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Archive through July 02, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Ray:
I'd be looking for the rest of the keg (maybe Stroh's, Pabst or Schlitz..) Looks like the PO was a DIY'er...
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Roy J - you've got the older version with the little roll pin AND that roll pin is known to bend/break. Someone pulling to hard on the handle, etc., causes it to bend over. IH updated to the J bolt (part 4) at some point AND it fixes the problem. I don't know about the 3 inches. I just looked at my 169 which may not actually be the same, and it's closer to 2 inches, but does slide in and out a little. I looked in my parts book and the handle for the 1450 is the same part number for either dual and single controls, so you have to have the correct handle. With dual controls you add a sleeve type part. What I believe you've got here is a PO that kept breaking the little roll pin, so he fixed it and added the aluminum brace so he could NOT pull it farther than necessary to move the implement. Nice idea actually, but looks..., well you know.

(Roy - under edit - you might want to contact one of the sponsor dealers, like Scott Madson at Madson's Service to see if there is a repair kit. Seems I recall something about one, but it's not in my parts manual).

(Gerry I - under edit - I'd be looking for that "Import stuff, like Budweiser", doesn't it come from Belgium now on those bid tankers?).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but you can't keep jerking things around)
 
Hi Is it possible that the voltage regulator on a 124 could be the same type used on some older cars etc?

Next week I'm planning on going to a local wrecking yard that has a lot of older cars. My son is restoring an old muscle car and I thought I might just get lucky!

Mine is rusted and missing the black cover.

Thanks

Bill
 
<font size="+1"> IT'S ALIVE</font>

It's running in the picture
193400.jpg


I finished putting the K301 together today and dropped it in the 125. It seems to run nice although I have to adjust the governor arm( I really don't have an idle ) and check the timing with a light.

Life is good
beerchug.gif


Jeff
 
Have a problem with my 149 Hydrostatic. Been working in a cemetery resetting tombstones, cleaning, etc. and putting some 'road time' on, hauling dirt and other material to other locations about 1/2 mile one way. Never too much weight on the trailer, maybe equivalent to 6-7 moderate size wheelbarrow loadss at a time. Hydro has been working well. Thursday nite I was almost to my destination with a load of dirt and the 149 started to very gradually slow down. When I was about 40' from my destination, there was no more movement, forward or backward. I left it where it was overnight, hoping it was just low on fluid. Next day, topped it off, started it up and no change. Hauled it home and removed the fenders, etc. No loose fittings, relief valves are ok. When it starts up, the drive shaft immediately turns, even when the hydro is in neutral. The short piece that comes out of the back of the pump assembly does not turn when the drive shaft turns. Starting to look like an expensive fix. The linkages appear to be ok. I read the hydro info and looked at the pictures on this website and I fear it's not the linkage.
 
Wayne-

If the driveshaft turns but not the trans output shaft, you have a sheared spirol pin on the rear driveshaft coupler. Replace that and you're good to go. If you have a spirol pin, you'll be back to work in 5 minutes...
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Harry,

You're right about the implement arm/lever being the same part number for single and dual hydro. I didn't check that before. It does seem odd, because if you look at my PDF with the photo of the gal with the Daisy Duke short-shorts, that arm/lever is under an inch from the tower. Just like on my 149 which I have parked next to the 1450. Perhaps Daisy Duke has an early production 1450 that used a leftover 149 arm/lever.

As best I can tell from photos of the arm/lever on the Part Listing, and what I can see on my 1450 and 149, this is just a round rod. Perhaps I can simply cut off 2 inches to make the handle closer to the tower. I'll be getting one of those #4 upgraded valve levers, and will fill that square access hole in the tower. That nasty aluminum brace is already gone.
 
Don T.
You are EXACTLY RIGHT!
Regular maintenance is a GOOD THING!
beerchug.gif

And I still say Dura-Guard is the BEST oil out there.
 

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