Just wanted to say that I was fortunate enough to Meet up with FOUR forum members on here Saturday. We dropped off the Cub Cadet 582 and met Steve Blunier Jr, and Steve Blunier Sr. Had a nice breakfast before continuing East to Indy where we picked up the IH Cub Cadet 72 from Joe Abram in bloomington, In. Then on the way back to Indy, and stopped off at HOOTERS and had a nice afternoon lunch with Terry Davis. then we went to his house and got to see all of his projects, and brought hiome a IH snowblade for a NF. Was a great trip, until the last 40 miles when my Transmission in my 3/4t GMC decided it didn't want to go anymore. Got home about 1:30 Sunday morning. Was great to meet all of the members, hopefully more to come. The 72 fits well in with the rest of my Roundy Fenders!
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Archive through March 11, 2013
- Thread starter jboelens
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Frank, You will probably have to move one or the other pulleys either right or left would be my solution. Should be a simple matter of losening the set screw and sliding whichever direction you need.
Dave S.
Dave S.
Couple questions re: 122. Would anyone happen to have a pic showing the correct placement for a grote light and two, curious what the hole is for on the left side of the rear panel that mounts between the fenders. Thanks
OK Guys, I have a 1000 here that I hope to put back into service. Problem is the drive plate has the center busted out of it. Geesh....no wonder it made a bunch of noise and quit moving when the PO parked it!! HaHa
Do you guys see any problem with using this driver in a QL?
I know it's the solid type and not the the flex unit as used originally.
Will it be possible to press the center out of the solid driver and press in the flex plate driver and bushing or am I really barking up a greased tree stump here. I think there is enough meat there to tac the plate to the bushing housing if it don't fit tight.
Under edit...2nd thought...How about if I machine the housing out enough to accept the original bushing??
What say you all
Thanks in advance!
Dave S.
Do you guys see any problem with using this driver in a QL?
I know it's the solid type and not the the flex unit as used originally.
Will it be possible to press the center out of the solid driver and press in the flex plate driver and bushing or am I really barking up a greased tree stump here. I think there is enough meat there to tac the plate to the bushing housing if it don't fit tight.
Under edit...2nd thought...How about if I machine the housing out enough to accept the original bushing??
What say you all
Thanks in advance!
Dave S.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
David,
I've heard of others doing that swap, but can't say as to how it worked out. If you go that route I'd make sure I had good ISO-mounts in it, so as not to allow a lot of unnecessary moving around.....
I've heard of others doing that swap, but can't say as to how it worked out. If you go that route I'd make sure I had good ISO-mounts in it, so as not to allow a lot of unnecessary moving around.....
Terry,
There were two versions of that rear panel. One was for the Grote type light. The hole should have a gromet on it not to wear out the wire that feeds the light and then there is the newer version that has two mountimg holes with nuts welded to the back of the panel and on hole to feed power to the light
There were two versions of that rear panel. One was for the Grote type light. The hole should have a gromet on it not to wear out the wire that feeds the light and then there is the newer version that has two mountimg holes with nuts welded to the back of the panel and on hole to feed power to the light
Here ya go Art,
I thought it odd that they had the double spring directions for the single spring setup, LOL
I thought it odd that they had the double spring directions for the single spring setup, LOL
- Joined
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- Binder 1650
Lewis & Charlie - thanks for the oil pan bolt length info. I looked in the parts look-up before I posted earlier, but for whatever reason didn't see the bolts shown.
I also found the bag of bolts from the 126, from when I took the engine out of it and they were all 1 inch with lock washers.
I also found the bag of bolts from the 126, from when I took the engine out of it and they were all 1 inch with lock washers.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Bill J and Charlie - Hold Your Horses!!! - I think those bolt lengths Charlie provided for the W/F are the oil pan to block, and for the Q/L that 2 and 1/4 length is for the ISO-mounts. I think 1" is about right for both tho, and I've always used a washer and lock washer on the rear ones, but just a lock washer on the front ones. AND usually the front bolts are just slightly shorter like 7/8" or 3/4". I don't know where you can find this listed in the parts info (bolts to mount the engine to the frame or engine to the ISO-bars in the case of the Q/L. I think we all need some more info.
Hey Tom - thanks for the info on the grote light. Mine just has the hole for the wires. Does the light actually mount to that panel (it's angled) or does it attach to the left fender with the wires fed through the hole on that rear panel? Guess either way is gong to require drilling.
Terry, on a 122 with the Grote tail lamp I believe the lamp mounts to the fender but the wire routes through the hole in the filler plate. Note the two holes in the left fender in the second photo down.
Here is a photo of Dan Hoefler's 122. and a closeup. Note in the closeup that the light bracket mounts to the fender.
Here is a photo of Dan Hoefler's 122. and a closeup. Note in the closeup that the light bracket mounts to the fender.
Harry and others,
Like you said, the bolts to mount engine to frame or engine to mount rails for the QL's, are not listed in the parts manuals for any of the narrow frame or wide frame models that I can find. The bolts for the oil pan to block are listed under the oil pan, and the QL ISO mount bolts are listed under the mount rails, but no engine to frame/rail bolts even in the frame break down listing. However it has been my experience that all 4 bolts are the same length and though I never measured them they are 3/8-16 about 1" or 1-1/4" long. You can measure the depth of the hole in the pan to get an idea of the bolt length to use.
Like you said, the bolts to mount engine to frame or engine to mount rails for the QL's, are not listed in the parts manuals for any of the narrow frame or wide frame models that I can find. The bolts for the oil pan to block are listed under the oil pan, and the QL ISO mount bolts are listed under the mount rails, but no engine to frame/rail bolts even in the frame break down listing. However it has been my experience that all 4 bolts are the same length and though I never measured them they are 3/8-16 about 1" or 1-1/4" long. You can measure the depth of the hole in the pan to get an idea of the bolt length to use.
jdiederichs
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- Jim Diederichs
David,
The flexible drive disk was a real weak link in the QuietLines, I replaced mine in several with the stronger solid driver as you show in your pictures.
Have had zero problems since, and noticed much less "wallowing out" of the fiber disk's 3 holes as well. Go for it!
Steve is very correct, make sure the iso mounts are decent for best alignment.
Otherwise, no you won't need the self aligning bushing installed, the sintered brass straight bushing will work fine. It won't be 100% pure anymore but it does work fine!
Just be sure to pre-fit the shaft to the bushing, if too snug it will cause hard shifting due to drag
The flexible drive disk was a real weak link in the QuietLines, I replaced mine in several with the stronger solid driver as you show in your pictures.
Have had zero problems since, and noticed much less "wallowing out" of the fiber disk's 3 holes as well. Go for it!
Steve is very correct, make sure the iso mounts are decent for best alignment.
Otherwise, no you won't need the self aligning bushing installed, the sintered brass straight bushing will work fine. It won't be 100% pure anymore but it does work fine!
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- Binder 1650
I went back and found the frame to oil pan bolts that came out of the 126, in a nicely marked bag - which I couldn't find...
The bolts measure 7/8 inch long and have a single lock washer, no flat washer. They are also grade 5 bolts. All of the bolts on the 126's pan were the same length. In as much as the frame thickness doesn't change, this makes sense. I'll double check the allowance for thread length/depth before I reinstall against bottoming out the bolts into the pan too.
I pulled the head on this 122's engine and it looks very good inside. Standard bore/piston and still some cross hatching visible. What I need to replace (or at least I think I should) is the drive plate. The one on this engine is warped like someone used a pry bar on it. I've got a spare, just got to figure out how to get it loose from the engine.
Next up is to flip the engine over, replace the aluminum pan for a cast iron one, remove any balance gears if present and put back together.
I'm debating painting the engine and will likely not do so. What I need to do before I do an 85 point or less restoration is get this tractor running and working to see what I've got.
Also the clutch friction plate holes for the drive plate pins are somewhat ovaled, but no real damage that I can see, so don't know that I'll replace it for now either.
I'm impressed with how easy these 126 and 122 gear drive tractors have been as far as pulling the engine. Very simple and straight forward as compared to my 1650 and another color simple tractor I've got with a Kohler Command in it.
I appreciate everyone's help.
The bolts measure 7/8 inch long and have a single lock washer, no flat washer. They are also grade 5 bolts. All of the bolts on the 126's pan were the same length. In as much as the frame thickness doesn't change, this makes sense. I'll double check the allowance for thread length/depth before I reinstall against bottoming out the bolts into the pan too.
I pulled the head on this 122's engine and it looks very good inside. Standard bore/piston and still some cross hatching visible. What I need to replace (or at least I think I should) is the drive plate. The one on this engine is warped like someone used a pry bar on it. I've got a spare, just got to figure out how to get it loose from the engine.
Next up is to flip the engine over, replace the aluminum pan for a cast iron one, remove any balance gears if present and put back together.
I'm debating painting the engine and will likely not do so. What I need to do before I do an 85 point or less restoration is get this tractor running and working to see what I've got.
Also the clutch friction plate holes for the drive plate pins are somewhat ovaled, but no real damage that I can see, so don't know that I'll replace it for now either.
I'm impressed with how easy these 126 and 122 gear drive tractors have been as far as pulling the engine. Very simple and straight forward as compared to my 1650 and another color simple tractor I've got with a Kohler Command in it.
I appreciate everyone's help.
