Archive through July 20, 2010

[mhomrighausen]

Jeff B. The 15Us are one of the simplest/easiest pumps to work on. This is the Service/Troubleshoot/Repair manual Click Here 15U Series. Take your time and work with a very clean enviroment. Be sure to prime the pump after reassembly. For optimum performance invest in some gauges and check all system pressures. Keep us posted with your progress.

Kraig M. and Dennis F. Oh man... I can still see those beautiful gold demonstrators that filled IH's yard that fall day that I went to Bowlby Music in Rock Island to pick up some trumpet and fluegelhorn supplies.

Don T. I have a friend that has a whole mess of those 15Us sitting around from Cubs that he has parted. I just don't have the time to get a bunch and check them over or rebuild them. Besides who would want a freshly rebuilt 15U amyway?

 

[dtanner]

Gerry Ide
More on that. I think when you turn the switch to start you should get a full 12 Volts and put a resistor on the run side to the coil(2 wires). Would this not work? My diesel uses a starter cyl to run the glow plugs but has no power when the switch is in the run position.The tractors that I use in winter are nice and warm in my shop and I don`t have a start issue with them lol.. Its 68 deg in there all winter lol.

 

[dtanner]

Marlin Homrighausen

(Besides who would want a freshly rebuilt 15U amyway?)



ME . lol

 

[jbaker]

ok, the reason I want to trade my ported pump faces are
the 149 is a basket case my 129 aside of a motor being repaired is in good shape

funds are low and I thought if all it takes is a cork gasket and the labor of swaping ported face and hydralics I would be good to go.

So if ive read into every thing correctly.

I just have to switch faces on the pump and should I expect any surprises??

 

[jbaker]

Marlin thanks for posting that link I will have to read thru it more, but I am still afraid of rebuilding it

 

[jelong]

Hey Dave,
Sorry I couldn't respond earlier...busy day. OK, I went through all of your recommended steps with my carb in a very methodical manner. I can squirt carb fluid though the lower small hole of the main jet needle and have good flow to the larger holes in the needle. Removed elbow and it was clear. Removed main jet, no trash in found.
I'm open for any suggestions. Thank you for your coaching.

 

[mgonitzke]

I nearly have the engine mounted in the 682. I put two crossbraces between the QL engine mounting rails, and then bolted the 1282 risers to the K321 and set that into the tractor so I could figure out where to drill the holes in the QL cradle to mount the risers.

As you can see, there's plenty of room. This should be pretty easy to work on, even with the loader attached. I can even access both bottom flywheel shroud bolts if I should need to for some reason. I then quickly splattered some black spray paint on the cradle to protect the welds.

Tomorrow I'll bolt it all together and measure for the driveshaft. The 682 one is WAY too short. Now that the tractor is close to operational, I feel like I'm finally making some progress.

 

[kide]

Don:

My 129 and AFAIK all the Delco S/G's equipped Cubs feed 12 volts to the coil all the time. We were just going to drop a standard ignition resistor inline, put a non-resistor coil in and just shunt the resistor (bypass it) when cranking with a small relay.
In a system that feeds a full 12 volts when starting and just 6 volts when running you wouldn't want both wires connected to the coil at the same time, even though the start wire is hot only during cranking, as when running, you'd back feed 6 volts to the starter solenoid coil all the time... Note I was trying to come up with a simple solution that wouldn't require changing the switch or the existing solenoid. Small relays are cheap ..

My Cubs live in a barn with no heat....

 

[mgonitzke]

Gerry-

I like this idea too...this loader tractor is going to sit in an unheated, partially exposed part of the barn and not in the garage with the other winter worker. I think it'll need all the help it can get.

 

[kide]

Matt:
The only issue I can think of is not running too low of a resistance coil so as not to burn the points but I would think an off the shelf coil and ballast resistor from something like a mid- 60's Chevy would work..

 

[aaytay]

Here is a picture of a 100 I used to own that had a ballast resistor (Chrysler brand?). It ran, but not very well, but that could have been because of some other issue the tractor had. I did not own the tractor all that long and never had much of a chance to check into it. (If you look in the lower left-hand corner of the photo, you'll see that the previous owner was no electrical-genius. LOL!)

On another note, I'm not sure if anyone is interested in this silly stuff, but I had another narrow frame "upholstered cushion seat" reupholstered by a local shop and I thought I would post up a couple pics.

Here is a scan out of a "Parts and Accessories Catalog" showing these seats.

Kraig-
Any idea when I first made the mistake of hangin' around this place? I know we talked about it via email about a year ago, but I must have forgotten. <font size="-2">(or blocked it from my memory...)</font>

 

[dross]

Jimmy, Well, Kinda makes you think it ain't fuel. A 1250's got a lot of Junk for electrical stuff so lets rule out the extra stuff. Unhook the positive battery cable and wrap it in electrical tape or something to protect from fire or sparking. Now take a pair of jumper cables and hook to the + side of the battery. Take about 6 ft. of at least 12 ga. wire and run it between the coil + and the battery + Unhook the factory wire to the + side of the coil. Touch the + jumper cable to starter + post. It should start so make sure the brakes are on. Be aware this is not a safe thing to do. See if it still dies in a couple minutes. If it doesn't you have a wireing problem. If it does die just like before then I'm out of ideas. let us know what you find and be carefull.

 

[hydroharry]

Dave R and Jimmy - I've been following this crazy run for a while problem. Aren't there some other passages in the carb that may not have been checked??? I know there is 1 or 2 in the stem where the main jet screws in. Seems to me there are a couple other passages in the main body as well. Don't know if you've checked these, and it's been so long I can't remember the recommended tool to make sure they are clear - is it a polyester paint brush bristle??

I know you're leaning toward electric now, and Jimmy already changed the coil 3 times and points twice if I recall the posts. Working back from this I'm wondering if the key switch is loosing contact from vibration??? If it doesn't die using your suggested "check the wiring" method then I'd look at jumping around the key switch to narrow it down. Easiest to reach the key switch connector wire by removing the center frame cover and reaching up into the dash tower. I think there is enough wire to pull it down to site level. I know it doesn't act like a key switch problem but those wires do carry some heat and can break down.

Kraig - Oh Keeper of the Photos and other great stuff. Thanks for the memories. YOU FOUND the white hat photo. Can't hardly see the 12oz tool. I think the pic originally had more detail so you could see the label. And I'm certain you're correct on Tom Hoffman. He was posting when I joined. If I recall he either worked for a dealer or had at the time, someplace close to Chicago. I do recall he is really a RED tractor man. I think all of his cubs were repainted RED, and just got an INTERNATIONAL decal.

Paul B and others - I seem to recall something about demonstrator units being painted white at some point. I think Jim Chabot had come across some info indicating this, but not sure if that was Cubs or not, and not sure if they were all white.

Kraig - can you search for any posts on demo units being white???

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (even tho some may look like Angels)

 

[dross]

Harry yes, His problem was at 1/2 throttle and above. I did not think the idle circiut was involved.

Harry or anybody if this "hot wire" don't tell us anything I'm out of ideas here guys.

 

[hydroharry]

Dave R - certainly does seem like a fuel starvation problem. I can't wait to hear what it finally turns out to be.

Paul W - those brackets are "factory". I can't remember the actual application but I've seen them before. May have been used on a 70/100 series or something which used a different mule drive attachment set up at the front.

Kraig - got any close up photos of the front of a mule drive bolted on a 70 or 100??

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they never came with 2 Mule Drive Team emblems)

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jeff B. Keep in touch with Donald T. and I am sure that Donald will be able through correspondence walk you through disassembly/reassembly with his pictures and knowledge. He'll be taking a lot of pictures I'm sure that will be of future assistance to everyone. Remember that using a little grease always helps to hold such things as valve plates, etc. in place. The cylinder block kits are very basic and there won't be any small parts that will fall out. Torque all bolts to industry standard reccomendations. And one more thing... since the bolts are toqued using a machine they are torqued all at once. Figure out a torque pattern and then proceed slowly.

 

[dtanner]

Marlin Homrighausen

When I put the pump back together on my 1512 Diesel I did pour hytran all over the plates to make sure I did not have a dry start. I replace all the seals and made sure I was working as clean as possible.When I got to bolting on the front cover I did not see a torque sequence and just cris crossed back and forth and brought the torque up equal as possible. I hope to hear from Frank soon as to when he will be sending me a pump so I can get my loader ready. I want all the parts here before I take it apart .I won`t have the Cub $$ this year that I planed because we have decided to pave the driveway and install a new culvert. The wife is tired of all the small rocks getting in the house when its cold and all the raking every spring to get all the rock off the lawn. I do think plowing and blowing snow will be easier. I will have the 450 attached to my 1512 D this winter and I will have my atv with plow and the 149 as back up. I think I will have snow removal down pat here this year.

 

[ljones]

Kraig,
Do you have a pic a a utility box attached to a cub o ?

 

[ccarney]

Art -

That second reupholstered seat looks great. Same shop and price?

 

[dfrisk]

H. HARRY - IH painted a bunch of letter series tractors WHITE back in 1950, think it was the new Super C mostly, and a few CUB Farmall's. For whatever reason a few MD's, (M diesel) had white primer under their red paint and some people have "Created" Demonstrator White M's because of that.

There were also Demonstator programs for the 350/450's, think it was called the "Brass Tack" program because small billboards were attached and focused attention to the features using "Brass Tacks" of course.
There was also a program for the 460/560's, but forget what it was called. IH would always have a marketing program to clear out old model FARMALL's about a year before new models were released. Things like the "Black Stripe 66-series" were done in '75, basically a DuPont overhaul to make way for the new 86-series coming in spring of '76.

Then you throw in interim programs like the "Custom" lines of 756 & 856, a tractor with fewer frills & options to compete against competitors new models. And then there were model phase-outs like the 686/Hydro 86 in either '79 or '80 before the start of 786 production. The 786 was just a slightly detuned 886 without the standard cab the 886 got, smaller standard tires, one less standard hyd. remote circuit, etc.

But when new models were released, just like the auto companies, IH tried to keep things secret, by covering the first 2+2's with canvas tarps, but it was tough to disguise the unique shape of those "Ant-Eater's" or "Snoopies" as they were called. Also same thing when the 5X88 series was released, everything was tarped. In fact, Office people like Me, who actually had reason to go out into the shop were prohibited from going into the shop for a month or two when the 5X88's were first built. My Dad who drove semi fuel transports for Growmark Industries, also known as FS, talked to another truck driver at a truck stop and actually had to TELL ME what they looked like. The driver had delivered a load of MY tires or wheels to FARMALL and spent an hour at the end of the finish assembly line watching the new tractors come off the line complete.