Archive through March 03, 2013

[wshytle]

David-

It looks like you will need to spend something under $100 to get the pto right. There are suppose to be two set screws in each of the three holes. The first one is about 1/2" long and has a tapered point that locks behind the bearing and holds the pto to the crank. The second screw is only about 1/4" long with a regular point to lock behind the first set screw. Be sure and run a 1/4-20 tap through each hole to clean out any rust/dirt. The steel button that goes into the spring hole is called the thrust button and has no spacers or such. The three "wings" are levers and go into the slot ring around the thrust button. You're dealing with a nf pto which only has the one spring. Any mechanical clutch would work but you can put yours back like new and don't necessarily need another.

Charlie has everything you will need to do a total rebuild and an adjusting gauge comes with the clutch rebuild kit. Other parts you will have to order individually.

Hope this helps.

 

[dschwandt]

Thanks Wayne, This assly had 2 (pictured) of the metal tri-angled springs that are flat and do not have the bend on the ends like pictured in the parts lookup, as well as 2 clutch discs. no sign of short lock set screws. Perhaps this was a replacement clutch to begin with and not original to the tractor. Who knows what may nhave transpired in the past with swaping parts and such and numerous PO's?

Dave S

 

[wshytle]

David-

I actually viewed your pto earlier and wasn't paying attention very well (brain fart). It IS a wf pto with the two springs, etc. It will still work just fine on your nf tractor.

Obviously Charlie offers the kit for both wf and nf ptos and you'll need to get the wf. The clutch disc will be the thicker one and only one will be needed. The rest of the parts are interchangeable. Now would be a good time for some paint as well. Heck, I even paint the springs front and back because they come bare steel. Same for the thrust button. I hate putting any bare steel in a cub.

 

[bjamison]

Quick PTO question:

I read that the clutches on these gear drive CC's are designed for 10 hp, but what about the other end if the motor? Did IH move away from the mechanical PTO to the electric PTO to eliminate slippage and the hp went higher with the later QL tractors and the 82 series models?

I can see that even with a 582 that you might only use 10 hp when having a hard pull with a moldboard plow, but with a snowblower or large deck in high grass, use more hp - and with an electric PTO, potentially less or no slippage?

 

[dfrisk]

BILL - Where did you read that the engine/transmission clutch will only handle or was designed to only handle 10 HP?

The elec. PTO clutches may have a higher torque transmission rating than the mechanical clutches, but BOTH have more torque capability than a 14, 16, or 20 HP engine can produce.

Depending on what attachment you're running, the belt is normally the weak link, will slip before the clutch. IH went with the larger cross-section belts on the red tractors for a good reason. The old smaller 3/8" belts were just about maxed out.

On my NF tractors with the mech. PTO clutches, I much prefer them to the elec clutch on my 982 because I can "Feather" meaning slip them until the attachment is up to speed. With the elec. clutches, they're ON or OFF, with just the flip of a switch. BIG shock to the drive belts and idlers on the mule drives.

 

[brhodes]

Harry

I had not read the posts for the last few days (been working) so I did not realize you were really talking about scoring the Cubs.
I've never been to a show or part of a club. Just me and Dad hanging out doing something we can still do and enjoy together.

So now have a few questions and not just trying to be funny or being a smart a$$.

Do you also start them up and drive them as part of the scoring process? Looking for ease of start, smooth idle, high speed running, shifting, ect.. using the "Butt Dyno" (CRS not sure who used that term) My Butt Dyno has always been my most valuable tool when adjusting my Cubs. Mainly cause most of our tools are for cars.

Also what kind of point loss would you get for say a bolt that was a replacement. Not looking for a unfair advantage just a better understanding. What ever you can share without violating your code as a judge is appreciated.

 

[dschwandt]

Question: Any one know what this part fits or how to find out short of hours on end digging through parts books? It's a hub, NOS #IH-289391-R2 no picture.

Dave S

 

[tbdavis]

Well, since we're talking pto's - any recommendations for a good cleaner for the disc pads? I've got a couple to put back together and want to clean em up good while they're apart. Was thinking about brake cleaner to de-glaze them but at $30 a pop I thought it might pay to ask for advice. Thanks

 

[dschwandt]

Terry, I've cleaned up auto brake pads that were kinda glazed w/just a quick rubbing w/sandpaper to get them looking good again. Of course if they have been contaminated w/grease/oil they may be un-useable. I don't think any kind of spray on cleaner would be a good idea. The brake parts cleaner in spray cans is for the metal parts of the brake system and not for use on rubber or painted surfaces so I'm not sure just what if anything, it would do to the integrity of a fibre clutch/brake disc.
JMHO

Dave S.

 

[digger]

David S.
I think you'll find that nassauequipment doesn't necessarily knows from one day to the next what anything is, nor do they know how to type!!!!
And don't ya think that if it was such a good deal that it would have already been snatched up!

BTW, that number is no good in any shape or form, LOL