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Archive through July 02, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mgwin

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
3,509
Location
Reidsville, NC
displayname
Marty A. Gwin
Jeff D.,
Are you sure it's 60 ft. lbs.?
I bet it's 60 in. lbs instead!
jawdrop.gif
 
One more shot before bed...

This is how I think it should look

193348.jpg


However notice the block of wood under the mount, pull that out and I get this...

193349.jpg


nothing to support the mount except one bolt on either side of the frame. I know that the "pin" that just happens to line up with the front hole on the frame is where the top supports from the thrower body connect but should it be a longer piece that runs from one side of the frame to the other, rather than a 1.5 inch stub that is welded in place?

and the cow mocks my pain

193350.jpg
 
Harry--

I took a couple of shots of my pads, let's see if I can get them posted.

1. the 147 narrow frame, the support is apart from the pedal back and the rubber is continuous
193354.jpg


2. the 149 wide frame, the support is against the pedal back and the rubber has a cutout
193355.jpg


--Gregory
 
Gregory M - you WIN the prize. You have both units. Thanks for posting the pics for all to see the narrow frames have a block tacked on the arm that holds the plate up from the arm about 1/4" (maybe), and this allows the rubber pad to have a full underside edge. On wide frames the plate gets tacked directly to the arm and the pad has to have a cutout to fit around the arm itself.

Marty G - ok, now I got ya on the tri-color engine. Nice job, and great contrast.

Matt G - thanks for posting the pic of a QA42A drawing. It does help so Rehm can see what the pins are used for.

L. Rehm - don't be giving up yet. The operators manual may provide the info on bolting it to a 122. I believe you're close to figuring it out. Your 1st pic above shows the slotted end of the mounting bracket. I believe you'll have to put a bolt thru this slot as well as a bolt where you show one in the pic. I'll do some research to see if I can find the manual while you attempt to bolt it using the slot.

I thought Miller had bought out Pabst. Is Pabst separate again???

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes they need a little figuring to get correct)
 
Rick A. I think there may be a discussion in the Sandbox for welders. If not start one. You'll get plenty of help.
My dad was a schlitz fan.
 
L. Rehm - here's a pic from the QA42A manual. You can see where it states hitch pin. This is where you need to bolt it to your frame, along with a bolt where you currently have one. I hope I'm not wrong about using the A version on your 122. I'll e-mail you a pdf file of the manual. The bolt in the hitch pin slot doesn't necessarily have to bolt completely into the hitch pin slot. As long as it is bolted there I believe the other bolt will hold it in place. I know it's a little hard to get the nut on the inside AND the bolt can't be to long (maybe 1 or 1 and 1/2". Wish I new the size as well. Worse comes to worst, you may have to have the hitch pin slot extended (a little welding) so you can reach the holes in your frame - but I feel certain it will work as it is. I believe the arm where with the hitch pin slot on your A version is longer than the non-A version in the pic. Let us know how you make out and shot some more pics. (By the way, there is another pic in the manual I'll attach that shows a narrow frame but it has the bolt on the frame where the hitch pin slot slides onto it - you may not have the hole for this bolt).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (there just has to be a way to make them work)
193366.jpg

193367.jpg
 
Harry, in a way you have hit the nail on the head! (I have the manual, so if you have not sent it no need to.)

If you look at your second picture, with the guy, you will see from the front of the tractor 2 holes, then right under the fuel pump cover on the engine is your "hitch pin", then 2 more holes. All 3 of my 102/122 frames do not have a "hitch pin" or a hole in that location. If I slide the mount back the next hole the QA mount "rides" on the front axle. I think I'm going to give up until later in the year when others with NF's have throwers mounted. Thanks for all the help!

Not sure why my first pic is not showing but here it is again...


193370.jpg
 
Sorry Harry, I forgot to add this...Miller never bought Pabst but Pabst bought many others Schlitz, Stroh, and others. Since there is no physical Pabst brewery anymore all their labels are contract brewed and Miller has a big chunk of them at the Milwaukee plant. Parts of the old Milwaukee Pabst brewery still stand, but the complex is being renovated into offices and other uses.
 
Fuel pump cover on a K motor?? Hmmmmm.....
 
Wm Rhem, looking at 2 different manuals it seems you have a QA38/42A blower. From what I can see is that the 102/122 uses a QA38/42 <font size="-2">(no A)</font>mount. Look here and go towards the bottom for the snow throwers.
HTTP://ccmanuals.info/pdf/
 
I'm either really stupid, really confused or both (the wife would go with stupid, but that is another subject).

Allen, my understanding was that the QA36/42'A', second "A" meant that is was adjustable for either wide or narrow frames. From looking at the pictures in the manuals, I have both printed out here in front of me.

Maybe this will help describe what I'm seeing.

193374.jpg
 
Gerry I - yes that small somewhat diamond shaped cover below the air cleaner/carb on a Kohler K, is the area where "some" applications mount a fuel pump. (Maybe JD or Wheelhorse, etc).

L. Rehm - please don't give up on us. We won't be able to stand the suspense until winter!!! I had never realized what you have discovered. I've only restored 2 or 3 1x2/3 units, but I'm thinking at least one I did may have had an extra hole in the frame where later units have the hitch pin. BEFORE you go to options here (1 is drill holes in the frame where the hitch pin would be, or 2, weld extensions on the QA slot for the hitch pin) we need MORE INFO. Someone on here must have done this mounting before.

Also, I went back and checked my parts manual and the Adapter Package indicates it's to use the "A" thrower on tractors Serial no. 65458 to 400,000. There are only 4 parts in the package and none to account for this issue, so we need the serial number for your tractor.
(Rehm - under edit, lets just go with confused. Otherwise I may look stupid as well, but I am recovering from about 12 PBRs).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and hardly ever get stumped)
 
Kraig - Oh Keeper of the Photos - can you help us out here???? You must have a pic of a QA42"A" thrower attached to a 102/122/123. It just has to work (unless the serial number break is the issue).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (pictures-less in Seattle)
 
Wm Rehm, do you have QA latches under the front of your tractor, and do you have pins faceing inward on that mule drive adapter? Since its a long weekend it maybe Tuesday till there is a full staff that can tell you/us how you can proceed.
Mean while have a happy Fourth. A.
As you said it's not needed for a while, unless your gonna use it for a leaf blower !
lol.gif
 
I just finished overhauling the steering gear and noticed it badly needed a wheel alignment. But inorder to get 1/8" toe-in, I had to add 1" to the length of the tie rod. Now in order to center the steering gear between equal right and left turn radii, it looks like I should shorten the drag rod by 1/2".
Any idea how this can happen?
 
Ned, just my opinion, who cares about the toe in ?? Most of our tractors have enough slop in the steering that the 1/8" really doesnt matter. But wait for others to give you an answer.
 
Has anybody rigged a foot operated "Forward/Back" lever?
I use my 129 to tow a trailer with a 10 gal. sprayer through my small vineyard. I use one hand for the spray wand. One hand for steering and a third hand on the Forward lever to keep it moving slowly thru the rows. It ia almost more trouble then it is worth.
Any suggestions?
 
Ned - either you measured the toe-in wrong, the tractor has the wrong tie rod on it (if you actually had to add to the length of the tie rod), or something is bent, probably a steering arm. Note that 1/8" toe-in measured at the widest point of the tire shoulder to the same on the other tire, is a barely perceptible amount of toe-in. The further from the center of the wheel that you go when measuring, the less you'll get from 1/8" of toe-in. OBTW - adjust the friction block on the hydro control and it'll free up one hand. Other than that, search on "foot pedal" and "Hydro" and you should come up with something - somebody's been working on one the last few months..

Harry:
Huh, never saw that before. Funny thing is, (warning, OT) I'm looking right now for a vacuum operated small engine fuel pump for our Cushman truckster. Add on Mikuni carb sets too high in relation to the gas tank, it starves for fuel on less than 1/2 tank...
 
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