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Archive through January 25, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Neal - that thick spacer is to insulate at some degree the carb from the hot engine. You need it.
 
John - werks fer me ... but I don't own anything green ... I just threw away a lot of money cause it was green.
 
Neal: I'm no expert but every time mine displayed starting trouble I traced it to one of a small handful of causes, number one on that list was a weak battery. Mine will not start with a lame battery without starting fluid and even then it's dicey. It will turn over pretty decent but when I hook up the jumper cables it acted like that guy's car in the Dodge Nitro commercial. I deduced that the coil needs to see optimal voltage in order to make firepower. It can't make up for a low voltage feed because it doesn't have some doodad in the circuit that can trade in amperage for voltage. At least I think that is what is going on.

Next on the list is timing - the point gap is important and sensitive to error (at least on my KT17 engine). Next is carb adjustment but unless something has happened to push it OUT of adjustment, that probably is low on the list. That said, having it correct is important. Next is plug wires and plug. Next is fresh gas - and fresh to me is within a month or two. Next is God. Sometimes I am convinced that after creating the universe in six days, me and my tractor are the only entertainment He has left.
 
Neal
building on what bruce said,

in the cold with a hydro, you need to run synthetic so the engine will crank.... works wonders... Run the largest battery you can get, and if possible, upgrade the cable size..... A few of the guys run magnetic heaters on the bottom of the rear end to heat up the hytran...... a good potion of the starting torque goes into pumping the thick fluids..... JMHO, YMMV, just my $0.02
 
Lee E:

Here is your picture "enhanced"

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Here is a Wiring Diagram for your Cub...

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Wire the new Voltage Regulator per the Diagram and DO NOT use the "L" terminal. Insulate from accidental grounding.

The Voltage Regulator <u>has to be grounded</u>.

This should put you back in business, provided your Starter/Generator is functioning correctly.

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And Welcome to the forum..!!!
 
<font color="0000ff">DON'T DO THIS!</font> A DC welder makes a great booster too ;)
 
It's snowing here in MD! Maybe it will snow enough I can fire up the QA42A
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Ryan - thanks much. I don't have wheel weights - I wish I did but have not run across any I could buy.

It was built in December, 1980, according to the info I could find. My brother's father-in-law just brought it over to his house one day and gave it to him brand new. A few months later, he brought the QA-42 over. My brother didn't like it - took up too much space in his garage so I bought it. Actually, I recall I bought it in 1988 for $1200. He didn't take the best of care - when I got it, I drained the oil and it looked like sludge and, I'm sad to report, there wasn't much of it. However, it is still making good power so I must have caught it in time.
 
Ryan... about how much weight do I need to add to the rear to keep the wheels from spinning
 
I finaly figuerd out how to patch my dash, thanks again guys, but how do I get my battery box bottom rebuilt... ( think I need a new fender pan, but I don't want to pay for one, so I guess I'll break out the bondo...)
AND
Has anyone made a discharge chute for a 42U type deck (I want one so grass clippings don't cover me when the wind blows hard...)
 
Thanks Kraig and Roland, just what I needed to know.

"provided your Starter/Generator is functioning correctly."

No such luck, I had a bad field coil. But all's well with the rebuild S/G. The old regulator was sticking a bit, but was fixed by dressing the contacts.

The regulator had been repositioned to make way for a hydraulic reservoir. It was mounted on some floppy sheet metal brackets. You might find the linked video amusing.

Wiggling Regulator

Lee
 
The LONG AWAITED announcement for Spring Plow Day is here!

It will be at the Travis Schweizer farm north of Rockford, Iowa 50468 on APRIL 14th with NO RAIN DATE!
It's going to be the 14th or nothing!

ALL makes & model garden tractors welcomed.

We're planning on doing a few more things/events than are normally done, so plan on having a great day that you will remember for a long time.

Stay tuned to plowday.net in the next week or so for updates and other information regarding the event.}
 
Bondo alone ain't gonna save you if the bottom of your battery box is rusted through. If it isn't completely rusted through, I would wire brush the heck out of it, and apply several coats of something like Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, and keep the coating up. If its rusted through on the bottom, I would get some heavy gauge sheet metal and bend it up into the shape you need, and weld, bolt, or rivet it into place. As a witness to and a veteran of a few temporary rust repairs to 1960s and 1970s rust bucket cars when I was your age, I know that Bondo will crack and bubble up eventually, usually sooner rather than later, especially if it gets any strain on it. Think about that battery as a 25 pound weight just bouncing up and down on your bondo work, and what it will do over time.
 
well i had to shovel the snow in a straight line to get enuf for the blower but it works!
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Jeff B.
OMG, that's funny man!
I thought I was the only one that resorted to doing that!
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Mike F.
Great lookin setup you have there. Gotta love those 59M's.
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What parts, other than the tiller, do I need to fit a 1A tiller to a 1650? Do I disconnect the mower deck carriage from the mule drive and use it or is there a different mule drive that is used for the tiller?
 
Craig E. and Jeff B. - Great looking snow equipment.

Charlie - Yeah, the 59M is pretty therapeutic the way it makes quick work of a huge pile of twigs. There's hydro therapy and now shredder therapy. I guess I have both.}
 
I found a guy who has a 122 that's not running. I need a front axle for a 149 and I'm wondering will the front axle on the 122 fit on the 149. I think his asking price of $75 is too high for the shape it's in, but if the parts are interchangeable it might be worth buying. Also my 1650 has sat at my brother-in-laws for a year and now it won't run. I intend to change the spark plug, put in fresh gas, and take some battery cables. Hopefully that'll get it going. The moral of the story- Don't loan out IH Cub Cadets.
 
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