Here are some photos that Denny took this weekend of his modified mower deck:
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Archive through June 13, 2010
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The original two problems were oil and a bad spindle for the deck. Forget the spindle for this post. The first problem was that I was burning a lot of oil (3/4 qt in 2 acres). I took off the side panels and surrounded the engine with cardboard and found a spray coming from the area of the PTO end front seal. First: Note that I’m a rookie at this, I never did any of this before. With the forum’s help and my manuals I replaced the seal (the old one was in three pieces) and reset the gaps. In the process I noticed that the cooling fan under the tunnel amidships was missing all but one fan blade. Since I was cleaning up the oil and the exhaust vents and side panels were off I thought why not go further and replace the fan. I struggled with the drive shaft roll pin and in the process of getting the drive shaft out I put the tractor on jack stands, took off the mule, removed bottom plates, front wheels, loosened the engine mounts (only two bolts were there) as well as loosened and checked the isolation mounts in the process. That took me about three weeks of evenings to get apart and back together with the correct bolts in the proper places and fan and circ ring etc. Engine was idle all this time. Yesterday I double checked everything I could remember and what I found in the manual and started it up. Forward and reverse work fine. Clutch seems fine, no noises, hesitation or jerkiness. No oil spray from seal area and the clearance on the fan is as it should be. Front hydro connector at the grill dripped maybe ten drops (after shutdown). Took it out and on level it seemed fine BUT the throttle was half way up before it started to rev (but it did rev) and it never got to the high end as I remember it. Still, it was passable. When I took it up a hill (say thirty feet rise in 200 foot distance) it would not make it. Jerked and wanted to stall. Urged it back to the pen. When I got there I rechecked bolts and that I had reinstalled the headlamps and ground and other stuff. I noticed that the spark plug cable was loose at the starter. That will have to be replaced as it does not want to stay connected. Before writing this
I took it out again this AM. No change. The spark plug wire was taped securely on for this test. Engine ran fine but still no full throttle and the tractor forward speed worked well only between the two marks on the speed control on the dash. If I put the speed control above the mark toward the firewall the engine sort of hesitated but continued forward but not as smoothly as it should. Almost a wheeze. I turned it around and back to cover. For certain the spark plug cable needs replaced and I can’t see the connector at the starter motor – maybe that is where the connection problem is for that item. Still I need more power and smoother running at the top end. And for sure I need it to pull the hill as it NEVER had that problem before. I know nothing about throttle cables and less of governors—if that is the problem. I need a really good opinion and a projected cost if only in part time hours. I’m getting out of my comfort zone -- again.
The original two problems were oil and a bad spindle for the deck. Forget the spindle for this post. The first problem was that I was burning a lot of oil (3/4 qt in 2 acres). I took off the side panels and surrounded the engine with cardboard and found a spray coming from the area of the PTO end front seal. First: Note that I’m a rookie at this, I never did any of this before. With the forum’s help and my manuals I replaced the seal (the old one was in three pieces) and reset the gaps. In the process I noticed that the cooling fan under the tunnel amidships was missing all but one fan blade. Since I was cleaning up the oil and the exhaust vents and side panels were off I thought why not go further and replace the fan. I struggled with the drive shaft roll pin and in the process of getting the drive shaft out I put the tractor on jack stands, took off the mule, removed bottom plates, front wheels, loosened the engine mounts (only two bolts were there) as well as loosened and checked the isolation mounts in the process. That took me about three weeks of evenings to get apart and back together with the correct bolts in the proper places and fan and circ ring etc. Engine was idle all this time. Yesterday I double checked everything I could remember and what I found in the manual and started it up. Forward and reverse work fine. Clutch seems fine, no noises, hesitation or jerkiness. No oil spray from seal area and the clearance on the fan is as it should be. Front hydro connector at the grill dripped maybe ten drops (after shutdown). Took it out and on level it seemed fine BUT the throttle was half way up before it started to rev (but it did rev) and it never got to the high end as I remember it. Still, it was passable. When I took it up a hill (say thirty feet rise in 200 foot distance) it would not make it. Jerked and wanted to stall. Urged it back to the pen. When I got there I rechecked bolts and that I had reinstalled the headlamps and ground and other stuff. I noticed that the spark plug cable was loose at the starter. That will have to be replaced as it does not want to stay connected. Before writing this
I took it out again this AM. No change. The spark plug wire was taped securely on for this test. Engine ran fine but still no full throttle and the tractor forward speed worked well only between the two marks on the speed control on the dash. If I put the speed control above the mark toward the firewall the engine sort of hesitated but continued forward but not as smoothly as it should. Almost a wheeze. I turned it around and back to cover. For certain the spark plug cable needs replaced and I can’t see the connector at the starter motor – maybe that is where the connection problem is for that item. Still I need more power and smoother running at the top end. And for sure I need it to pull the hill as it NEVER had that problem before. I know nothing about throttle cables and less of governors—if that is the problem. I need a really good opinion and a projected cost if only in part time hours. I’m getting out of my comfort zone -- again.
GERRY - PAY NO ATTENTION TO THE BLADES !!!! ;-)
I thought it trimmed closer on the left end, that blade tip is about 1/2 inch from the outside surface of the left end.
I think it's held up really well, think it was '86 or '87 I did the mods. Nothings ever broke, and even with all the rocks & branches it's busted up nothing is bent.
I thought it trimmed closer on the left end, that blade tip is about 1/2 inch from the outside surface of the left end.
I think it's held up really well, think it was '86 or '87 I did the mods. Nothings ever broke, and even with all the rocks & branches it's busted up nothing is bent.
Kraig McC.,
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for posting Dennis' pictures!
Dennis F.,
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for sharing pictures of your modified 38" mower deck. VERY INTERESTING and somewhat different than I had pictured in my head.
I see the lip you added to the deck edge goes toward the INSIDE of the the deck. For some reason, I was picturing it leading OUTWARD from the deck edge. I can see that inward may be better as it would lessen the chances of it sticking out & getting hung up on taller stubble/short brush.
It is evident that by adding the front gage wheels allowed you to remove the slide runners. By doing so, nothing is getting caught/hung up in the runners and no need to replace the runners as they wear down. The wheels likely will wear less /last longer than the runners. Good and simple idea.
So, what is up with those blades? Home-made "gator mutching blades"? Do they seem to work better at mulching and moving the cuttings out the deck side exit? Knowing what you know now, would you still add the 'wings' to the blades?
I really like the way you narrowed the deck to just beyond the blade tips. By adding the front wheels and removing the runners allows this mod easiy. Another very good idea.
I also really like the deeper 2" blade shrouds. Easy and a good thing.
THANKS AGAIN FOR SHARING, DENNIS!
Ryan Wilke
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for posting Dennis' pictures!
Dennis F.,
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for sharing pictures of your modified 38" mower deck. VERY INTERESTING and somewhat different than I had pictured in my head.
I see the lip you added to the deck edge goes toward the INSIDE of the the deck. For some reason, I was picturing it leading OUTWARD from the deck edge. I can see that inward may be better as it would lessen the chances of it sticking out & getting hung up on taller stubble/short brush.
It is evident that by adding the front gage wheels allowed you to remove the slide runners. By doing so, nothing is getting caught/hung up in the runners and no need to replace the runners as they wear down. The wheels likely will wear less /last longer than the runners. Good and simple idea.
So, what is up with those blades? Home-made "gator mutching blades"? Do they seem to work better at mulching and moving the cuttings out the deck side exit? Knowing what you know now, would you still add the 'wings' to the blades?
I really like the way you narrowed the deck to just beyond the blade tips. By adding the front wheels and removing the runners allows this mod easiy. Another very good idea.
I also really like the deeper 2" blade shrouds. Easy and a good thing.
THANKS AGAIN FOR SHARING, DENNIS!
Ryan Wilke
Gary-
A couple of things to check: If the engine is using that much oil the points can get dirty real fast and cause problems. The grommet (wire) on the points cover needs to be carefully placed and the gaske needs to be good as well. The throttle situation sounds like the cable has slipped (as someone mentioned here earlier) through the clamp located below and to the right of the breather. If the trunion springs and cam plates have never been "serviced"/replaced then they are going to affect both power and speed control.
Just my .02 . . . .Good luck
A couple of things to check: If the engine is using that much oil the points can get dirty real fast and cause problems. The grommet (wire) on the points cover needs to be carefully placed and the gaske needs to be good as well. The throttle situation sounds like the cable has slipped (as someone mentioned here earlier) through the clamp located below and to the right of the breather. If the trunion springs and cam plates have never been "serviced"/replaced then they are going to affect both power and speed control.
Just my .02 . . . .Good luck
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- Allen Schumacher
With those paddles on the blades I bet grass flies out of there faster than snow out of Charlies blower!
Gary
Are you saying that when you start up the hill the engine sounds like it's really straining or are you saying the engine stays running the same speed and the tractor slows down? This makes a big difference in the advice you get.
That wire your talking about, I believe that is the spark plug wire. It comes from the coil and carries the electricity to the spark plug to make a spark and set off an explosion in the cylinder. Carefully pull it out of the coil it should have a brass piece firmly attached to the wire. Keeping with that same wire, carefully remove it from the spark plug look inside the rubber boot. You should see another brass peice it should also be firmly attached to the wire. Both ends should also fit snug in the coil and on the plug. If either brass piece is missing or not firmly attached this could be your problem. This would cause a weak spark, less explosion in the cylinder and less power overall. The engine might sound fine with no load (just sitting there running) but when you start up a hill or try to take off fast or turn the mower on, it wont have enough power to move.
You mentioned you need to replace the wire so I thought I would go over that. You also said you were a newbie so I explained the basics in case you didn't know. Don't give up and don't let the frustration get to you! Thats when I really screw things up.
Are you saying that when you start up the hill the engine sounds like it's really straining or are you saying the engine stays running the same speed and the tractor slows down? This makes a big difference in the advice you get.
That wire your talking about, I believe that is the spark plug wire. It comes from the coil and carries the electricity to the spark plug to make a spark and set off an explosion in the cylinder. Carefully pull it out of the coil it should have a brass piece firmly attached to the wire. Keeping with that same wire, carefully remove it from the spark plug look inside the rubber boot. You should see another brass peice it should also be firmly attached to the wire. Both ends should also fit snug in the coil and on the plug. If either brass piece is missing or not firmly attached this could be your problem. This would cause a weak spark, less explosion in the cylinder and less power overall. The engine might sound fine with no load (just sitting there running) but when you start up a hill or try to take off fast or turn the mower on, it wont have enough power to move.
You mentioned you need to replace the wire so I thought I would go over that. You also said you were a newbie so I explained the basics in case you didn't know. Don't give up and don't let the frustration get to you! Thats when I really screw things up.
Fellas,
Referring to the PARTS LOOK UP for the typical 129 attachments, the illustrations depict three designs of 38" & 42" Main Frame & knife Units (mower decks).
In comparing the 'travel control' differences of the three decks, I noticed that the first design (issued from '63-'68) only had rear-mounted plastic gage wheels. The second design (issued from '68 - '71) had the front & center-mounted wooden roller, a metal runner on either side AND rear-mounted plastic gage wheels. The third design (issued from '71-'74) only had the front & center-mounted wooden roller and metal runners on either side; no rear gage wheels.
When looking at the various mower decks offered with the 169 Cubs, their deck types were of only two combinations of 'travel control' design. The 48" deck issued from '63-'68 and from '68-71 were a setup similar to the 2nd design 38"/42" decks, whereas the 48" decks issued from '71-'73 AND the 44"/50" decks had a setup similar to the 3rd design 38"/42" decks.
I wonder why IHC dropped the rear gage wheels on the later designed decks?
Ryan Wilke
Referring to the PARTS LOOK UP for the typical 129 attachments, the illustrations depict three designs of 38" & 42" Main Frame & knife Units (mower decks).
In comparing the 'travel control' differences of the three decks, I noticed that the first design (issued from '63-'68) only had rear-mounted plastic gage wheels. The second design (issued from '68 - '71) had the front & center-mounted wooden roller, a metal runner on either side AND rear-mounted plastic gage wheels. The third design (issued from '71-'74) only had the front & center-mounted wooden roller and metal runners on either side; no rear gage wheels.
When looking at the various mower decks offered with the 169 Cubs, their deck types were of only two combinations of 'travel control' design. The 48" deck issued from '63-'68 and from '68-71 were a setup similar to the 2nd design 38"/42" decks, whereas the 48" decks issued from '71-'73 AND the 44"/50" decks had a setup similar to the 3rd design 38"/42" decks.
I wonder why IHC dropped the rear gage wheels on the later designed decks?
Ryan Wilke
