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Archive through March 10, 2008

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jspence

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Jan 17, 2008
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Jim Spence
Looks like my picture wasn't formatted correctly so I'll try this one.
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Kohler 30 carb. question. Does Kohler make a special tool to remove the seat for the needle valve from the carb. body? It seems to be a 3/8's but everything I have has to much OD to fit between the post for the float pin. Thank you, Don B.
 
You posted it right Jim, just the last post on a page has what is called "the archive bug." The last post won't show the pictures uploaded for some reason.

Is the hydro pulley lined up correctly with the engine pulley? Does the hight stop make the lever push towards the frame for some reason. Looks like it's crooked or loose.
 
Don B; I'm not sure about a special tool but I made one for Don T by grinding a cheap socket down. It works fine but by the time you get it to fit it will be very thin walls. Hope this helps.
 
Keith; The pully alignment looks fine but the ram appears to be crooked. I'll have to check the attachment manual to make 100% sure that it is bolted on correctly. The height stop is not straight so that may be it. Could that possibly have bent something else causing the ram to get misaligned??
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Paul Buck, my Craftsman 1/4" drive 3/8" socket fits in there fine on my carbs. At least the two Carter Model N's I have and the carb on the 1450. Don't remember what carb model it is though.

You may have to buy a real cheap socket set as a lot of those have thin wall sockets that should work. Maybe take the carb into Sears and see if they have open stock sockets that will fit. Then you just have to buy one socket.
 
Well, got a little more progress with the sickle bar. May makeup the hanger to keep the rear up today. If I can remember where I put my piece of angle iron I will bolt the pulley shaft in it's new location.
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Kraig,

First of all, many thanks for finding the instructions for the spring assist. I'm always amazed at how you can find things given the amount of information out there. I just sent you via e-mail a pic that Myron sent me. Catching up with the forum today, I noticed that you already posted what he sent me. So, please disregard.

Re the two CW-36 instruction manuals, as promised, I reviewd both editions in the tub last Saturday night. The 2nd edition includes the installation of the PTO which was absent in the first edition.

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Ray-

"I reviewed both editions in the tub last Saturday night."

Did we really need to know about the "in the tub" part??? Oh the imagery.....

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Art,
Next to the toilet it's where I do my best thinkin'
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I have a clutch question....how do you adjust it? I'm not talking about adjusting the pedal, my clutch is catching at the very TOP of the pedal. I've looked at everything and can't seem to understand where or how to adjust it....OR does this mean I need to install a new clutch pad?
 
I'm going to imagine Amanda Peet reading manuals in the tub...

I'm contemplating the purchase of a CW-36 thrower myself. I was saving some funds for the Jeep project, but I don't know if I can pass this up.

Jerry B was showing me a different kind of narrow frame spring assist. The one that clamps to the lift bar for the 3pt and goes to the rear of the frame. Looks like Brendan has one on his tractor he's mocking up the sickle mower on. Is there a benefit for either spring assist? Other than the one Kraig posted instructions for you wouldn't need the 3pt for it to work.
 
KEN - Yep, 450 could have handled a 4-row chopper easily....Only time I knew it was back there was every time I let the clutch out or threw the TA ahead....front wheels came about 2-3 feet off the ground....that little 5 ft chopper was HEAVY!. That 450 was ALWAYS catching air like that....
Valve keepers on Kohlers are easy....the valve springs are so soft You can almost compress them with Your fingers if You have a third hand to install them. Helps to have Your engine on an engine stand turned upside-down too. Also if You reinstall the valve rotators be very careful how You handle them. If they come apart I hope You have a clean shop floor because those six little ball bearings the size of a B-B will take off on You....BT-DT.
CHARLIE - Hank planning on attending PD? Last PD I went to at Travis' He pulled in right ahead of Me after His 800+ mi drive.
 
Keith, not sure there's a benefit to one or the other but the style you are referring to (made by Brinly) requires a rear lift to install.

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George L,

Two things about the rigid flex plate trouble me a bit. First, mild steel will eventually fatigue and crack due to the bending stresses. Spring steel would be a more preferable material.

Secondly, the rubber couplings absorb torsional inputs inherent in any single-cylinder engine driveline application. This protects the transmission components from severe torsional impulses that can destroy parts rather quickly. The rigid couplings don't offer any torsional compliance.
 
Kraig, thanks. I didn't think about it being a Brinly item. I'm just getting used to this Narrow Frame thing.

I dropped the fuel bowl from the 100 on my lunch and took the float in and held it down in a cup of hot water. No bubbles... Took it back out and put it back in. Kind of hard to put the needle and float back together without pulling the carb all the way off, but I did it. Still would pour fuel out the overflow hole in the front bottom of the carb. Hmmm... I pulled the bowl off and removed the slosh gasket and of course the bowl gasket came out too. Couldn't get it back in without pulling the carb so I just screwed the bowl back on and turned on the fuel. Hey, it doesn't leak fuel now. I fired it up and it ran fine. Still a little tuning of the carb is probably necessary, but it starts off of 2 cranks with no choke. Now since I didn't want to lose a bunch of gas I didn't put a whole lot in the tank because Jerry didn't know for sure that it didn't leak. Now I'm out of gas, but I'll pick some up after work tonight... dang it, I forgot my MMO at home. Oh well, I'll just have to shake it up good tonight when I get home.
 
I have a question about my 125. It has hydralic lift as well as spring assist. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to having both or should the spring assist be unhooked since I have hydralic. It is the spring assist like the one the Kraig posted first.
 
Brendan - You might get by with that PTO drive line angle as slow as it'll be turning but it's not looking to good, or are you going to lift up the shaft with that angle when you find it ?
I've got some 3x3 3/8" wall angle if ya need a piece ;)
 
Donald - I spy a PC sitting there. Is it in the shop for "repairs"? An 8 pound sledge on the top of the case tunes'em up real nice
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