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Archive through January 25, 2007
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
NICE! A big
to you KENtucky
I got some great pics in the mail today from Bruce Ritch that he wanted me to share with everyone.
He's quite the artist when it comes to modifying old Cubs.
I can't wait to see his Groundsaw when he gets done with it.
He's quite the artist when it comes to modifying old Cubs.
I can't wait to see his Groundsaw when he gets done with it.
Bruce Ritch, nice job on the custom Cubs!
Charlie, thanks for posting those. I think they should also go into the "Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! !" thread.
How do we get the new <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> thumbs up into the clipart?
Charlie, thanks for posting those. I think they should also go into the "Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! !" thread.
How do we get the new <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> thumbs up into the clipart?
Just my two cents worth but this list is full of shorthand like: LOL, WTH, WOT, 1x9, hyd., not to mention WF, NF, BFH, GBFH, puter, and many others. IMHO, it's also chock-a-block with off-topic posts that have me ROTFLMAO. It's a large world - that is what makes it interesting.
Craig, I'm about as guilty as anyone when it comes to off topic posts.
ljerickson
Well-known member
I purchased a Cub Cadet 122 back in November. The charging circuit was not working at the time. The previous owner had ordered a voltage regulator and handed over to me when it arrived.
The terminals on the side of this unit are marked F, BAT, and L. Underneath, the regulator there is another terminal that is unmarked.
There is continuity between the L and BAT terminals, so the L terminal is not the same as the GEN terminal which is required on the CC 122.
Since the resistance from the unmarked terminal to ground on this part is the same as the resistance from the GEN terminal to ground on the old part, I suspect that this is the GEN terminal.
The box label indicates that this is Stens part# 435-040. Is this the correct part? If it is, how should it be wired?
Here's a picture showing the terminal marking:
\image {terminals top}
Here's a picture showing the bottom:
\image {terminals bottom}
Here's a picture of the Stens label:
\image {Stens label}:
I was able to get the old voltage regulator by dressing the contacts. However, it would be nice to get some use out this new one, as they don't appear to be real cheap.
Thanks,
Lee
The terminals on the side of this unit are marked F, BAT, and L. Underneath, the regulator there is another terminal that is unmarked.
There is continuity between the L and BAT terminals, so the L terminal is not the same as the GEN terminal which is required on the CC 122.
Since the resistance from the unmarked terminal to ground on this part is the same as the resistance from the GEN terminal to ground on the old part, I suspect that this is the GEN terminal.
The box label indicates that this is Stens part# 435-040. Is this the correct part? If it is, how should it be wired?
Here's a picture showing the terminal marking:
\image {terminals top}
Here's a picture showing the bottom:
\image {terminals bottom}
Here's a picture of the Stens label:
\image {Stens label}:
I was able to get the old voltage regulator by dressing the contacts. However, it would be nice to get some use out this new one, as they don't appear to be real cheap.
Thanks,
Lee
Bob F., regarding your 12:14pm post:
I'll "step into the opinion firing range" and say that most of the time it's due to wheel spin causing the chains to dig on the concrete (if folks use enough added weight, the wheels are less likely to spin).
If the wheels aren't spinning and you have blade skids then it is likely the skids. A friend of mine fastened (somehow) pieces of 1/4" thick nylon or teflon sheeting onto the bottom of his skids.... no more skid scratches!
Ryan W
I'll "step into the opinion firing range" and say that most of the time it's due to wheel spin causing the chains to dig on the concrete (if folks use enough added weight, the wheels are less likely to spin).
If the wheels aren't spinning and you have blade skids then it is likely the skids. A friend of mine fastened (somehow) pieces of 1/4" thick nylon or teflon sheeting onto the bottom of his skids.... no more skid scratches!
Ryan W
ljerickson
Well-known member
Oh dang! Looks like I don't know how add pictures. Well, Here's one:
Here's another:
And the other one:
Let's hope this works! #8^)
Thanks again,
Lee
Here's another:
And the other one:
Let's hope this works! #8^)
Thanks again,
Lee
OK, just finished the driveway - the only snow we've received this year worth firing up the 782 for so I thought I'd post some pics. Here's my tractor with blower - I've owned it since, shoot, probably 1990. Bought it from my brother. He received it as a gift from his father-in-law, who owned the IH dealership in Croswell, Michigan. A GIFT, if you can imagine that. And then there's a picture of my own strikingly handsome self...
Lee, perhaps this will help.
Hmmmm, after a second look it might be that you have a different animal.
Perhaps Roland will see your post and chime in he's the one that made the drawing above.
Hmmmm, after a second look it might be that you have a different animal.
Perhaps Roland will see your post and chime in he's the one that made the drawing above.
ljerickson
Well-known member
Thanks Kraig, I think that explains it. Looks like the new one is for an OCC. I'll try to figure it out from there.
In the meantime, if someone could point to a wiring diagram for the OCC, I'd much appreciate it!
Lee
In the meantime, if someone could point to a wiring diagram for the OCC, I'd much appreciate it!
Lee
I'm having a problem with my cub starting very,very hard. It's a 147, I've replaced the points and condenser,coil, battery cables,and battery. I've adjusted the carb but it just seems to turn over very slow and barely hits at all. I had a new piston,rings installed and the head planed flat in 2005 and it started very easily after that but now it's gotten more and more to where it's hit and miss wether it'll start or not. Not very good for cold weather when I want to plow my driveway. Also related to this same line...how much of a gasket is needed between the carb and the block? when I first got it it seemed like there was a 1/2 inch spacer that the carb was mounted on but it barely ran at all. I removed the carb cleaned and adjusted it and put it back on with just the gasket and it ran fine...keep in mind that was probably 6 years ago. Thanks for your help
Neal
Neal
Got a quick question about a mower deck guys:
I'm looking at a 48" mower deck that's similar to the 48" deck on my 129, but it is the older design that uses the spindles with the tapered roller bearings and races, rather than the single piece bearing assembly. The pulleys and spindles look good, but the deck has some rust issues, so I'm primarily looking at it as a parts deck. Are the spindle assemblies interchangeable between the two decks, or are there other issues involved?
The deck is off a 124, and according to the parts database, it could come with either type of spindle. I suspect they will work, but I would like to be sure before I hand over the money.
I'm looking at a 48" mower deck that's similar to the 48" deck on my 129, but it is the older design that uses the spindles with the tapered roller bearings and races, rather than the single piece bearing assembly. The pulleys and spindles look good, but the deck has some rust issues, so I'm primarily looking at it as a parts deck. Are the spindle assemblies interchangeable between the two decks, or are there other issues involved?
The deck is off a 124, and according to the parts database, it could come with either type of spindle. I suspect they will work, but I would like to be sure before I hand over the money.
Neal,
If the starter isn't giving enough oomph, you probably have an electrical problem. The first thing I would do is to make sure the generator frame is well bonded to the engine, the engine to the frame, and the negative battery cable to the frame as well. If this doesn't help, I'd pull the generator and clean up the commutator, and put in a new set of brushes if they are badly worn, and lubricate the bearings or bushings. If ya got it cranking good and it still is hard to get going, check the points again to make sure the gap is set to .020.
If she still is hard to start, try spraying some starting fluid into the carb throat while cranking and see if it makes a difference. If it does, then something in the carb is probably out of whack, perhaps the float is set too low, or a jet just got clogged up for some reason.
Your Neutral isn't misadjusted on the Hydro, causing it to load things down or anything like that is it?
If the starter isn't giving enough oomph, you probably have an electrical problem. The first thing I would do is to make sure the generator frame is well bonded to the engine, the engine to the frame, and the negative battery cable to the frame as well. If this doesn't help, I'd pull the generator and clean up the commutator, and put in a new set of brushes if they are badly worn, and lubricate the bearings or bushings. If ya got it cranking good and it still is hard to get going, check the points again to make sure the gap is set to .020.
If she still is hard to start, try spraying some starting fluid into the carb throat while cranking and see if it makes a difference. If it does, then something in the carb is probably out of whack, perhaps the float is set too low, or a jet just got clogged up for some reason.
Your Neutral isn't misadjusted on the Hydro, causing it to load things down or anything like that is it?
