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Archive through March 10, 2009
- Thread starter mmorrison
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Scott/Philip-
I have not used the chassis mount kit, but I HAVE used the OEM mounts on a 1650 I used to have. If you disregard the torque instructions and tighten them such that one thread is showing on each mount bolt, they will work just great. I removed the balance gears from this 1650, and it was extremely smooth at full throttle. I was very impressed. It's worth the money IMHO.
I have not used the chassis mount kit, but I HAVE used the OEM mounts on a 1650 I used to have. If you disregard the torque instructions and tighten them such that one thread is showing on each mount bolt, they will work just great. I removed the balance gears from this 1650, and it was extremely smooth at full throttle. I was very impressed. It's worth the money IMHO.
klejeune
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2007
- Messages
- 477
- displayname
- Keith LeJeune
I did the cradle upgrade and installed OEM mounts and torqued as Matt and Richard C. suggests and believe that is the way to go. Swaybar isolators are for taking heavy shock loads, not constant vibration. That's the way I look at it. The OEM should deffinately out last the Moog parts.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Phillip Maybe you should go back and re-read the FAQ. Maybe its just me but it seems clear to me.
I'll say this one more time.
1. You need to do the rail mod, its a must for all quietlines.
2. For the least vibration you would need to get an original NOS set of ISO rubbers like the tractors came with. I'll bet somebody is hording some, but I have never found any.
3. The second best setup for the least vibration would be to see if you can save 4 of the old rubbers if they are still okay. and place them on the frame and use 4 Moog rubbers on the top of the rail like the FAQ shows. (usually when I replace the ISO rubber I can find four good ones as they were the same top and bottom on the original tractors. Not so for the new replacement ISO rubbers they sell.)
4. The third best setup would be to buy 4 new ISO rubbers and mount them, but not tighten the bolts to the specs.
5. The forth best setup would be to use the 4 Moog kit rubbers and live with the vibration.
6. The fifth suggestion is to buy the metal replacement stand offs in place of the rubber ISO mounts like some pullers use, and then buy a small piece of solid rubber to place between your teeth.
They will sell you whatever you want, its up to you to decide what you prefer.
My .02cents
I'll say this one more time.
1. You need to do the rail mod, its a must for all quietlines.
2. For the least vibration you would need to get an original NOS set of ISO rubbers like the tractors came with. I'll bet somebody is hording some, but I have never found any.
3. The second best setup for the least vibration would be to see if you can save 4 of the old rubbers if they are still okay. and place them on the frame and use 4 Moog rubbers on the top of the rail like the FAQ shows. (usually when I replace the ISO rubber I can find four good ones as they were the same top and bottom on the original tractors. Not so for the new replacement ISO rubbers they sell.)
4. The third best setup would be to buy 4 new ISO rubbers and mount them, but not tighten the bolts to the specs.
5. The forth best setup would be to use the 4 Moog kit rubbers and live with the vibration.
6. The fifth suggestion is to buy the metal replacement stand offs in place of the rubber ISO mounts like some pullers use, and then buy a small piece of solid rubber to place between your teeth.
They will sell you whatever you want, its up to you to decide what you prefer.
My .02cents
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
paint question!
i put some parts on my motor that i painted a few months ago and the two that i didn't use primer on (for fear of heat build up)don't scratch at all the flywheel cover i used primer on and it scratches VERY easy i was wondering what the primer had to do with this or if i did something wrong or I'm just dumb! hoping not the latter!
i put some parts on my motor that i painted a few months ago and the two that i didn't use primer on (for fear of heat build up)don't scratch at all the flywheel cover i used primer on and it scratches VERY easy i was wondering what the primer had to do with this or if i did something wrong or I'm just dumb! hoping not the latter!
Alan T,
I recommend draining the hydraulic oil for replacing the internal brake O-ring. You can do that by either by taking the back transmission cover plate off or removing the front siphon tube that goes to the hydro pump. If you haven't changed your hydraulic fluid and filter in a long time, now would be an opportune time.
It's best if you remove your fender pan so you can get access to the top of the transmission. To remove the brake pad puck, you need to remove the rockshaft arm as Richard C described. Getting the shaft out of the rockshaft arm can be difficult if its rusted. I had to remove the transmission and use a press to get mine out of my #2 782 the other year, hopefully yours will be easier to remove.
Next to get the brake piston out, I removed the top cover on the hydro transmission and used a long screwdriver as a lever to push it out. While you have it out you may want to also replace the brake pad pucks as they sometimes start to disintegrate with time. Gaskets and Parts are available from the sponsors above of your nearest Cub Cadet dealer. Some of the parts are even available through your Case IH dealer yet and you can get some fresh HyTran from them as well. Hope this helps.
I recommend draining the hydraulic oil for replacing the internal brake O-ring. You can do that by either by taking the back transmission cover plate off or removing the front siphon tube that goes to the hydro pump. If you haven't changed your hydraulic fluid and filter in a long time, now would be an opportune time.
It's best if you remove your fender pan so you can get access to the top of the transmission. To remove the brake pad puck, you need to remove the rockshaft arm as Richard C described. Getting the shaft out of the rockshaft arm can be difficult if its rusted. I had to remove the transmission and use a press to get mine out of my #2 782 the other year, hopefully yours will be easier to remove.
Next to get the brake piston out, I removed the top cover on the hydro transmission and used a long screwdriver as a lever to push it out. While you have it out you may want to also replace the brake pad pucks as they sometimes start to disintegrate with time. Gaskets and Parts are available from the sponsors above of your nearest Cub Cadet dealer. Some of the parts are even available through your Case IH dealer yet and you can get some fresh HyTran from them as well. Hope this helps.
I hate to do this, but I have broad shoulders and can take a beating...has anyone ever fired their just restored Original (or any cubby gear drive) up for the first time ever and had 1 forward gear and three reverse gears? It seems that someone put the ring gear on the wrong side of the pinion. Oops, that was me. A buddy of mine's favorite saying is..."no use being stupid unless you show it". Well, I guess it was my turn. I've rebuilt big Cat truck engines, 18 speed truck transmissions, rear ends, etc, and a little cub O kicked my butt. Oh well, it fired up after 1 revolution and ran great. Needs some governor adjustment is all. I had the engine 100% apart and the carb totally redone and it still fired right up, can't complain about that. I guess this weekend I"ll rip the rearend apart. Nick
