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Archive through January 27, 2016
- Thread starter dschwandt
- Start date
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lpalma
Well-known member
Mike Patterson
when you mounted the 450 blower to your 782,was the 782 an IH one?I know the CCC ones have holes in the frame for the dowel pins,but the IH ones do not.
Did you use just the QA to mount it,or did you drill holes in the frame?
when you mounted the 450 blower to your 782,was the 782 an IH one?I know the CCC ones have holes in the frame for the dowel pins,but the IH ones do not.
Did you use just the QA to mount it,or did you drill holes in the frame?
Question about Re-assembly. TOMCAT will be getting new Grade#8 bolts for all the sheet metal. You grey-beards to use Locktite'Blue', Anti-seize dope or dabs of grease on little bolt threads? Also, how about on the Rear-end cover bolts and Tie-rods etc.etc.?? Locomotiveman Tom
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Tom Choo Choo S - I'm apparently not a grey-beard but I think you're over doing it changing to all Grade 8 bolts, and using Loctite or a lubricant.
First off, many of the bolts are non-standard lengths and finding them in Grade 8 may be tough,and I wouldn't use other lengths.
2ndly, your TOMCAT 149 should have "WP" stamped markings on the heads of almost all the bolts (or maybe even IH stamped if it's an early production unit). The WP stamping is for the IH plant at West Pullman, IL where they were made. If you look at the bottom section of page VI (yes it's marked VI) of your 149 Service Manual you'll see the Bolt Type ID Chart and grade markings for the WP bolts. I think you'll find most of the bolts it was built with will be Grade 5 and have the WP stamped heads. IH switched from the IH stamped bolts to the WP stamping sometime during the production of the 1x8/9 wide frame series tractors. I don't know exact date but I have not seen any 1x8/9 tractors with IH bolts either.
I recommend finding a method to clean up the original bolts. If you can't re-use some then get exact size replacements of the same Grade. And if you're like me and I can't re-use the bolt then I find the exact original IH or WP bolt from another tractor. It reminds me of something CCC says today -
"Use the stuff it was born with".
David S - did you ship me my satin black gas tank yet?
First off, many of the bolts are non-standard lengths and finding them in Grade 8 may be tough,and I wouldn't use other lengths.
2ndly, your TOMCAT 149 should have "WP" stamped markings on the heads of almost all the bolts (or maybe even IH stamped if it's an early production unit). The WP stamping is for the IH plant at West Pullman, IL where they were made. If you look at the bottom section of page VI (yes it's marked VI) of your 149 Service Manual you'll see the Bolt Type ID Chart and grade markings for the WP bolts. I think you'll find most of the bolts it was built with will be Grade 5 and have the WP stamped heads. IH switched from the IH stamped bolts to the WP stamping sometime during the production of the 1x8/9 wide frame series tractors. I don't know exact date but I have not seen any 1x8/9 tractors with IH bolts either.
I recommend finding a method to clean up the original bolts. If you can't re-use some then get exact size replacements of the same Grade. And if you're like me and I can't re-use the bolt then I find the exact original IH or WP bolt from another tractor. It reminds me of something CCC says today -
"Use the stuff it was born with".
David S - did you ship me my satin black gas tank yet?
Tom-
I used to use loctite 262 in liquid form, but I've now gone to the stick version. Less messy than a ruptured bottle. Haven't needed heat to "unlock" them yet. It does nicely against corrosion as well. As far as torque, I think I did somewhere between 25 and 32 ft-lbs on the rear cover. The service manual does have a general guideline according to the grade and size of capscrew if I recall correctly.
I shy away from Grade 8's as they'll usually pull threads before any sign of failure; at least a grade 5 will usually work within it's limits and show evidence of near-failure before irreversible damage and Helicoil-ing ensues.
I don't even bother to clean my bolts. I have a local plating establishment re-plate my bolts. Their pre-wash solution is enough to strip off most any paint. IH switched headstamps in the xx6/xx7 production... that being said you'll still find many carriage bolts and some miscellaneous small fasteners with IH stamps later into the wideframes.
I used to use loctite 262 in liquid form, but I've now gone to the stick version. Less messy than a ruptured bottle. Haven't needed heat to "unlock" them yet. It does nicely against corrosion as well. As far as torque, I think I did somewhere between 25 and 32 ft-lbs on the rear cover. The service manual does have a general guideline according to the grade and size of capscrew if I recall correctly.
I shy away from Grade 8's as they'll usually pull threads before any sign of failure; at least a grade 5 will usually work within it's limits and show evidence of near-failure before irreversible damage and Helicoil-ing ensues.
I don't even bother to clean my bolts. I have a local plating establishment re-plate my bolts. Their pre-wash solution is enough to strip off most any paint. IH switched headstamps in the xx6/xx7 production... that being said you'll still find many carriage bolts and some miscellaneous small fasteners with IH stamps later into the wideframes.
The reason I mention new Bolts & thread lube etc. is that it appears it's been a mish-mash from previous owner. Some are junk..some are original WP, so I'm gonna start fresh as needed. I chased most threads, none are stripped. Grade #8's cost me $5/bucks today, Grade #2's woulda cost me $3. Yes, I confess, my 20/ton jack is barely hangin' in there, but my 100/ton Hein-Warner is busy under a Kenworth. Another question: Should I repaint the Plastic Grill on TOMCAT...and what to do with the IH logo's faded Red? Locomotiveman Tom
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Tom - I like to paint the black plastic grill with a nice satin black to give it a fresh look. Hopefully yours isn't warped from heat do to a leaky muffler.
Now, about the IH emblem on the grill insert. Sounds like you may have an original thin metal version. If you do I would definitely try to restore it. You may find it's nearly ready to fall off (it's only glued on). If it is I'd be really really careful attempting to remove it since the thin metal will easily bend. I've been pretty successful masking and painting the original colors and retaining the original circled R registered trade-mark symbol. It's nearly impossible to find the original metal NOS replacements, and if you do they are really pricey. You can find it as a decal but it's not the real deal. It's to glossy and easily identified as being a replacement decal.
Now, about the IH emblem on the grill insert. Sounds like you may have an original thin metal version. If you do I would definitely try to restore it. You may find it's nearly ready to fall off (it's only glued on). If it is I'd be really really careful attempting to remove it since the thin metal will easily bend. I've been pretty successful masking and painting the original colors and retaining the original circled R registered trade-mark symbol. It's nearly impossible to find the original metal NOS replacements, and if you do they are really pricey. You can find it as a decal but it's not the real deal. It's to glossy and easily identified as being a replacement decal.
J
jclazar
Guest
Tom, you know I found the same hodge-podge of capscrews on my 1450. I done like Hydro Harry,.... Use only WP monogram capscrew hardware. You think about how long IH has been producing machinery, its fair to say that the high carbon steel WP capscrews are the best for your 149. See what it says below, !
