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Archive through January 23, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Anthony,
Are ya talkin to yourself again?
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Ya know, I was always told that if you add duals, it makes ya float more, So my question is, how would flotation help ya get pulling traction, (Unless you are in a swamp...
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)
Thanks for the help with the BONDO, and the fiberglass, I will have to implement them this spring, and see how they work.
 
Glen,
Duals will help you float on soft ground, however if you need more traction and do not have weights to add, more tire surface on the ground will increase your traction, but to much tire surface is just as bad. There is a fine line in there some place.
I know this only because I run duals in the spring when the ground is soft and us a dual on the landside of the tractor when plowing my garden.
 
Duals can help on loose surfaces, where a narrow tire wants to dig in and make a hole. Wider tires and duals have a larger contact patch, which provides more places to grip. It isn't so important on a good traction surface though. Tri-Ribs help provide lateral traction, deliberately digging a groove in soft ground to prevent side-slipping.

Larger diameter tires, such as the ones on big tractors have better traction than smaller ones for much the same reason. Their larger contact patch is less likely to dig in too much, and if they dig in at all, the contact patch gets bigger, so it is less likely to want to dig in up to the axles than smaller diameter tires.

The tires on my 129 are twice as wide as the ones on the 102, I will let you know how they work if we ever get some snow to play around in.
 
Glen,
Having fixed a broken out area on the dash tower on the 129, a couple of bits of advice about working with Bondo and Fiberglass cloth/resin. Wear rubber gloves if you don't want to be picking cured pieces of plastic from your hands for the next week, and wear clothes that you will never wear in public again, for they will be ruined if you get the stuff on them.

Secondly, it takes a lot of patience to do the finish sanding work to make it look good. Take your time and be prepared to lay down a skim coat to fill in the voids and gouges from the cloth layup and base layer of Bondo. Here is a link to a writeup I did on the subject at Everything2.com a while back.
"http://www.everything2.com/index.pl?node_id=1705630&lastnode_id=124">
 
Hi Guys,
I'm looking for parts for my new 147. Can anyone post a pic of the correct seat for this model? Thanks!
 
Anthony - it may say <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

It says if you need more pulling power then get dual tires. So if the factory says that then it must be ok!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote> but that's not true by a long shot. Truthfully all it gives you is better floation. By increasing the width of ground coverage you decrease the amount of contact pressure. The only way to get more traction would be to add a whole lot more weight.

Let's hear the arguements ...

Glen - I see you're posting that too, but I'll leave mine too ;)

Well it seems to be popular !

Bruce - finally something besides duals ;) Rubber gloves will disolve from the resin and / or the Acetone. Acetone for sure. I fast skimmed your write up and see no mention of using a roller to work out the air bubbles / pockets. I didn't see a mention of acetone either. Seems you left out any info on the "halo" that you'll get when repairing a gel coated piece.
 
Ken and all the others:
Thanks for reminding me about the frailties of latex gloves when using strong solvents. As I said in my E2 writeup, Nitrile gloves are the way to go. I just missed being able to edit my last post
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Bob F.
Yes, dual tires on the rear end of a CC puts more stress on the drive train, but no worries, the factory knew it could take it. There are many here who can attest to years of reliable heavy duty work from an IH CC.
 
Bruce - I looked back over it better and you DID mention acetone
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I use to build fiberglas boat molds, that's where I totally screwed up my back in '86 rolling over a 28 footer by myself by hand.
 
Ken,
I did mention prominently in my E2 w/u that Acetone and Methylene Chloride are about the only thing you can use to clean it up. As for using a roller to work out air bubbles, I have found that it does work to help smooth things out, but as the resin starts to thicken, a paint roller can actually start to lift the cloth already laid up, particularly if it is an uncured layer where its bridging a gap. I usually have problems when I'm trying to fix a sag or something of that nature, and it starts curing up on me.

It just plain takes practice, and some things you can't easily explain.
 
I used to have a 17' MFG outboard runabout when I lived near the bay, but it had a rotten transom core. We made a new one by laminating 3 sheets of marine plywood, and bowing them while they set up in the clamps. After cutting the old outer skin off with a router and cleaning out the mulch, I fastened the new core to the inner transom skin and contour sanded it to match the rest of the hull. I then laid up about 6 or 8 layers of cloth, with 3 or 4 extra layers around the motor mounts I poured Polyester Resin into the gap between the wood and the inner transom skin, and capped the wood across the top with a couple of layers of cloth, then sanded, filled, sanded again, and painted it all with gel-coat. I ran the boat another 5 years without any hull problems.

I believe the halo you are talking about is the thin layer of paraffin that seals the gel coat as it cures. It should be simple enough to remove with mineral spirits or the like, I had to do quite a bit of sanding to mine to make it look presentable, so I didn't even notice it.
 
Bruce - try and find Methylene Chloride for the public. I'd buy a few gallons! OKAY green horn I got ya ;) You DON'T use a paint roller ! The roller looks like a stack of 2 different sizes of washer on a rod with a handle. ie... big/small/big/small... I make my own at home since I didn't swipe any from work.
 
I used to use Methylene Chloride at work, so I am pretty familiar with the stuff. I can't think of any commercial proprietary solvent that has it as its main ingredient, but I have seen it listed on some types of contact cement and the like. Pretty nasty stuff though, and Acetone ain't much better. Got a picture of your roller? Email it to me off-forum sometime.
 
Charlie - we need this moved to the body shop I guess...

Bruce - no that's not what causes the halo. You can wet sand it with 600 and it wont leave. It's just the nature of the beast. I tried for days to find a way to repair flake without leaving the halo. My boss told me it couldn't be done BUT if I could do it I could name my price and work in any glas sjop I wanted. I've forgot the name now but he use to work (at that time) the biggest known custom glas shop in the US.
 
Well i have been told is, Yes the duals help with flotation but only on something like this
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And the reason was to not compact the soil.

Now when you you are pulling too much for the tractor and you set a extra tire on sometimes off set so you technicaly make the tractor wider. right?



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This is what i disagree with.

If you want good flotation you would use the top tractor (cornbinder) Because the tires them self are wide.

Now when you want floatation with a tractor like this
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the front wheels have all the engine weight on them. SO they them selves are compacting the soil.

I know i may not make sense, And i have talked to my farm power coach about this and i out did him on this. He knew what i was saying but had never thought about it that way. U guess thats y im the captian of the team = ]

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Kentuck,
It should have never grown to the point of having to be moved.
But after tomorrow, I'm gonna be watching closer than I did today.
Please try to use this topic for discussion about IH Garden Tractors built prior to 1981.

I realize that's it's hard to stay on topic and I'm as guilty as anyone else. BUT, it seems to be the norm these days to see how far to push ole Charlie cause he's not settin here watchin all day.
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Bruce - hafta make another one for ya, I threw the last one away since I didn't get real clean the last few times. Methylene Chloride would have cleaned it! That stuff will eat anything not stone or steel! Some jerk left 2 inches of resin in a paint pot and it hardened, we dumped in some Methylene Chloride and let it sit over the week end and poured it out and wiped it clean monday. Looked brand new. Mr. Gasket gasket remover spary use to have it in it but EPA made them take it out. I looked all over town once for some so I could clean an aluminum oil pan to weld. I've seen some gasket remover last year that still had it. I took home some Methylene Chloride in a bottle once to clean an old paint gun someone gave me. I had it in the kitchen sink with hot water running. DON'T get it warmed up!! I picked my butt up off the floor after I breathed the fumes that I could see rising.

Man Charlie's gonna kill me ... Public WARNING Service Announcement ... think that covered me ?
 
Ok so the more i think about this. It would really work either way. There is so much that can go into this.......ill just drop it before i pass out thinkin about this so hard lol = P
 
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