Archive through January 30, 2011

[wchockensmith]

More weight makes the "O" go in the snow!!

 

[kshultz]

Having 582 problems.

I'm working on my niehbors 582 and he said it's not getting fuel.
I agree.
Runs on starting fluid or gas in the carb.
We replaced the "guts" of the fuel pump and nothing.
I have nearly a full tank of gas and fuel is running good up to the pump.
How does the pump work?
I know it's a diaphram, but what makes that work?

I have no manual for these Briggs.
What else can I check?

Thanks.

 

[wmakowicki]

582 fuel pump is vaccuum driven. Take a look a the hose down to block. If you haven't already opened the carb you might want to, if water is in the bowl you won't get much fuel either.

 

[pandrews]

Walter,
Is that a 42 inch spring trip blade on your O? If so are you running the lift rod outside the frame? Could you post some pics on how you attached the lift rod (both ends) and how the blade attaches to the frame??
I would really apprieciate it!
Thank you

 

[mgonitzke]

Kent-

I'd recommend cleaning/rebuilding the carb, also. Don't try without a manual...that carb is overly complex. I can rebuild a Kohler carb in 30 minutes, but that #$@! Briggs twin carb took me a couple hours.

 

[kpeaney]

Walter, what are your weights? They look real similar to one I have that is fifty pounds. Also makes a nice anvil.

KennyP

 

[rtunison]

O.K., my welding sucks.

I've practiced quite a bit on scrap and got a pretty nice bead going. However when trying to get some metal in the trunion slot I found it very difficult. Almost had a burn through at one point.

I eventually built it back up and did get metal around the whole thing. I filed and dremelled things down to dang close to spec. I know it's really ugly and I'm still considering ordering an insert from Digger or go the key stock route. Thought I'd share a pic. of the Frankenstein weld job. I did use a wet towel to keep things cool. I replaced all of the seals in that pump also. All comments or opinions welcomed.

 

[thoffman]

Rich "T",
That looks like something I welded.

Paul "A",
That doesn't look like a Original non-trip blade. The Non-trip blade lift rod goes through the frame.

 

[mgwin]

Why are there no holes in the fender of a 70/100 to mount the grote tail light bracket?

I thought they would have made the holes at the factory.
Does anyone have the factory specs for mounting this?
Thanks

 

[mhomrighausen]

Richard T. If you have a piece of brass that you could secure to the underneath of the piece that you're welding that will help. The brass will help hold the heat down and allow a resting place for the weld material to accumulate. Another is to use less amperage and perhaps a smaller rod. Put the pump on its side while laying a bead along just one side and then let it cool down and then rotate the pump for the next side. It takes some pratice to be able to lay a small bead on that small edge only it can be done. It's called patience and practice. I've heard to try a piece of copper or aluminum only I've never tried those pieces.

 

[pandrews]

Tom H,
I agree it looks to me like a later model 42 spring trip blade (not an original) I want to mount a later year spring trip to my Original so the lift rod will have to go outside the frame, as I think Walters does. I just wanted to see how I can mount it. Any help (pic's) will show me how it's done.
Thanks!

 

[rtunison]

LOL Tom.

Thank you Marlin. I will heed your advice and give it another go.

 

[kshultz]

Awe, geez-louis! I plan on replaceing all the fuel lines and vacuum line and see what that does.
Is that a good idea? I figure simple solutions first. Maybe it's sucking air from the hard lines????? Please keep the suggestions coming I will do the easy stuff first.
I know how we like pics.

Thanks!

 

[jchamberlin]

Kent Shultz - I used to have a lot of trouble with the twin cylinder B&S installed in my 782. If the valves stick open, the vacuum necessary to operate the pump isn't allowed to develop. Usually, letting it cool down was enough to get it going.

The other problem I had was the float valve kept sticking, sometimes closed, sometimes open. Open was worse, the entire crankcase would fill with fuel.

I'm assuming you've checked for fire, because I had trouble with the ignition system too.

Note: I've since switched to a Kohler M18 motor.

 

[flclark]

Richard T,

I did the same repair this week end. I made an insert from solid 1/16 inch mild steel. I cut a square hole in it, and then brazed it to the trunnion. Looks like your repair will work fine.

Frank

 

[tstewart]

Dave, thanks for the tips! When I arrived to check it over it seemed to be in really good shape. I didnt remember everything you said to look at but most of it, and everything looked good that I checked. The only thing that wasnt tight was the gearbox, but when moving the pulley while holding the shaft the pully might have rotated 1/4" or so at the surface, maybe a bit more, but not quite 1/2". Also there were two spots on the auger that were twisted/dinged up they looked minor/repairable. So I went ahead and got it. I'm at work now, but tomorrow I'll take a closer look at everything and post up some pics. It wasnt a steal I dont think, but dont see em too often and from everything I can tell it was a very solid piece. He was asking 250 I gave him just a bit less.

Now I just need a cab!
...and to get the 129 going
...and/or to get the creeper installed on my 1000

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Dave Ross (Dross) on Sunday, January 30, 2011 - 03:16 am:

Tristan, Just like everything you'd buy used, be methodical. Check all the moving parts, turn the pulley and look at that shaft, at first your looking to see if the pulley was ever loose on the shaft then your feeling for how smooth that gearbox works, moving the pulley back and forth will give you idea of idea of how much play the gearbox has. I havent done it in a while but if the play lets the outside of that pulley move more than a half inch, I'd be concerned. The tighter the better. Look at the other shaft on the gearbox and the pto shaft. grab each end and try to twist it in oposite direction to feel for worn U-joints or loose splines that connect the two halves together. Move the QT up and down to make sure the splines are at least not froze. Grease here is good, old grease tells you it's been greesed, new greese tells you he did it before you showed up. The shaft that pto shaft is hooked to is expensive so look at it, granted you can't see a lot without taking it apart. look at the tightener, it's alluminum and will show a groove if the chain was allowed to run to loose, The teeth on the small sprocket that shaft drives should be blunt,not sharp. Same with the sprocket thats on the auger. Turn the chute adjuster by hand it should be free. Look at the feet for wear, same with the wear bar underneath. it can be flipped around, has it been? Turn the auger there shouldn't be any side to side play, roll it all the way around, look at it. The flashing can separate from the center paddles, spot welds break. if it hasn't been allowed to go to long it's an easy fix, if it's allowed to go to long it can genrate spider web cracking in the thin flashing. that can be fixed but it's more involved. Thats all I can think of right now. hope you find a good one, hope you get it cheap.
Your gonna be a lot happier with that creeper installed, Hate to say it but this is one job a hydro shines, if you can get it started. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[sblunier]

582 carb:

Get a manual from you local L&G store and a complete rebuild kit...you will need them. Manual PN = 271172 (mine is dated 4/99). With the manual it isn't too bad of a job, but sometimes requires 3 hands! Be very careful of the little springs and the fuel pump diaphragms and watch how they go together.

 

[aschumacher]

MARTY G. I think Kraig showed an install sheet for thr Grote lites a while back. Guess you will have to wait till tomorrow for him. Meanwhile, do a search on 'grote lights'...28 listings...maybe something there you can find tonight.

 

[digger]

Marty G.
It's in the Manuals section under Options.
I know, cause I just converted it to PDF and loaded it up.

 

[mgwin]

Charlie,
THANKS!

Am I correct in saying the grote light bracket is to be mounted to the seat spring support? If this is so, that would explain why there are no holes in the fender.