades. I actually find used clutch friction disks work better in a working tractor, they have a harder flatter less "FUZZY" surface and make feathering the clutch in close quarters MUCH easier. Plus less drag when shifting gears too.
Ohhh.. and any time you have the clutch pressure plates off to work on the friction disk, put a new teaser spring in. When a teaser spring breaks the 4-1/2" dry disk clutch in a CC is almost as hard to engage smoothly as a v-belt drive tractor, basically becomes an On-Off switch.
The holes do wear out-of-round, but the friction material lasts for decades. I actually find used clutch friction disks work better in a working tractor, they have a harder flatter less "FUZZY" surface and make feathering the clutch in close quarters MUCH easier. Plus less drag when shifting gears too.
Ohhh.. and any time you have the clutch pressure plates off to work on the friction disk, put a new teaser spring in. When a teaser spring breaks the 4-1/2" dry disk clutch in a CC is almost as hard to engage smoothly as a v-belt drive tractor, basically becomes an On-Off switch.
Thanks Jim! This will be a refurbished 'Basket case" for plowing. I got it as a parts tractor and when rec'd it had a brand new elect clutch hiding under the muffler box!!
So it don't owe me a thing!! Least I can do is get the ol' gal back up on her feet and moving again!!
Dave S.
So it don't owe me a thing!! Least I can do is get the ol' gal back up on her feet and moving again!!
Dave S.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Paul B - thanks for confirming pretty much what I thought. I don't know why but on the Q/L's engines I've pulled they almost always have that 7/8" front bolts with just the lock/split washer, and 1" rear bolts with flat washer and lock/split washer. I have done as you say, and measured the threaded depth of the pan, added the frame thickness and came out to about 1 and 1/4", and used that length with the washers on the rear, but don't think I was able to get that length thru on the front because of the limited space when the axle is still installed (but could also be because my 2 BIG fingers hardly fit in that channel). Thanks again.
Don T - geez, that's a nice looking paint job. I'm gonnna bet that PTO clutch will last you a good 20 years.
Also, I saw you're "Note To Self" on installing the rod for the PTO engagement, and I also read your note to Kraig where you stated
"I just losened up the SG and slide the belt off and the SG fell against the frame". May I suggest you make an addition to your Note To Self" to "NEVER allow S/G to fall against frame!"
It is usually not an issue with a N/F but is nearly ALWAYS with a W/F. The left end cap on the S/G will hit the frame and snap off (BTDT) especially on the W/F where, on the left the frame is taller. It happens with both the aluminum end caps and the cast iron. So allowing the S/G to fall freely against the frame is just not a good idea, and you were a little lucky in my view (better chalk that one up in your favor, since you had so many against you on the carb). Good luck now with your 125.
Don T - geez, that's a nice looking paint job. I'm gonnna bet that PTO clutch will last you a good 20 years.
Also, I saw you're "Note To Self" on installing the rod for the PTO engagement, and I also read your note to Kraig where you stated
"I just losened up the SG and slide the belt off and the SG fell against the frame". May I suggest you make an addition to your Note To Self" to "NEVER allow S/G to fall against frame!"
It is usually not an issue with a N/F but is nearly ALWAYS with a W/F. The left end cap on the S/G will hit the frame and snap off (BTDT) especially on the W/F where, on the left the frame is taller. It happens with both the aluminum end caps and the cast iron. So allowing the S/G to fall freely against the frame is just not a good idea, and you were a little lucky in my view (better chalk that one up in your favor, since you had so many against you on the carb). Good luck now with your 125.
Harry B.
As far as the QL is concerned,
The parts look up is my source.
As far as the QL is concerned,
The parts look up is my source.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Charlie - yes I have the same pic in my parts book but the bolt listed there is for mounting the ISO-mounts onto the ISO-bars. As Paul B noted, the bolts to attach the engine to the frame is not listed in any of the parts sections, not under the engine and not under the frame.
Yep!
"mounting the ISO-mounts onto the ISO-bars." to the engine. Unless you know something I don't.
"mounting the ISO-mounts onto the ISO-bars." to the engine. Unless you know something I don't.
Marty G.
Cut that pin off flush with the coupler and drive it out. That way you have to expansion of the pin causing it to wedge tight going into the hole of the coupler.
Cut that pin off flush with the coupler and drive it out. That way you have to expansion of the pin causing it to wedge tight going into the hole of the coupler.
Norm,
If you have a working top "Lift Rod" AKA the top link, measure the width of the 90 deg. gear box and add it to the dimention of the standard top link.
KEEP IN MIND that with the top link being longer you will have more travela dn less leverage to raise and lower rear implements
If you have a working top "Lift Rod" AKA the top link, measure the width of the 90 deg. gear box and add it to the dimention of the standard top link.
KEEP IN MIND that with the top link being longer you will have more travela dn less leverage to raise and lower rear implements
lpalma
Well-known member
Harry...
Here is a page out of the TC157
Here is what I picked up today.I know charlie has a bunch of these.
I have one for my 107 with matching serial #s
This as a cool find.
Printing mattes.These are blanks,typesetters would add the appropriate copy.
Shoot em' strip em'up,off to the presses.
Here is a page out of the TC157
Here is what I picked up today.I know charlie has a bunch of these.
I have one for my 107 with matching serial #s
This as a cool find.
Printing mattes.These are blanks,typesetters would add the appropriate copy.
Shoot em' strip em'up,off to the presses.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Marty Grier: I agree with Charlie's advice, and a little penetrating oil helps too. I could not get my first one to move until I purchased a set of roll pin punches that have a little dimple on the end to help start the roll pin "un-raveling." Using these tools, I've never had an issue removing roll pins.
Edit: There is a thread in the Machine Shop on the topic "Roll Pin Punches."
Edit: There is a thread in the Machine Shop on the topic "Roll Pin Punches."
Lew
I just found that information about the engine assembly in the copy of the TC-157 that I have, but it is on the page before the engine parts breakdown and is only the 4 lines under the Service Engine heading that are shown in your post. I had overlooked that before on all the models in the TC-157
I just found that information about the engine assembly in the copy of the TC-157 that I have, but it is on the page before the engine parts breakdown and is only the 4 lines under the Service Engine heading that are shown in your post. I had overlooked that before on all the models in the TC-157
Anyone have a good closeup picture of the right side of the tower where the clutch arm pivots please?
Need to figure out if what I have is correct or not, a rusty old thumbscrew, washer and spring.
Thanks!
Need to figure out if what I have is correct or not, a rusty old thumbscrew, washer and spring.
Thanks!
Crap!!....Need the picture for a 73
Sorry bout that, been a long day!!
Sorry bout that, been a long day!!
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- Home of the Plow Special
David-
Here's one I used to own about 8 years ago.
If you think it's ugly in this picture, you should see what the guy who bought it from me did to it. LOL!
Here's one I used to own about 8 years ago.
If you think it's ugly in this picture, you should see what the guy who bought it from me did to it. LOL!
