• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through March 09, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Bill J - you better only use that "other" color tractor around here at nite!!!! It would be my suggestion to just leave that thing in the snow pile you're making. It'll probably be gone come daylight.

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - I can only assume there was a glitch in your pc and those pics with green things slipped thru.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
 
Bill J: I didn't hear anyone praise the 1650's main feature vs. the 169 --which is also true of all Quiet Lines-- they are a lot quieter! I have only heard one well-maintained QL series tractor run, and then, only at idle; but I was nonetheless impressed --the thing was quiet.

I know my WIFE would really like me to have a QL tractor vs the 82 series (even with a new muffler) or a 149. The Model 149 also vibrates more than the Model 782. If I was spending extended seat time on it, I think I might even prefer the 1450 over the 149.

That being said, I do like the control offered by the mechanical PTO. The Model 149 also has not been subjected to the "value engineering" endured by the Quiet Line models, or at least the ones of which I have first-hand knowledge.

All I know is that if I had a 1650 in my possession, I would keep it, fix it up as best I could, and be proud to own it!
smile.gif
 
As I mentioned before, one of my neighbors has a 122 and a 129. The first time I looked at the tractors several years ago, he had a Cat O plow. Is there anyway he could have used it on the 129? Is the rear part of the frame on a 129 the same as a 127? Thanks Ed
 
Bill J., must've been warm that night, looks like you're throwin' snow in your shirt sleeves! Or maybe that off color tractor had a heater? LOL
 
Good morning, All.
happy.gif
Interesting reading about adding weight to a plow for more depth. Yes, three years ago we did it at a Boone, Iowa Plow Day. Even the full size tractor/plows had touble due to such hard ground. This was one extreme condition. If your plow is truly set correctly no matter if it is a Brinly, Dayton, or a full size plow then no extra weight should ever be necessary to get proper depth. I remember more than one mechanic and dealer telling me about farmers that had either their front of the plow set too deep or too shallow and the back was the exact opposite. They said the farmer didn't follow the owner's manual or ask for help in initially setting the plow.

Back to work..... Everyone have a wonderful day.
 
Bought a cub cadet 109 a couple of weeks ago and finally able to get inside of it. I have a couple of pictures of the destroyed rod. When this occured it chipped of a chunk of cast iron from the bottom cylinder sleeve. Will I still be able to use this block for a rebuild or will I have to replace it?? The last picture shows the inside of block. The small chunk came from just about dead center of picture. It turned out a little darker than I would have liked.

236368.jpg


236369.jpg


236370.jpg
 
terry you should be ok just need to check and double check the block for any cracks. i have a ford lgt 145 with a chip like that out of it and it runs fine.
 
Terry G - you jumped right into the internals and didn't tell us about the externals. Did you get the PTO bearing, locking collar and basket pulley off????

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but do have some things break)
 
had to share this with you guys

started tearing down a model 72 to redo for my daughter

(complete redo) strarted to pull the clutch out and noticed the drive shaft moving around in the coupler

the spiral pin broke in the center

i got everything apart and pulled the 2nd spiral pin on the coupler and it didnt look much better

236386.jpg


on the left is a new one middle is the 2nd pin (closest to the rear end ) and on the right is the totally broken one
i couldnt believe it when i saw how bad the pins were ( and it is a good thing that i decided to tear the tractor down or it would have have happened when using it )

keep in mind this is only a 72 so a 7hp motor
 
Oh yeah forgot to mention locking collar and bearing came right off after a 3 day soak. I just had to tap a few times and the collar rotated right off and was able to get things off. Still working on the pully. It seems to be a bit tuffer. Got the time to wait so will take my time and hopefully get it off without damage. Hope to be able to salvage block as dont suppose those blocks go for cheap. Thanks again for all the tips. i couldnt have done it without the help i am getting here.
 
RE: Plows, settings, and weight....

Brinly plows cannot be directly compared to big plows. The draft line is not nearly as adjustable, nor is it as predictable. What has said about weight and settings is VERY true for big tractor plows with wide ranging hitch adjustments, etc., but unless you are pulling a Brinly in the lightest and softest of soils the "ideals" associated with larger plows cannot be maintained....at BEST a Brinly is a compromise between plowing depth, speeed, and furrow quality...with precious few meaningful adjustments to help with the "dial in" (point, hitch position, and landing being the most obvious). Those who are only plowing soft gardens or 1/2 clay x 1/2 sand soils can achieve the "ideal", but other conditions really begin to take a toll on a Brinly.

Also consider that a brinly plow is VERY light weight in construction for it's size (relative to big tractor plows). Many Brinly plows are being asked to do a job that is 80-90% of what some of the old antique Farmalls are doing with a Little Genius plow (they usually don't plow more than 8-10" deep pulling 14" bottoms....yet a Brinly weighs consideribly less than the big plow......doing colse to the same work.

For those who can manage it, 30-40# of weight on a Brinly makes ALL the difference......in almost all of the cases......you can do better work because you have taken some of the compromise out of the "point" setting. You can flatten the plow out to do better work without loosing depth.

Brinlys do amazing work in conditions for which they were not designed (soybean fields)......and flat out fantastic work in the typical garden (their intended market).......but some weight, clearance, and rolling cutter work can make them even BETTER all around.

I don't view weight as "cheating", instead it's a tool to make your implement run better.....ideals shouldn't cloud "in furrow" performance for their own sake. I use to consider weigth a crutch....until I started playing with what it can do for a Brinly set up and realized I had left a "tool" back in the tool box.

Hope everyone enjoys their spring plowing, be it gardens, plow days, or (heaven forbid) that last monster snow storm!!!!
happy.gif
happy.gif
happy.gif
 
I have just purchased a 582 with serial
# 2050592V674637. If I understand right it is a IH built tractor. Runs good looks good needs a good polish job and mows good. Is this where I list pictures and questions about it or go to the red section.
 
Steve - Very good points on the Brinley moldboard plow. I used mine yesterday, set-up per the manual on a sleeve hitch. I have used this plow many times and had some great results and some not so great ones too. Yesterday, I was plowing virgin sod. Luckly this was softer, black ground and almost zero rocks. No matter the plow point/landside setting, I couldn't get the plow to go down more than a few inches. After several adjustments, I removed the coulter (mine is smooth/round) as I felt it was holding the plow up and from time to time, a chunk of sod would jam between it and the moldboard. That helped. Finally, I had to have my Brother stand on the plow to get it down and then it pulled OK - but hard. Not having the cloulter caused the draft to be much harder and then came the spinning of tires.

I think I'm going to modify the coulter and add a round steel rod to the back of my plow so I can add/remove round bar bell weights to it.

Mike - I wasn't to cold blowing snow that evening. When that picture was taken, I was a real FAT-A... Now that I've skinnied-up, I need a cab and fur coat to keep warm. The weight loss could also be impacting the moldboard plow performance. Maybe I need to add back to the plow the weight I lost.

Scott - I've tried the "I'm buy'in this tractor for you" but my Wife/boss sees through this EVERY time. I'VE GOT THAT WOMAN RIGHT WHERE SHE WANTS ME!!!!!

Thanks everyone for your help!
Bill
 
Joe: Looks to me like you made it under the wire. Hank Will says that final S/N of IH 582's is 694233.
happy.gif
 
Terry, The block will be fine to use. Just dress up the edges where it broke. The rings don't get down that far in the cylinder. In fact, we have to grind notches like that on both sides of the cylinder when we use the billet 4 bolt rods in our pullers for clearance.
 
I am trying to post pictures, but when I press upload attachment it does nothing. HELP!!
 
Joe sometimes when I upload photos they take a long time and this is normally from either the photo too big ( over 100 kb) or my internet provider is uploading too slow.

We do want to see pictures so keep trying or email them to Kraig or Charlie thru their profiles


I use internet frog and speakeasy speed test for checking my speeds
 
Well I believe I just had to wait an extra 30 seconds here they are I hope. i love the little toy motor in this. The lights an grill is good. Seat one tear, 350 hour not posative? HIT ENTER BUTTON

236403.jpg
HIT ENTER BUTTON
236404.jpg
HIT ENTER BUTTON
236405.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top