Archive through June 12, 2013

[bjamison]

Steve B - thanks for the info on oils, good stuff.

Terry D - I was also thinking maybe the fix was to have a new keyway machined 180 degrees from the one you've got - but it's good to know there's another way to skin this cat!

Mowed again with the 126 and 48 inch deck. It's amazing how quick this engine starts with a fresh battery...

Can't put my finger on it - but it seems the S/G in the 126 spins faster than the one on the 109. Is this possible? I figured both were electric motors when in the starter mode and the RPM's would be the same.

Still giving the 2nd gear for mowing on the 126 a try. 1st is definitely to slow, for rougher ground, 2nd is almost to fast from a buttox point of view...

I'd like to get my hands on a 128 and try the 2nd gear on that model and see how it compares to the 126 where I'm mowing.

I'm very surprised as how well the 48 inch deck cuts. I expected the quality of cut to be something less as compared to the 44a deck I've got on the 109.

Made a little progress the other night with the 1650 (very little). Hooked up all the electrical and turn my attention to the gas tank. Gas tank valve is clogged. I'll try to get the valve going again, but I should think a better solution is to fit the tank with some kind of bulkhead fitting, use an inline filter and shut-off valve. Anyone done this?

The 122 is still in the parts donor mode. I was looking over the 3 point hitch and the lift handle. I kind of like the floating bail on the 122 vs the button used on my 126 (which is missing) and my 109. I assume when you folks are moldboard plowing you are in float position? With the 126, inspite of the bumpy ride, I can really knock out some grass with it and I gather the 122 shares the same 2nd gear ratio. In as much as the 122 needs an engine and I've got a deck, front plow, a lift lever that works (float position) and a 3 point hitch already installed, I'm thinking about maybe hanging on to this tractor for another day. We'll see. I think Momma would like to see them all go and in place of them a small RER that starts everytime, doesn't have flat tires, dead batteries or take-up a whole basement, with parts scattered about....

 

[afoes]

If you do weld on that shaft. Keep the heat down and for very short duration. At that point on the shaft you could easily warp the shaft and it would not run true.

 

[tbdavis]

Well - here she is. Ground down key to form a step key to hopefully gain a little strength from the un-worn portion of the keyway, then ground another scrap key to kit the worn slot. At least it's all steel (no putty) and with a dab of locktite and locking the pulley on it seems solid and guessing it will hold up. Any thoughts or advice from here? Thanks. BTW - killed half a day!

 

[tbdavis]

Oops - forgot the pic.

 

[mfrade]

It would've been better to do that in one continuous piece of keystock.. Are you going to add weld to the gap? (I would!) using a "skip weld" technique make small quick tacks about an inch apart and slowly fill in the gaps. Take plenty of time in between tacks allowing the crank to cool to maintain temper. Also consider a product like Loc-tite Retaining compound. Made to secure bearings and other rotating components.

HTH!..

 

[digger]

Terry D.
You coulda at least used a new key! You tightwad!

 

[tcampbell]

I have a 1250 with an ogura pto clutch which has gone bad. The field coil is the bad part the rest is OK. I can't find a replacement ogura field coil. Can I replace the whole thing with a warner pto? Does anyone know if I can take the field coil to a local electric motor shop to be rewound? How can I not spend $ 400to$500 to fix this?

 

[digger]

Tom C.
I checked 8 places around the country last year and the cheapest I found to rewind the field coil was around $200.00.
Put an ad in the Wanted section, and switch that silver POS out for a black Warner that you can still get parts for.

 

[drglinski]

Chris R

If you want 12 v. Farmall lights you need to look at one from like a MD.

 

[danderson]

tcampbell-
The Warner will swap. 2 on e-bay right now. Check the sponsors for used one's.

 

[tbdavis]

Mike - it actually is one long key stock with the portion where the bearing rides ground down smooth with the shaft. The entire area that is worn is maybe an inch long and that where I used a sliver (16th or so) to fill the worn area beside the long key. The pulley is actually riding on the portion of the long key that is higher and the sliver is covered and held in place under the puller shaft. Seems like the long key would have to shear at the hump for anything to give out. Thought about welding the worn part rather than filling with the key sliver but my welding skills are pathetic at best. With the long key and key plug I'm hoping everything will stay in place. That's about the best my feeble mind could come up with today. Thanks

 

[tbdavis]

Charlie - tightwad-r-me! Think she'll hold? Gonna mothball my other crank just in case my finely honed engineering skills prove faulty.

 

[digger]

Terry D.
I did that exact same thing to a K241 15 years ago on a water pump and it's still kickin.

 

[rneubauer]

Paint question: I found a 44C mower deck in decent shape, and had it sandblasted. I welded the cracks and filled a few holes, then painted the whole thing in POR15 paint. I want to paint the shell now in IH white, and was wondering if anyone else has experience in Topcoating POR15. I'm using the Case IH ironguard enamel in a HVLP paint gun, and also have the Irongaurd primer. My thoughts are to scuff the POR15, hit it with the primer, and then topcoat with the enamel with hardener. Is the primer necessary? Any help from others with experience is appreciated

 

[danderson]

Rob-
You need to put a self-etching primer between the POR-15 and the top coat. It is too slick for the other paint to stick. Roughing up the POR-15 won't do it.

 

[mfrade]

Terry D., No sweat. in your writeup it sounds like you used 2 separate keys. If you're not welding it, I'd highly suggest the retaining compound by Loc-Tite!

 

[tbdavis]

Mike - thank you very much for your advice and I'll definitely put some retainer compound down as you suggest.

Charlie - your experience gives me hope. I'll keep my fingers crossed!

 

[jboelens]

Terry, was your half day including two naps or just one? lol

 

[rneubauer]

Doug, Thanks for paint advice. Any further advice on the "self etching primer" for brand? I see you live in Peninsula, Ohio not to far from me.

 

[tbdavis]

John - only one nap today - post lunch. Nothing like a good nap to sleep off a microwaved hotdog and Cheetos!