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Archive through July 20, 2012
- Thread starter dross
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
proessler
Well-known member
Yeh Denny ,I finished mowing front & back yards that are protected by shade & kept <font color="119911">Green</font> by the Rain Now Pro. My RN gauge showed 1.4". I pulled mower into shop to see front tire on the 882 Diesel in need of alot more air! Mowing once a month saves on fuel & rest since I haven't had much time off keeping other places green.
Tom H.
Somethin wrong with you lookin in the manual section or are ya just lazy today cause it's hot?
http://www.ccmanuals.info/trailers.html
Somethin wrong with you lookin in the manual section or are ya just lazy today cause it's hot?
http://www.ccmanuals.info/trailers.html
Actually both, lazy @ hot. I did look (after the scolding) and it isn't there. It's a "tandem" axle one. My Dad had one when I was a kid. I have a scan of it somplace but I be ------ if I can find it.
Moved it over the correct area.
Moved it over the correct area.
Moved and added some to it.
Anything else I can do for ya.
Anything else I can do for ya.
More progress (?) on my 1250 nightmare today. I got the cooling fan glued to the drive shaft and set back into place on the tractor. I gave the front axle carrier one more squeeze to see if I can get it any tighter to eliminate side to side play in the front axle and I may have gained a little bit, but it took a pinch bar and a lot of WD-40 to get it back into place. It is a whole lot better than it was.
I set the engine cradle using 3/8" x 2 1/4" grade 8 bolts from Caterpillar. Once again, I torqued the bolts to 100 inch pounds, as per the OEM ISO mount instructions. Once again, the mounts were grossly pancaked, and I didn't think it looked right. This time, I used all steel lock nuts from Caterpillar, not Nylock nuts. I re-tightened the bolts to the forum recommended one thread showing, then two threads showing. At both tests, the mounts were able to be rotated with my fingers, and I thought that they were a bit loose. I then backed off the torque wrench to about 70 inch pounds with no luck. The mounts were still loose. I settled on 85 inch pounds. The mounts cannot be turned with my fingers and there is a slight compression of the upper and lower rubber units. The snubbers are off the frame about a tenth of an inch. It will only be a guess if this is okay. Time will tell, I suppose.
After all that messing around, I did something mindless and made a wiring harness for headlights and taillights to be installed at a later date. The switch and fuse holder is in place and the wires are hot to their final mounts. I need to figure out how to route the wire to the headlights. I think the tail light wire will fine a place on its own. I also pulled the front wheels to check the bearings. The bearings are in great shape, but I need to find one front wheel, as the hub is hammered out pretty bad.
Tomorrow, the engine gets set on its cradle. I hope everything lines up as it should.
I set the engine cradle using 3/8" x 2 1/4" grade 8 bolts from Caterpillar. Once again, I torqued the bolts to 100 inch pounds, as per the OEM ISO mount instructions. Once again, the mounts were grossly pancaked, and I didn't think it looked right. This time, I used all steel lock nuts from Caterpillar, not Nylock nuts. I re-tightened the bolts to the forum recommended one thread showing, then two threads showing. At both tests, the mounts were able to be rotated with my fingers, and I thought that they were a bit loose. I then backed off the torque wrench to about 70 inch pounds with no luck. The mounts were still loose. I settled on 85 inch pounds. The mounts cannot be turned with my fingers and there is a slight compression of the upper and lower rubber units. The snubbers are off the frame about a tenth of an inch. It will only be a guess if this is okay. Time will tell, I suppose.
After all that messing around, I did something mindless and made a wiring harness for headlights and taillights to be installed at a later date. The switch and fuse holder is in place and the wires are hot to their final mounts. I need to figure out how to route the wire to the headlights. I think the tail light wire will fine a place on its own. I also pulled the front wheels to check the bearings. The bearings are in great shape, but I need to find one front wheel, as the hub is hammered out pretty bad.
Tomorrow, the engine gets set on its cradle. I hope everything lines up as it should.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Brian - sounds like you got your axle all set. About the ISO=mounts, you're on the right track!!! I'm still confused tho. How many threads are showing at 85in.lbs??? If you've got 3 or 4 showing, cannot rotate the rubbers with your fingers, have about 1/10th in gap for the snubbers, then I think you're "In Like Flint"!!!
Good idea about the headlight harness to. Your headlight wire should snake down from the dash support to the right side of the frame, and be held in place by the clips attached to the underside of the upper frame rail. I think there are 3 along the frame rail until you get all the way to the front of the frame. If you have a push/pull connector you can leave it at the front of the frame, or if you have more wire then you can run it up along the side of the lower grill housing and stop at a clip on the right hand bolt of the hood hinge. The wire runs right along side of the muffler box and you don't want much slack at that point so it cannot fall in front of the box.
Keep us informed. I think you're close to lovin' this tractor.
Good idea about the headlight harness to. Your headlight wire should snake down from the dash support to the right side of the frame, and be held in place by the clips attached to the underside of the upper frame rail. I think there are 3 along the frame rail until you get all the way to the front of the frame. If you have a push/pull connector you can leave it at the front of the frame, or if you have more wire then you can run it up along the side of the lower grill housing and stop at a clip on the right hand bolt of the hood hinge. The wire runs right along side of the muffler box and you don't want much slack at that point so it cannot fall in front of the box.
Keep us informed. I think you're close to lovin' this tractor.
Well, I gave up on this 800 QL chase.
More info revealed the fact that a PO had butchered the frame to make a larger starter fit. That and the missing air cleaner and air box parts was all it took.
Maybe next time!
Dave S.
More info revealed the fact that a PO had butchered the frame to make a larger starter fit. That and the missing air cleaner and air box parts was all it took.
Maybe next time!
Dave S.
Harry,
"I'm still confused tho. How many threads are showing at 85in.lbs??? If you've got 3 or 4 showing, cannot rotate the rubbers with your fingers, have about 1/10th in gap for the snubbers, then I think you're "In" That about explains it, Harry.
There are three to five threads showing on the bolts, depending on what position they are in and where one counts the threads. I
am about to set the engine and see how everything turns out. I hope everything lines up and I don't have to take a reamer to the mount holes. I'll be using new grade 8 bolts and lock washers from Caterpillar for the engine pan mounts. I wish I could post a photo or two, but my camera takes pictures that are too big to post.
Thanks for the advice on routing the headlight wire. I don't have any wire clamps on the tractor, so I'll have to try to find some wire clips. I have some push-pull connectors, but am wondering what Cub Cadet used to break the wire from the removable hood/grill assembly to the main harness. I left ample wire to go to the headlights, so placement of the disconnect is not critical. I do, however, wonder about the heat from the muffler box.
I have to get this nightmare running today, or it may cost me one of two things; a new Cub Cadet that I don't want, or a fully restored John Deere 140 with no deck, that I don't want either.
The only things that should be Green and Yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
"I'm still confused tho. How many threads are showing at 85in.lbs??? If you've got 3 or 4 showing, cannot rotate the rubbers with your fingers, have about 1/10th in gap for the snubbers, then I think you're "In" That about explains it, Harry.
There are three to five threads showing on the bolts, depending on what position they are in and where one counts the threads. I
am about to set the engine and see how everything turns out. I hope everything lines up and I don't have to take a reamer to the mount holes. I'll be using new grade 8 bolts and lock washers from Caterpillar for the engine pan mounts. I wish I could post a photo or two, but my camera takes pictures that are too big to post.
Thanks for the advice on routing the headlight wire. I don't have any wire clamps on the tractor, so I'll have to try to find some wire clips. I have some push-pull connectors, but am wondering what Cub Cadet used to break the wire from the removable hood/grill assembly to the main harness. I left ample wire to go to the headlights, so placement of the disconnect is not critical. I do, however, wonder about the heat from the muffler box.
I have to get this nightmare running today, or it may cost me one of two things; a new Cub Cadet that I don't want, or a fully restored John Deere 140 with no deck, that I don't want either.
The only things that should be Green and Yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
Dave,
Sorry to hear the 800 didn't pan out. You'll find another one. Sounds like it was missing all the hard to find parts. That isn't the one that was on the Southeast Iowa Craigslist was it? If it was, the one pic showed the butchered frame and bigger starter and the other showed the missing muffler stuff and air cleaner.
Sorry to hear the 800 didn't pan out. You'll find another one. Sounds like it was missing all the hard to find parts. That isn't the one that was on the Southeast Iowa Craigslist was it? If it was, the one pic showed the butchered frame and bigger starter and the other showed the missing muffler stuff and air cleaner.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
I've tried to refrain from commenting on the ISO mount subject but it seems to be a subject that never stops so I guess I will add my thoughts and you can take them or leave them.
Gentlemen this isn't Rocket Science, there just some rubber mounting devices to give the engine a little isolation. Several years ago I posted that following the directions that came with the ISO mounts, would squash the mounts and give a hard vibration to the engine. At that time if you used the original bolts and tightened the nuts to approx 1 to 2 threads exposed on top of the nut it would give good results. That had worked well for me.
I suspect that Cub Cadet bids the manufacturing of the mounts and the type and consistency of the material may change from year to year.
The way I see it with the engine mounted on the rails in the frame, the bolts should just snug the rail up to the rubbers. The rubbers shouldn't be compressed any more than the weight of the engine. The bolt should be tight enough that the rail doesn't bounce off the rubbers.
To me that is just Common Sense, no need for a torque wrench here. Now if you’re putting on a head, oil pan, or installing a connecting rod you better be using a torque wrench.
I suspect that the only reason Cub Cadet added the Torque requirement to the installion for the ISO mounts was a Liability concern. You can't just say use common sense when installing these rubbers, as some idiot will either squash the rubbers or not tighten the nut enough so the bolt falls out.
That’s just my .02 cents.
Gentlemen this isn't Rocket Science, there just some rubber mounting devices to give the engine a little isolation. Several years ago I posted that following the directions that came with the ISO mounts, would squash the mounts and give a hard vibration to the engine. At that time if you used the original bolts and tightened the nuts to approx 1 to 2 threads exposed on top of the nut it would give good results. That had worked well for me.
I suspect that Cub Cadet bids the manufacturing of the mounts and the type and consistency of the material may change from year to year.
The way I see it with the engine mounted on the rails in the frame, the bolts should just snug the rail up to the rubbers. The rubbers shouldn't be compressed any more than the weight of the engine. The bolt should be tight enough that the rail doesn't bounce off the rubbers.
To me that is just Common Sense, no need for a torque wrench here. Now if you’re putting on a head, oil pan, or installing a connecting rod you better be using a torque wrench.
I suspect that the only reason Cub Cadet added the Torque requirement to the installion for the ISO mounts was a Liability concern. You can't just say use common sense when installing these rubbers, as some idiot will either squash the rubbers or not tighten the nut enough so the bolt falls out.
That’s just my .02 cents.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Richard C - I agree with you. I actually think Brian is working with common sense as well. He doesn't want the ISO-mount rubbers to rotate which seems reasonable and he doesn't want them all pancaked compressed, so I think he's very close to what should work well. Once he gets the engine installed we should know.
Brian - make sure you ahve a good hard look on the under side of the right hand frame rail. All the frames have the clips attached to the frame. There should be one holding the complete wire harness directly in line with the dash support pedestal, there should be another one about 10 in. in front of it, and I believe there is another one in line with about where the starter is located, then there should be the standard bolt on clip in the rear bolt of the lower grill housing (maybe it's the front bolt). I believe this is the point where IH placed a push/pull connector. That way when you removed the lower grill housing you could just disconnect the light wire (dang my memory, hope that's right). The heat from the muffler box doesn't seem to effect the wire as long as the wire is not setting directly on the box. I'd just make sure the wire doesn't slip in front of the box.
Brian - make sure you ahve a good hard look on the under side of the right hand frame rail. All the frames have the clips attached to the frame. There should be one holding the complete wire harness directly in line with the dash support pedestal, there should be another one about 10 in. in front of it, and I believe there is another one in line with about where the starter is located, then there should be the standard bolt on clip in the rear bolt of the lower grill housing (maybe it's the front bolt). I believe this is the point where IH placed a push/pull connector. That way when you removed the lower grill housing you could just disconnect the light wire (dang my memory, hope that's right). The heat from the muffler box doesn't seem to effect the wire as long as the wire is not setting directly on the box. I'd just make sure the wire doesn't slip in front of the box.
Is there a trick to getting out the ball end of an allen wrench that has broken off in one of the set screws for the manual PTO on my 124? I soak them with PB Blaster and let it set for a few hours, but my son got impatient. Any suggestions ?
jbaker
Well-known member
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- Nov 10, 2008
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- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Thomas,,,bummer,, maybe spin the pto so the hole is pointing down and with some influence tapping from a hammer may loosen it enough to get the allen head to fall out..good luck
don,t be mad at the son he was trying to help and learned the downfall of the ballhead hex wrench
don,t be mad at the son he was trying to help and learned the downfall of the ballhead hex wrench
Thomas,
I'd say that the allen wrench head is now "jamed" against the sidewalls of the set screw. I would get a really small punch or make something outta' some metal scraps and see it you can tap it the other direction. Then if it loosens up maybe you get it out with a magnet. Crossing you fingers will help too.
I'd say that the allen wrench head is now "jamed" against the sidewalls of the set screw. I would get a really small punch or make something outta' some metal scraps and see it you can tap it the other direction. Then if it loosens up maybe you get it out with a magnet. Crossing you fingers will help too.
Carb - please help
okay finally got the walbro carb rebuild and back on the 1650 - had to change the coil and condensor had no spark must of fryed them trying to start this beast earlier sure i would of changed to a diffrent carb but hey i do not have a diffrent one
here is what is happening now - runs good idle and full throttle - except when i move throttle lever up it starts to miss like it is starving for fuel -- i have taken off the fuel filter for now to eliminate that issue - also i can just shake the tractor and it starts to miss ---- point have been chaged new fuel lines cleaned gas tank new plug
any sugestions would be great
okay finally got the walbro carb rebuild and back on the 1650 - had to change the coil and condensor had no spark must of fryed them trying to start this beast earlier sure i would of changed to a diffrent carb but hey i do not have a diffrent one
here is what is happening now - runs good idle and full throttle - except when i move throttle lever up it starts to miss like it is starving for fuel -- i have taken off the fuel filter for now to eliminate that issue - also i can just shake the tractor and it starts to miss ---- point have been chaged new fuel lines cleaned gas tank new plug
any sugestions would be great
